What were the alignment specs BEFORE you aligned it the first time? What you describe could be a few things, but usually it's caused by the toe being off quite a bit, tires inflated too much or too little, also loose "joints" (ball joints, tie rods-inner and/or outer, control arm bushings), and even loose steering rack. There is also the steering position sensor mounted in the steering column that feeds steering wheel position to the EPAS rack.
As others have said, it really is a bad idea to modify something that has this type of problem. That said, it can be diagnosed if taken to a competent shop. A general repair shop or ****** alignment shop is not a good place to go for problem diagnostics. I've also found that the newer, laser/digital chassis alignment machines are VERY fragile at the alignment heads that attach to the wheels. If everything is perfect with the machine calibration, they are great, as in quick & easy. HOWEVER, I've seen them be out of spec quite a bit meaning the printed sheet looks good, but the actual alignment is whacked.