GEN 2 Cam Phaser replacement in your own garage ...

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ViMo

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No need to lift the body. The workshop manual procedure does not include cab removal.
Yes, good encouragement ... I was worried about how to improvise the dismantling and lifting of the cabin, because I don't have an elevator ...
 
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ViMo

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Had mine done at the dealer last week. Tech removed the front tires, lowered front end and raised the rear end which allowed "easy on the back" access to the engine bay. Did not remove cab. Just intake and front of engine. Also replaced timing belt and gear.
Very good idea to tilt the car towards the front ... I was thinking of building a small scaffolding around the car front, because it is very high for me and difficult to walk around the engine.
 
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ViMo

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You don’t have to remove the body. While you can pull the engine out with the body on, it’s not worth the time for cam phasers. And you you find yourself in deep and can’t get it done inside the frame, you can pull the motor at about any point.
Get yourself a one-month subscription to AllData.com. (Or AllDataDIY.com or something like that) It’s like 20 bucks and will walk you through the whole thing.
In procedures, there will be a “cam phasers body-on (raptor)” procedure that is step by step.
Take your time and follow each step you’ll be good.
Take the wheels off and lower the truck, that helps the arms.
Lay something over the AC radiator if you find yourself resting on it a lot as it’s soft.
AllData.com will show all the special tools needed. Primarily the cam alignment/holding tool.
The only really use I’ve had with the phasers specifically is some of the alignment tools are soft/out of spec and will bend and move, making it a pain to break loose abs torque cam gears. You can use a plumbers wrench to hold a cam in place if needed.
It’s not too bad. Take your time, follow instructions.
I will definitely get all the technical information possible, I will study it before starting the disassembly to replace the parts, step by step. However, I still have to find out if after replacing the necessary parts I have to make a software update, in case it is not absolutely necessary I prefer to stick with the old software.
Thanks for recommending Alldata.com, I will subscribe here as well.
 
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I will definitely get all the technical information possible, I will study it before starting the disassembly to replace the parts, step by step. However, I still have to find out if after replacing the necessary parts I have to make a software update, in case it is not absolutely necessary I prefer to stick with the old software.
Thanks for recommending Alldata.com, I will subscribe here as well.
Here.
Oh, and the cam gears (at least in my 18) are held in by a Torx Plus. Not a standard Torx. Typically designated by “TP”. Like TP-55.
I don’t *think* an update is required. Cam gears are same dia, degree variation. I don’t know about spring load but the solenoids are on/off so I can’t imagine an update would do anything other than change when they are modulated, not the locking feature. But that’s more just speculation lol.
 
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ViMo

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Here.
Oh, and the cam gears (at least in my 18) are held in by a Torx Plus. Not a standard Torx. Typically designated by “TP”. Like TP-55.
I don’t *think* an update is required. Cam gears are same dia, degree variation. I don’t know about spring load but the solenoids are on/off so I can’t imagine an update would do anything other than change when they are modulated, not the locking feature. But that’s more just speculation lol.
However, with the advent of new parts for CamPhaser there is a new software, sure something different from the old software ...
 

FordTechOne

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Oh, and the cam gears (at least in my 18) are held in by a Torx Plus. Not a standard Torx. Typically designated by “TP”. Like TP-55.
I don’t *think* an update is required. Cam gears are same dia, degree variation. I don’t know about spring load but the solenoids are on/off so I can’t imagine an update would do anything other than change when they are modulated, not the locking feature. But that’s more just speculation lol.
Good tip on the Torx Plus; most people don’t have a set of those laying around. They can be hard to find in stores as well.

The VCT solenoids are duty cycled by the PCM, which allows the phaser to be positioned anywhere between base timing and fully advanced/retarded. The locking pin wear was being caused by the phasers locking/unlocking too frequently, so the duty cycle was changed in the new calibration.
 
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ViMo

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Good tip on the Torx Plus; most people don’t have a set of those laying around. They can be hard to find in stores as well.

The VCT solenoids are duty cycled by the PCM, which allows the phaser to be positioned anywhere between base timing and fully advanced/retarded. The locking pin wear was being caused by the phasers locking/unlocking too frequently, so the duty cycle was changed in the new calibration.
So, now we know what makes the new software different from the current software. Thanks, FordTechOne.
It would have been ideal if some settings could have been made in the current software using FORScan and not by resofting.
 
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ViMo

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Good tip on the Torx Plus; most people don’t have a set of those laying around. They can be hard to find in stores as well.

The VCT solenoids are duty cycled by the PCM, which allows the phaser to be positioned anywhere between base timing and fully advanced/retarded. The locking pin wear was being caused by the phasers locking/unlocking too frequently, so the duty cycle was changed in the new calibration.
I want to know ... isn't locking and unlocking done every time the engine is stopped and started? What is the very high operating frequency of the locking pin?
 

Ski4Ever

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@ViMo, please try to condense your multiple replies in a row using the “+Quote” feature when replying in the future.

Good luck with your repair!
 
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