Car Stereo speaker harness adapter for B&O

[gijosh28]

I can't find the thread now either here or on f-150 forums, but someone identified the speaker harness on the B&O system and it was something really strange like an Audi or a SAAB. I also don't remember if it was Scosche or Metra or what. Does anyone remember what it was or where the thread was? Pictures attached.

 

[dhmcfadin]

I contacted Molex and they identified the male mate to this connector but it is an oem designed piece so that male side is made to mate to a pci board. I have both plugs ordered. As soon as I can confirm they are correct, I will post the part numbers. They will be plug and play but you will have to build the harness for your application.


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[BBLV]

Curious what you're trying to accomplish here? Running high level signal to a processor (Fix, etc)?

 

[gijosh28]

Curious what you're trying to accomplish here? Running high level signal to a processor (Fix, etc)?

No, being lazy. I don't want to run new speaker wires.

 

[cayenne]

No, being lazy. I don't want to run new speaker wires.

If you are installing higher quality speakers with an amp and ultimately higher power you should just run new speaker wire. Cross-reference the OEM wire AWG vs what power you will be running.

 

[dhmcfadin]

If you are installing higher quality speakers with an amp and ultimately higher power you should just run new speaker wire. Cross-reference the OEM wire AWG vs what power you will be running.

I can agree with OP. Running new wire through the molex connectors in the doors is a pain in the ass.

The factory speaker wiring is 18 awg and 20 awg depending on the channel. You can run 16 ft of 18 awg @ 4 ohm and 10 ft of 20 gauge @ 4 ohm before you experience any ill side effects. As long as the wire resistance is less than 5% of the nominal speaker impedance, there will not be a difference in speaker output even when using an oscilloscope. The factory wire is fine.

 

[gijosh28]

I can agree with OP. Running new wire through the molex connectors in the doors is a pain in the ass.

The factory speaker wiring is 18 awg and 20 awg depending on the channel. You can run 16 ft of 18 awg @ 4 ohm and 10 ft of 20 gauge @ 4 ohm before you experience any ill side effects. As long as the wire resistance is less than 5% of the nominal speaker impedance, there will not be a difference in speaker output even when using an oscilloscope. The factory wire is fine.

So, the front speakers I am installing are 2ohm, and the amp is rated at 200 watts into a 2 ohm load, so I guess I do need to re-wire. What gauge speaker wire should I run?

So, if I am running the 1/0 power down the passenger side of the truck, do I need to run speaker wire up the drivers side, and cross over to the passenger side for the front passenger speaker? Or can I run the passenger speaker wire with the power wire? I know you're not supposed to run RCAs with the power wire.

 

[dhmcfadin]

So, the front speakers I am installing are 2ohm, and the amp is rated at 200 watts into a 2 ohm load, so I guess I do need to re-wire. What gauge speaker wire should I run?

So, if I am running the 1/0 power down the passenger side of the truck, do I need to run speaker wire up the drivers side, and cross over to the passenger side for the front passenger speaker? Or can I run the passenger speaker wire with the power wire? I know you're not supposed to run RCAs with the power wire.

I have never experienced an issue running speaker wire and power and ground near each other. 9 times out of 10, any engine noise that is heard is due to a ground issue and generally easily remedied. RCA's is a different story in my opinion.

Check out this chart. It follows the 5% rule I spoke about above. Then you can go measure your lines and see what you need.

 

[grumble]

I can agree with OP. Running new wire through the molex connectors in the doors is a pain in the ass.

The factory speaker wiring is 18 awg and 20 awg depending on the channel. You can run 16 ft of 18 awg @ 4 ohm and 10 ft of 20 gauge @ 4 ohm before you experience any ill side effects. As long as the wire resistance is less than 5% of the nominal speaker impedance, there will not be a difference in speaker output even when using an oscilloscope. The factory wire is fine.

Except it's not about SQ - it's about proper wire size for the current being carried so that the truck doesn't catch on fire. If you add an amp, but you never "crank it" you're probably good with factory wiring. Depending upon the wattage an aftermarket amp puts out and how loud you listen to it will affect whether you need to rewire. I always err on the side of "don't burn my truck up." P=VI is a law - and so is the amount of I that a given awg size will carry without overheating.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Except it's not about SQ - it's about proper wire size for the current being carried so that the truck doesn't catch on fire. If you add an amp, but you never "crank it" you're probably good with factory wiring. Depending upon the wattage an aftermarket amp puts out and how loud you listen to it will affect whether you need to rewire. I always err on the side of "don't burn my truck up." P=VI is a law - and so is the amount of I that a given awg size will carry without overheating.

I think it’s also important to note that chart is extremely conservative. While I agree with you that with enough wattage, you can melt a wire by creating too much resistance, it’s not a realistic concern at this level. He is going to upgrade anyways due to his speaker resistance being 2 ohm so it’s not an issue.


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