GEN 2 Check engine light

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Old-Raptor-guy

FRF Addict
Joined
Jul 25, 2021
Posts
1,879
Reaction score
4,373
Location
USA
Yeah, I've heard some people say is like killing your engine but then some say to do it.

So should I stay with the same oil & filter or is there a better quality oil and filter I should use?
change it at a max of 5,000 miles. After that it doesn't really matter. I have seen multiple engines go over 300,000 miles using nothing but wal-mart oil and fram oil filters. Personally I use Purolator ONE oil filter and Mobil one oil, ( but I get my oil and filters free through my job). Change it often.
 

Old-Raptor-guy

FRF Addict
Joined
Jul 25, 2021
Posts
1,879
Reaction score
4,373
Location
USA
A shop told me to change the transmission fluid and differential, should I? Same shop that told me to do an engine flush. @Old-Raptor-guy
Yes, transmission every 30k, differential (front and rear) every 60k (unless the axle(s) go under water then change ASAP (at least check for water intrusion) .
Personally I do mine more often but again my situation is unique since I run a shop.
 
Last edited:

HSrider

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2018
Posts
126
Reaction score
39
Glad I found this thread. I have a 2019 Raptor with 63K miles, original owner and had the cam phasers done at 33K miles and everything has been good since. Then about 6 months ago driving home and get check engine light so stop and look up in manual then start truck and no check engine light. Truck ran fine and is still running fine and then on Tuesday I get check engine light again and truck is running fine. Stay's on all day long when starting the truck until my 2.5 hr drive back home it was off the whole time. Truck ran fine.

So go to autozone and they check for codes and I get a P0021 & P0018. it seems I have the same issue as the OP of this thread. Is this repair something I can do myself?

Dealer I bought truck from has done all the oil changes as they are free for the life of the truck and they supposedly have a lifetime power train warranty. So will be talking to them on Friday.

Just thought I would ask to see if this is something I can fix/replace myself.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

FordTechOne

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Posts
6,665
Reaction score
13,044
Location
Detroit
Glad I found this thread. I have a 2019 Raptor with 63K miles, original owner and had the cam phasers done at 33K miles and everything has been good since. Then about 6 months ago driving home and get check engine light so stop and look up in manual then start truck and no check engine light. Truck ran fine and is still running fine and then on Tuesday I get check engine light again and truck is running fine. Stay's on all day long when starting the truck until my 2.5 hr drive back home it was off the whole time. Truck ran fine.

So go to autozone and they check for codes and I get a P0021 & P0018. it seems I have the same issue as the OP of this thread. Is this repair something I can do myself?

Dealer I bought truck from has done all the oil changes as they are free for the life of the truck and they supposedly have a lifetime power train warranty. So will be talking to them on Friday.

Just thought I would ask to see if this is something I can fix/replace myself.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Those DTCs are typically the result of sticking VCT solenoids. The most common cause is poor maintenance resulting in sludge/varnish contaminating the solenoid screens and pintles.

You could replace them yourself, it just requires valve cover removal. However, removing the passenger side valve cover requires replacement of the high pressure fuel lines, as they’re one time use only.
 

HSrider

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2018
Posts
126
Reaction score
39
Those DTCs are typically the result of sticking VCT solenoids. The most common cause is poor maintenance resulting in sludge/varnish contaminating the solenoid screens and pintles.

You could replace them yourself, it just requires valve cover removal. However, removing the passenger side valve cover requires replacement of the high pressure fuel lines, as they’re one time use only.
Thanks for the quick response. And if I do replace these what can I do maintenance wise to avoid this happening again?

Sorry if dumb question but if replacing should I replace all? Are there any special tools required for high pressure fuel lines? I would rather not take to dealer and I'm pretty mechanically inclined just don't want to attempt if I might be getting in over my head.
 

FordTechOne

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Posts
6,665
Reaction score
13,044
Location
Detroit
Thanks for the quick response. And if I do replace these what can I do maintenance wise to avoid this happening again?

Sorry if dumb question but if replacing should I replace all? Are there any special tools required for high pressure fuel lines? I would rather not take to dealer and I'm pretty mechanically inclined just don't want to attempt if I might be getting in over my head.
Once an engine is has sludge/varnish from poor maintenance there is nothing that can be done to reverse it. Using a high quality synthetic oil will prevent it from getting worse.

The fuel lines require a crows’s foot on a torque wrench to get them tightened to spec. Other than that there’s no special tools. Depending on the price, you may want to change them all while you’re in there so you don’t have to open it up again if another one sticks.
 

HSrider

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2018
Posts
126
Reaction score
39
Once an engine is has sludge/varnish from poor maintenance there is nothing that can be done to reverse it. Using a high quality synthetic oil will prevent it from getting worse.

The fuel lines require a crows’s foot on a torque wrench to get them tightened to spec. Other than that there’s no special tools. Depending on the price, you may want to change them all while you’re in there so you don’t have to open it up again if another one sticks.

Understand on the poor maintenance and nothing that can be done to reverse it. I was just going by the dealer/Ford recommended oil change interval of 7500 miles. I guess in future if I continue using dealer it might be worth doing an oil change in between dealer change. Or if dealer doesn't use full synthetic oil I could just start doing them myself.

Sounds good on the fuel lines and I have both those tools already as long as I have the right size. I would just need to find torque specs.

At this time I won't be messing with it myself as I called the dealer I purchased truck at to see about the dealer life time power train warranty and how it works. Well they looked up my information and looks like I purchased a Premium Raptor warranty when buying the truck in Dec. 2018 which goes out to 7 yrs or 125K miles. So I will be calling dealer back next week to set up appointment to have them look at and diagnose truck. They said Ford's scheduling system got hacked about 2 weeks ago and it should be upgraded/fixed this week and seems to be a nationwide thing. So I'll call next week and get an appointment scheduled and go from there. Hopefully what they find is covered under warranty or most of it is.

Thanks to your response and @Old-Raptor-guy responses I at least know or have a good idea of what the issue should/could be. Now I just have to see if dealer can find the same issue.
 
Top