Conejoracer
Full Access Member
Has anyone did this at the dealer? If so, how much did they charge?
My dealer charged $300.
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Has anyone did this at the dealer? If so, how much did they charge?
My dealer charged $300.
Getting the plug out or putting the new one in?
This was the most difficult and hard to see, but you can see the plug through the wheelwell. I used one of these with different extensions. You just have to be patient and get the right angle.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gearwren...62377&wl11=online&wl12=28650948&wl13=&veh=sem
Has anyone did this at the dealer? If so, how much did they charge?
I can see the plug through the wheel well but can't even get a socket on it to take it off. I have tried extensions with different pivot adapters. I will check out the Walmart piece as well. The dealer wanted $480 to do the whole job and that was their "good deal".
I can see the plug through the wheel well but can't even get a socket on it to take it off. I have tried extensions with different pivot adapters. I will check out the Walmart piece as well. The dealer wanted $480 to do the whole job and that was their "good deal".
This is what you need. Made it a breeze. Just did my plugs recently and had no issues whatsoever.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
Are you stock, power-wise?Changed my spark plugs this weekend, that Gear Wrench swivel socket is ****. Used that with a 6" extension and got all the top plugs, added a 3" extension and reached all the bottom plugs. Took 4 hours at a leisurely pace. A few notes:
As stated pull off the intake for the top 8 plugs; mine's stock so 8mm socket on hose clamp at airbox cover and hose clamp on throttle body, then 10mm on the two bolts at the front of the resonator, two vacuum lines on the driver's side and a plastic hanger bracket for heater hoses on the passenger side. I used a 90° pick to disengage the connector lock on the coil packs, if you look at the red locking tab, the opposite side of the connector you can see where the red plastic ends; place the pick below the red part and pull the red tab (once the red lock is released you can push the top black part of the connector to release the whole connector from the coil pack...not easy to describe). 8mm socket again on the coil packs.
I removed one wheel at a time for the lower 8 plugs. Stock Ford lugnuts blow donkey balls. Had to drive a 7/8" socket on one lug that decided to be a bitch. Could easily see all the plugs and could pull the boots off (don't yank the wire or it might pull right out of the boot). Only the front two on the passenger side were almost impossible to get the boots off, so I used a loop in a small rope to lasso them, again around the boot, and pull them free.
I ran NGK 6509 plugs, gapped to around 0.044" (they came out of the box 0.040" and in hindsight I probably could have saved like an hour ******* with the gap tool and just put them in the way they were, but oh well). I also used Permatex nickel anti-sieze on the threads (very small amount, the tube is tiny):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJOEAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also I used some dielectric grease on both ends of the spark plug boots, and the coil pack where it goes onto the spark plug.
Are you stock, power-wise?
If so, why those plugs?