Chipwerke for 2017 Ecoboost

[OPT PRIME]

You will want to stay completely stock then. Modifing and expecting any kind of warranty coverage a very big... and bad... gamble.

A long block is <$5k, labor is free. I can roll the dice. If I couldn't afford that amount or had to pay a dealer $10-11k to do the work I might stay stick.

Option B, two ECUs?


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[Turk10mm]

With traction control off in 4A it goes like a scalded dog. With traction control off in 2A it wheel spins badly. With traction control on in 2A it drops power, noticeably, even at a 50mph roll as it down shifts.

This feels like, to me, that the additional power is causing wheel spin off the line and during a rolling down shift. With traction control off there is no reduction in power, but I don't feel like putting my truck in the ditch. I'm over 40 and a lot more boring than i used to be and I don't really want to wreck my 70k truck.

So i'll probably drop to 1-1 tonight and see how it does tomorrow.

^^ this is after two days of driving it. I wish someone would get a dyno.

 

[smurfslayer]

Try leaving T/C on, with 4A. If stability is the culprit, 4a should alleviate the issue.

 

[Turk10mm]

4A with T/C doesn't exhibit any apparent loss in power. There's something it doesn't like about a 4x2 T/C On 60mph hit to WOT though. It almost bucks as it drops power after 5k rpm. I can't imagine its getting wheel spin but there's something the computer doesn't like.

Has anyone else experienced this?

 

[smurfslayer]

if it’s not occurring in 4a, then it’s most definitely traction and the electronic whiz-bang programming interfering. It may actually be getting wheel spin, just not human detectable wheel spin. you could try doing manual mode and do roll ons from say 40mph and 60 mph to see at what point you’re getting power cut.


If it was happening in 4a, I’d strongly suggest spark blow out or ignition cut.

You’re sure you’re not banging the rev limiter? I don’t have the chipwerke, but I’ve come off an exit ramp in manual, 3rd gear, nailed it and before I could upshift ran into either rev limit or stability like you. Enough to tell me to either quick shift 3rd or exit the ramp in 4th. I run in 4a almost all the time FWIW.

 

[Turk10mm]

its not the rev limiter for sure. It drops to say 4th at like 4000 (not really sure, wasn't watching that close) and just a shade over 5k you can feel an oscillation that feels like the motor physically having cylinders shut down. Not oscillation in the wheel but what feels like the block shaking slightly. If that even makes sense.

I don't know enough about what spark blow out would feel like.

I haven't been able to recreate it in 4A, however. I do know that its annoying and I'm wondering if lowering to 1-1 on the settings will alleviate it.

 

[smurfslayer]

Try baja mode. M&S still has a good deal of electronic aids interfering but Baja will let you spin, drift and the like. You can run 4x or 2x with Baja; so long as you’re not doing a bunch of turns, a few blasts in 4x won’t hurt.

 

[OffroadAlliance.com]

We just received a huge order of Chipwerke piggyback modules and Pedal Commanders. All in stock and ready to ship!

 

[Turk10mm]

No loss of power in Baja mode. Guess it's all the gadgetry trying to stop wheel spin. I wish there was a better solution than 4A, 2H TC off, or Baja mode. its very noticeable when it cuts power.

It's pulls like a beast in the right mode. With the pedal commander on city mode it's almost too much. Sport is too much.

 

[mmacfn]

Ok lemme wrap my head around this...

To get the best "launch" one has to be in baja mode basically?

No loss of power in Baja mode. Guess it's all the gadgetry trying to stop wheel spin. I wish there was a better solution than 4A, 2H TC off, or Baja mode. its very noticeable when it cuts power.

It's pulls like a beast in the right mode. With the pedal commander on city mode it's almost too much. Sport is too much.