Clear Undercoat

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Yukon Joe

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Just a quick update. I still have the three test metal pieces sitting out in the elements and below is a pic of what they look like today, several months after first coating them. From left to right they are ACF-50, LPS3 and AMSOIL.

TEST_METAL.jpg
You don't happen to have these test plates do you? Just wondering....

@Yukon Joe :baby: :baby:
www.runraptorrun.com
 

Kabanstva

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Firstly, I would like to say a huge thank you to Mike Hammer for making this great experiment. This has helped me in my decision tremendously and I am sure others feel the same. This contribution is greatly appreciated.

RIP my friend.

Can someone chime in on a few questions I still have,

1. I know this was briefly touched on in some of the last posts on this thread, but on an older truck with WAY more than 6,000 miles that has seen a few (4 to be exact) "salt belt" winters and has a decent amount of surface rust underneath, can you still use the Amsoil MPHD on top of the surface rust?

I know Fluid Film very openly states that their product can be used on an already rusted surface and will penetrate the metal and prevent (or slow down) the rust from developing any further. Does the MPHD also work in the same fashion?

2. My other question, if I coat my entire truck with the MPHD and let it cure for a week or so, can I still use Fluid Film over the Amsoil as a top coat without harming the MPHD coating? I assume it should be fine as FF has no solvents and is okay to spray over other painted surfaces and the factory e-coating.

I have a spray gun and a few gallons of the Fluid Film already and have used it several times in the past (on different vehicles) and like that you can use the spray gun with extension wands that have a 360 degree spray pattern and really get into some crevices that you'd never reach with an aerosol can (ie. inside the frame rails and various body/underbody cavities).

Can someone confirm that applying Fluid Film over MPHD is okay to do?

How about the other way around, MPHD over Fluid Film (if I ever want to touch up an area with MPHD)?

Thank you guys and God bless!
 

Chris@FreedomMotorsports

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Firstly, I would like to say a huge thank you to Mike Hammer for making this great experiment. This has helped me in my decision tremendously and I am sure others feel the same. This contribution is greatly appreciated.

RIP my friend.

Can someone chime in on a few questions I still have,

1. I know this was briefly touched on in some of the last posts on this thread, but on an older truck with WAY more than 6,000 miles that has seen a few (4 to be exact) "salt belt" winters and has a decent amount of surface rust underneath, can you still use the Amsoil MPHD on top of the surface rust?

I know Fluid Film very openly states that their product can be used on an already rusted surface and will penetrate the metal and prevent (or slow down) the rust from developing any further. Does the MPHD also work in the same fashion?

2. My other question, if I coat my entire truck with the MPHD and let it cure for a week or so, can I still use Fluid Film over the Amsoil as a top coat without harming the MPHD coating? I assume it should be fine as FF has no solvents and is okay to spray over other painted surfaces and the factory e-coating.

I have a spray gun and a few gallons of the Fluid Film already and have used it several times in the past (on different vehicles) and like that you can use the spray gun with extension wands that have a 360 degree spray pattern and really get into some crevices that you'd never reach with an aerosol can (ie. inside the frame rails and various body/underbody cavities).

Can someone confirm that applying Fluid Film over MPHD is okay to do?

How about the other way around, MPHD over Fluid Film (if I ever want to touch up an area with MPHD)?

Thank you guys and God bless!

I am not sure about applying one product over the other, either way. Both are designed to be applied directly to metal, so it may not work in that way. As for being able to apply MPHD over already rusty metal, it depends on the level of rust. It can be applied over some basic surface rust without issue, but if the rust is extensive, it would be best to hit it all with a wire wheel to get rid of the flaky/loose rust and then apply a product called POR15. It will bond to the metal and the rust and permanently seal the metal. It can be applied with a brush and/or thinned and applied with a spray gun in the same fashion as you mentioned for the Fluid Film. I do know that you CAN apply MPHD over top of the POR15 for added protection so I assume you could do the same with the fluid film. But the POR15 is specifically designed to be applied to metal with age and rust on it without removing all the rust as it bonds to the rust too.
 

BAJA1K

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I have used both products as well on my undercarriage. In my opinion I like the fluid film better because its clear. The Amsoil product seemed to leave a brownish /yellow cast to everything. Its more noticeable on the shocks which I had to wipe down in the spring to get the brownish/yellow cast off them. But they both to the job well.
 

