Camburg Long Travel Kit

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II Sevv

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I seriously doubt that Camburg’s kit “drives like shit” just by virtue of being engineered differently. I have some of their parts and love them, and they have an incredible reputation for long travel kits that goes back farther than any of the current Raptor offerings. “Drives like shit” is completely anecdotal and in no way discredits their engineering. You should talk to them and figure out what may make it different.

I see no reason why you can’t just use the Live Valve shocks on your SVC kit. A shock is a shock and will fit any application with the right mounting hardware. Yeah, they might push a dual shock front end with a bypass, but that doesn’t mean you’re forced to do that.

You should also look at the Blitzkrieg kit. They make some really good prerunners
 
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Socal_GroceryRunner
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How the hell did you spend $20k on install? At $100 an hour that’s almost 20 hours, and on a lift it should take less than half that.

From what I’ve heard, install at SVC is in the $10k range.

I can easily see how the suspension components and wheels can rack up to $20-25k.
 
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Socal_GroceryRunner
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I seriously doubt that Camburg’s kit “drives like shit” just by virtue of being engineered differently. I have some of their parts and love them, and they have an incredible reputation for long travel kits that goes back farther than any of the current Raptor offerings. “Drives like shit” is completely anecdotal and in no way discredits their engineering. You should talk to them and figure out what may make it different.

I see no reason why you can’t just use the Live Valve shocks on your SVC kit. A shock is a shock and will fit any application with the right mounting hardware. Yeah, they might push a dual shock front end with a bypass, but that doesn’t mean you’re forced to do that.

You should also look at the Blitzkrieg kit. They make some really good prerunners

Exactly the point I’m trying to get to.
I understand Camburg utilizes the Live Valve.

The impatient side of me wants to go that route considering I can essentially do it in phases. With installing those Fox 3.0s and beef up the rear. Then eventually build on it with the extra bypasses.


Versus running any other manufacturer, which uses 2.5s up front and a bypass... which of course would require a complete kit to begin with.

I definitely want to hear input from an actual owner. Other factors can come into pay as in “riding like shit” on the road, which most people don’t realize that plenty of off road capable rigs aren’t often that comfy on the street.
 

Mille_ed

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Yes. That’s for the front and back with labor. You’ll need a bypass rack, deavers and bump stops on the back. I got trac bars but those are optional.


How the hell did you spend $20k on install? At $100 an hour that’s almost 20 hours, and on a lift it should take less than half that.

Don’t know where you’re getting your math from. It would
Nice rig!!

And to confirm, this $35k range is for their mid travel kit with labor done at SVC?

Also, are you running the king 4.0s through the bed?
 
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ogdobber

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What is the downside on road? I have zero driving experience with long or mid travel suspension.

Generally a proper off-road race truck/ prerunner will hunt and be wallowy on the street. My buddy has a long travel RPG and he complains about it on the street yet he can go 80 through 3 foot whoops


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II Sevv

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Yes. That’s for the front and back with labor. You’ll need a bypass rack, deavers and bump stops on the back. I got trac bars but those are optional.




Don’t know where you’re getting your math from. It would
He asked how much the mid travel kit was with install. Not how much your rear suspension kit cost plus install in that too. That’s why I was confused
 

II Sevv

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Nice rig!!

And to confirm, this $35k range is for their mid travel kit with labor done at SVC?

Also, are you running the king 4.0s through the bed?
I can absolutely assure you that a stock weight truck will not produce enough energy over the back axle for a 4.0 to be needed for damping unless you’re a professional driver with a cage installed, and at that point you’re betting off just building a 2wd prerunner. The front is far more important as that’s where the vast majority of your weight bias is. What makes you faster isn’t just “more shock”, it’s more tire, more skill, better shock tuning, and so on. I’ve seen guys with 3.0’s and 300 horsepower blow by linked trucks with 4.0’s in the whoops simply because the driver was better and the truck was better setup.
 

II Sevv

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There are also cheaper ways to do everything; most shops will either sell take off parts or parts customers ordered and canceled on. I bought the bypass rack that was in Jeff from SVC’s truck for $650 (it’s a $2000 rack) and a set of 18” 4 tube bypasses with 15” reservoirs for $800 plus $250 to have them professionally rebuilt. That’s like a $3500 savings which pays for track bars, tires, whatever else you’d want.
 
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