Class IV Hitch

[sobiloff]

OK, this thread has me considering upgrading since my new trailer has a tongue weight a little above 500 pounds, the max the stock hitch is rated for. (I've added +2HD Deavers and Izzy's tow assist package so I'm pretty confident the suspension and frame can handle the weight.)

I like that Curt's made in America, and their weight ratings are a little higher than the ones from Draw-Tite and Reese. What has me confused is that they list two different hitches for the 2nd Gen Raptor: 14017 and 14016. The latter is listed in their sourcebook as the correct fit for trucks that have a factory hitch, but it dips down in the middle, significantly reducing the departure angle. The former part doesn't dip, and is what I'd prefer.

I'm going to give Curt a call tomorrow and figure out what's really going on and whether 14017 will actually work.

One other note: It looks like you lose the rear recovery points when you remove the stock hitch. So, if you rely on those (like I do) you'll need to have someone weld on new ones, or go with a stinger in your receiver (like this one from Factor 55).

 

[sherwood]

OK, this thread has me considering upgrading since my new trailer has a tongue weight a little above 500 pounds, the max the stock hitch is rated for. (I've added +2HD Deavers and Izzy's tow assist package so I'm pretty confident the suspension and frame can handle the weight.)

I like that Curt's made in America, and their weight ratings are a little higher than the ones from Draw-Tite and Reese. What has me confused is that they list two different hitches for the 2nd Gen Raptor: 14017 and 14016. The latter is listed in their sourcebook as the correct fit for trucks that have a factory hitch, but it dips down in the middle, significantly reducing the departure angle. The former part doesn't dip, and is what I'd prefer.

I'm going to give Curt a call tomorrow and figure out what's really going on and whether 14017 will actually work.

One other note: It looks like you lose the rear recovery points when you remove the stock hitch. So, if you rely on those (like I do) you'll need to have someone weld on new ones, or go with a stinger in your receiver (like this one from Factor 55).

You're on the exact subject of what I was looking for! I believe aftermarket hitches are lower thus changing departure angle... Also tow hooks are welded to stock receiver so you would lose those with either Curt or Reese. Let me know what they say if you call because I was seeing 14017 for Raptor.

 

[sobiloff]

Called them (Curt) this morning. The woman I talked with didn't know the answer, so she went to talk with one of her techs. She came back and said that 14016 was the one I'd need otherwise I'd lose my rear bumper. (!)

Looking at the installation instructions for both, neither of them (14016 nor 14017) in any way attach to the rear bumper. Looking at the rear bumper, it definitely attaches to brackets that are on the OEM cross bar. In fact, if you look closely at the installation instructions for the 14016, there's a photo of it installed. The reason it has a dip in it is so that you keep the factory hitch, thus keeping the attachment points for the rear bumper.

Well, phooey! I'm not going to run around with two hitches installed. I don't know why Curt thinks their solution is better than keeping a straight cross bar and just adding some mounting brackets for the bumper to attach to, but I'm not buying it.

It doesn't look like there's an American-made solution (B&W don't make F-150 hitches). However, Draw-Tite (owned by the same company as Hidden Hitch and Reese) at least makes a Class IV hitch that includes bumper brackets: part number 75216.

 

[sobiloff]

However, Draw-Tite (owned by the same company as Hidden Hitch and Reese) at least makes a Class IV hitch that includes bumper brackets: part number 75216.

…but, it doesn't look like any of these aftermarket hitches include the attachment points for the exhaust supports. Argh!

 

[Dane]

I gotta ask. Do you REALLY need a Class IV? What ARE you doing with it, recovery gear wise?

 

[sobiloff]

I'm towing a 6,000-pound trailer that can't use a weight-distributing hitch (it uses a polyblock coupling), so I'd like the hitch to be able to deal with more than 500 pounds tongue weight.

 

[sherwood]

Well, phooey! I'm not going to run around with two hitches installed. I don't know why Curt thinks their solution is better than keeping a straight cross bar and just adding some mounting brackets for the bumper to attach to, but I'm not buying it.

That’s ridiculous to have dual hitches on top of causing a lower departure angle! Good eye on that installation photo. I missed that!

I gotta ask. Do you REALLY need a Class IV? What ARE you doing with it, recovery gear wise?

I’m using a “winch” that says “must be used with class IV receiver” so trying to follow manufacturers guidelines.

 

[ddpt]

Why does the Ford Configurator for Raptor indicate it is a Class IV Hitch?

Trailer Tow Package

Included

Optional on XL, XLT, LARIAT, King Ranch®, Platinum, and Limited. Standard on Raptor (does not include Pro Trailer Backup Assist on Raptor).

Includes:
• 4-pin/7-pin wiring harness
• Auxiliary transmission oil cooler
• Class IV trailer hitch receiver
• Pro Trailer Backup Assist (not included on XL Base)
• Tailgate LED (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Smart Trailer Tow Connector (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Upgraded front stabilizer bar

 

[Loufish]

Here is a site that discusses the Hitch ratings:
https://ford.boatingmag.com/trailer-hitch-choices

Generally a Class 3 is good for between 500 and 600 lbs tongue weight (I find the 2 ratings on several sites) and between 5,000 and 6,000 lbs on trailer weight..

Class IV is between 1,000 and 1,200 on the tongue and gross towing weight of 10,000 to 12,000

My last truck had a Class IV and rated for 1,000 on the tongue and 10,000 trailer weight.

Every Class IV I've seen says anything over 500 lbs on the tongue need a WDH....

 

[EricM]

Why does the Ford Configurator for Raptor indicate it is a Class IV Hitch?

It's probably wrong. The configurator is not known for being 100% accurate.