Kabanstva

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I am not sure about applying one product over the other, either way. Both are designed to be applied directly to metal, so it may not work in that way. As for being able to apply MPHD over already rusty metal, it depends on the level of rust. It can be applied over some basic surface rust without issue, but if the rust is extensive, it would be best to hit it all with a wire wheel to get rid of the flaky/loose rust and then apply a product called POR15. It will bond to the metal and the rust and permanently seal the metal. It can be applied with a brush and/or thinned and applied with a spray gun in the same fashion as you mentioned for the Fluid Film. I do know that you CAN apply MPHD over top of the POR15 for added protection so I assume you could do the same with the fluid film. But the POR15 is specifically designed to be applied to metal with age and rust on it without removing all the rust as it bonds to the rust too.

Thanks for the reply. I have used POR15 in the past but really do not want to mess with it on this truck because it's such a pain and time consuming product to work with, not to mention messy and you have to get everything prepped perfectly for the stuff to truly bond like they want you to.

My initial plan was to hit everything with Fluid Film since I've done it in the past and it's well known to be a go-to product for vehicles with already existing rust. Fluid Film has awesome penetrating properties so it's ideal for soaking/absorbing into the metal and through the rust. I also like that it virtually needs no prep aside from a good undercarriage wash and dry and the removal of large chunks of rust (which isn't my case at all, I would not even bother with it if my truck was THAT badly rusted, what's the point).

The thing I don't like about the Fluid Film is that it washes off easy (you can rinse off the bulk/excess of it with a garden hose at close distance) and spraying it in areas that you will potentially touch alot means your hands will get oily/greasy if you come into contact with it.

So with this in mind, the MPHD seems like an ideal alternative, like a longer lasting, dry curing Fluid Film essentially. I am just curious how the penetration properties compare to those of Fluid Film and if its as effective as Fluid Film when sprayed over existing rust.

I did shoot Amsoil an email with some of these questions, so really hoping to get a thorough reply and not a general automated copy&paste answer with this.

---------- Post added at 01:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:27 PM ----------

I have used both products as well on my undercarriage. In my opinion I like the fluid film better because its clear. The Amsoil product seemed to leave a brownish /yellow cast to everything. Its more noticeable on the shocks which I had to wipe down in the spring to get the brownish/yellow cast off them. But they both to the job well.

I have used both Fluid film AS/NAS (aerosol/gallon) version and the Fluid Film Liquid AR which is a gel version of the original Fluid Film (thicker and more resistant in pretty much every way).

Both products are yellow/brown in color. The Liquid AR is noticeably more brown than the original Fluid Film which is like a clear/yellow in color. The heavier of a coat you put, the more yellow/brown it looks and obviously will be more noticeable on lighter colored parts that it's applied to.

I am not really bothered by the color at all, I'd rather have brown amsoil under there than brown rust.
 

Chris@FreedomMotorsports

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I have used the Amsoil on vehicles that already have rust on them, both my own and for customers and I have never seen it come off and have never seen the rust "spread" so to speak. It is still able to be seen under the MPHD, but I am not sure about the MPHD actually bonding to it like the way that POR15 will. I only use the POR15 on vehicles that are really eat up with years of rust damage. It is messy and can indeed be a pain to apply, but it is a permanent solution. I DO like the fact that the MPHD doesn't come off easily at all. The only way that I have found to get it off once it has fully cured is to use mineral spirits and let it soak and then wipe it off. Like you, I am not bothered by the brownish color of the MPHD, as long as it is protected, I would rather have the discoloration than expensive parts rusting out from under the truck.

I would definitely be interested to hear what Amsoil sends as a response to your questions.
 

Kabanstva

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I have used the Amsoil on vehicles that already have rust on them, both my own and for customers and I have never seen it come off and have never seen the rust "spread" so to speak. It is still able to be seen under the MPHD, but I am not sure about the MPHD actually bonding to it like the way that POR15 will. I only use the POR15 on vehicles that are really eat up with years of rust damage. It is messy and can indeed be a pain to apply, but it is a permanent solution. I DO like the fact that the MPHD doesn't come off easily at all. The only way that I have found to get it off once it has fully cured is to use mineral spirits and let it soak and then wipe it off. Like you, I am not bothered by the brownish color of the MPHD, as long as it is protected, I would rather have the discoloration than expensive parts rusting out from under the truck.

I would definitely be interested to hear what Amsoil sends as a response to your questions.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge Chris. I will post their reply here as soon as I hear back from them.
 
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