Bump steer ‘13 screw

[B E N]

Tie rod ends. But first take it in for a free alignment check. Excess toe out will cause the same symptoms.

If you have hit a curb, jump, whatever it has a tendency to pull the LCA out of adjustment (especially if you don't have an alignment kit installed, or if the last alignment tech didn't properly tighten the bolts). When that happens the front of the tire moves outward (toe out). Now your front tires are pointed in different directions, so when you hit a bump and unsettle the suspension the bias leans to one side or the other, causing the truck to go in the direction of that tire.

The tie rod ends control the angle of the wheel (attach to the steering rack) if they are severely worn as the suspension upsets the tie steering angle of the tire changes due to that play.

The geometry of the IFS on this truck makes it very resistant to "bump steer". Generally bump steer refers to a geometry condition in the suspension where the ride height has been changed (usually lowered) in a manor significant enough to cause the linkage geometry of the front end to come out of place. Unless you have lowered your raptor 6" this isn't the case.

 

[BlueSVT13]

check the wheel hubs, lower ball joints, and steering rack.

Been under the truck multiple times and everything checks out. Nothing loose at all no noises. Except i did start hearing a “clunk” sporadically when one tire or the other hits a small bump or dip while driving at parking lot speeds. But im sure thats just the shocks right?

 

[BlueSVT13]

Tie rod ends. But first take it in for a free alignment check. Excess toe out will cause the same symptoms.

If you have hit a curb, jump, whatever it has a tendency to pull the LCA out of adjustment (especially if you don't have an alignment kit installed, or if the last alignment tech didn't properly tighten the bolts). When that happens the front of the tire moves outward (toe out). Now your front tires are pointed in different directions, so when you hit a bump and unsettle the suspension the bias leans to one side or the other, causing the truck to go in the direction of that tire.

The tie rod ends control the angle of the wheel (attach to the steering rack) if they are severely worn as the suspension upsets the tie steering angle of the tire changes due to that play.

The geometry of the IFS on this truck makes it very resistant to "bump steer". Generally bump steer refers to a geometry condition in the suspension where the ride height has been changed (usually lowered) in a manor significant enough to cause the linkage geometry of the front end to come out of place. Unless you have lowered your raptor 6" this isn't the case.

You might be right on the money yesterday i flushed the power steering fluid and replaced with new and bled the system for a good half hour to make sure there was absolutely no air trapped in the lines incase that could be the problem. Took it for a drive and still get the same feedback from the steering wheel when going into a driveway. When i got back home i was looking at my truck from the front and noticed that the driver side tire sticks out slightly more that the passenger. Looked down at the tie rods and there is a little more thread showing on the driver than the passenger tie rod. Hopefully its a simple as it needing an alignment. Know any good shops in the LA area?

 

[B E N]

Not familiar with LA. Look for a shop that has good reviews from the off road crowd. Usually a race shop will do a better job than a big chain type place. Ask the shop check the steering and suspension for wear. Most shops are glad to because it allows them to sell you services.

Alignment on these isn't particularly difficult, but getting the LCA bolts tight to torque spec is a pain, and often gets left half done. Splurge for alignment kits. They make it easier on the tech and help the lca stay in place.

Clunk is most likely end links. Pull one and go for a drive, you don't have to even Jack the truck up. If the noise goes away you've found the culprit.

At 93k my 11 needed just about every bushing in the front end, plus most of the wear items. I took a weekend and did a full rebuild and it drives beautifully after the work. I don't routinely drive the truck hard, and it made sense to spend the time and money to get another 100k of good mannered, safe behavior out of the front end.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Not familiar with LA. Look for a shop that has good reviews from the off road crowd. Usually a race shop will do a better job than a big chain type place. Ask the shop check the steering and suspension for wear. Most shops are glad to because it allows them to sell you services.

Alignment on these isn't particularly difficult, but getting the LCA bolts tight to torque spec is a pain, and often gets left half done. Splurge for alignment kits. They make it easier on the tech and help the lca stay in place.

Clunk is most likely end links. Pull one and go for a drive, you don't have to even Jack the truck up. If the noise goes away you've found the culprit.

At 93k my 11 needed just about every bushing in the front end, plus most of the wear items. I took a weekend and did a full rebuild and it drives beautifully after the work. I don't routinely drive the truck hard, and it made sense to spend the time and money to get another 100k of good mannered, safe behavior out of the front end.

He has the slot delete/alignment kit already, so that does make it easier for the alignment shop then? Good to know.

 

[BlueSVT13]

Not familiar with LA. Look for a shop that has good reviews from the off road crowd. Usually a race shop will do a better job than a big chain type place. Ask the shop check the steering and suspension for wear. Most shops are glad to because it allows them to sell you services.

Alignment on these isn't particularly difficult, but getting the LCA bolts tight to torque spec is a pain, and often gets left half done. Splurge for alignment kits. They make it easier on the tech and help the lca stay in place.

Clunk is most likely end links. Pull one and go for a drive, you don't have to even Jack the truck up. If the noise goes away you've found the culprit.

At 93k my 11 needed just about every bushing in the front end, plus most of the wear items. I took a weekend and did a full rebuild and it drives beautifully after the work. I don't routinely drive the truck hard, and it made sense to spend the time and money to get another 100k of good mannered, safe behavior out of the front end.

My truck barely has 44k miles haha but i will definitely look for a reputable alignment shop and ask them to do an inspection

 

[BlueSVT13]

He has the slot delete/alignment kit already, so that does make it easier for the alignment shop then? Good to know.

Thats was my reasoning for getting it in the first place plus more adjustability for better alignment

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Thats was my reasoning for getting it in the first place plus more adjustability for better alignment

Keep us informed and post the before and after alignment specs, reputable shops will give you those. In case you have further problems, there are some ace’s on here who can help you.

 

[BlueSVT13]

Keep us informed and post the before and after alignment specs, reputable shops will give you those. In case you have further problems, there are some ace’s on here who can help you.

Definitely will! Thanks a lot everyone for all the help

 

[B E N]

The alignment kits don't change the range of adjustment. What they do is add a cam so the tech can just rotate the bolt to change the caster/camber (toe and angle alignment are done after with the tie rods). Without the alignment kit you basically loosen the bolts and start banging on stuff to get it close. So the tech gets better control and has a much easier time getting things to satisfaction. The easier you can make the job on the guy that is doing it the better result they are likely to produce.

The side benefit is that these cams increase the LCA's ability to resist changing position, the cam essentially locks them in place. So unless you hit so hard the bolt physically rotates your alignment will stay true. Worth while mod just for this. If you really push hard spend the extra for the HD kits, they are essentially double locking. You need one kit per side.