Bump steer ‘13 screw

[Canuck714]

Keep us informed and post the before and after alignment specs, reputable shops will give you those. In case you have further problems, there are some ace’s on here who can help you.

He does not have a slot delete kit. Those are steel plates with a single fixed bolt hole that you weld onto the ears of the frame. Made by RPG, SCV, KHC etc. Requires an adjustable upper arm for alignment.

He has adjustable caster/camber LCA bolts. Allows lower arm adjustment (like factory) but has a cam for accurate adjustment and hold position better than the factory way of just tightening the **** out of it..

While he is feeling the steering move on bumps, it is unlikely a fault of "Bump-Steer" That would require a change in tie rod length and major geometry changes outside of the factory setting.

One thing the OP did not state was what wheel offset, tire size and pressure that he has in his current set up. Those can all effect the way the steering reacts to bumps.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

He does not have a slot delete kit. Those are steel plates with a single fixed bolt hole that you weld onto the ears of the frame. Made by RPG, SCV, KHC etc. Requires an adjustable upper arm for alignment.

He has adjustable caster/camber LCA bolts. Allows lower arm adjustment (like factory) but has a cam for accurate adjustment and hold position better than the factory way of just tightening the **** out of it..

While he is feeling the steering move on bumps, it is unlikely a fault of "Bump-Steer" That would require a change in tie rod length and major geometry changes outside of the factory setting.

One thing the OP did not state was what wheel offset, tire size and pressure that he has in his current set up. Those can all effect the way the steering reacts to bumps.

Thanks for the education, got it now .

 

[BlueSVT13]

He does not have a slot delete kit. Those are steel plates with a single fixed bolt hole that you weld onto the ears of the frame. Made by RPG, SCV, KHC etc. Requires an adjustable upper arm for alignment.

He has adjustable caster/camber LCA bolts. Allows lower arm adjustment (like factory) but has a cam for accurate adjustment and hold position better than the factory way of just tightening the **** out of it..

While he is feeling the steering move on bumps, it is unlikely a fault of "Bump-Steer" That would require a change in tie rod length and major geometry changes outside of the factory setting.

One thing the OP did not state was what wheel offset, tire size and pressure that he has in his current set up. Those can all effect the way the steering reacts to bumps.

Wheel offset is +6mm, 17x8.5 5” backspacing Icon wheels. Tires size is stock 315/70/r17. Tire pressure in the front is 35 psi

 

[W0n70n]

Has anyone checked the torque spec on your steering rack? Is there any play in the connections from your steering wheel to the rack?

 

[BlueSVT13]

Has anyone checked the torque spec on your steering rack? Is there any play in the connections from your steering wheel to the rack?

The steering shaft doesnt have any significant play in it that i can tell. As far as the steering rack itself, i havent really checked that but i will!

 

[Canuck714]

Wheel offset is +6mm, 17x8.5 5” backspacing Icon wheels. Tires size is stock 315/70/r17. Tire pressure in the front is 35 psi

Well we can pretty much rule out the wheel tire as the culprit.
If the front end is getting bounced around and you can feel the steering deflecting off bumps with stock components...something isnt right! Its either alignment or service limits (worn out) on those parts.
As mentioned get the heavy duty alignment cams for the lowers installed.
Get a fresh Alignmentave but them push a bit more Caster into the alignment than factory setting. Aim for 5.5-6. This will do 2 things. It gives you a more dead/heavy on center feeling and will give you just a touch more firewall clearance at the pinch seem. It moves the fron bolts just inside of center and the rear bolts to the outside. The alignment cams help here!!
Make sure all the bushings in uppers and lowers are tight.
Make sure tie rods and rack dont have play
Are the shocks fresh? Having one that is down on nitrogen or shock fluid can throw things off.
Ball Joints good?

After that, there isnt much left to look at.

Hope you get it figured out.

 

[tltoronto]

Just a curious detail missed by me perhaps, but, with the Eibachs, where is your lower perch set at? Was the truck fine and these symptoms showed up?

 

[Yukon Joe]

Honestly, sounds like the power steering pump is going bad. Your steering is fading while off roading (hot pump) and it's noticeable at low speeds in and out of driveways. Again, pump fade due to low engine RPMs.

 

[BlueSVT13]

Well we can pretty much rule out the wheel tire as the culprit.
If the front end is getting bounced around and you can feel the steering deflecting off bumps with stock components...something isnt right! Its either alignment or service limits (worn out) on those parts.
As mentioned get the heavy duty alignment cams for the lowers installed.
Get a fresh Alignmentave but them push a bit more Caster into the alignment than factory setting. Aim for 5.5-6. This will do 2 things. It gives you a more dead/heavy on center feeling and will give you just a touch more firewall clearance at the pinch seem. It moves the fron bolts just inside of center and the rear bolts to the outside. The alignment cams help here!!
Make sure all the bushings in uppers and lowers are tight.
Make sure tie rods and rack dont have play
Are the shocks fresh? Having one that is down on nitrogen or shock fluid can throw things off.
Ball Joints good?

After that, there isnt much left to look at.

Hope you get it figured out.

Shocks were rebuilt about 10k ago. Probably didnt need it given the truck had like 35k miles but i dont know what abuse the previous owner gave the truck so I decided to have them rebuilt. As far as ball joints and tie rods and rack go, everything feels solid and tight. But i still haven't gone to get an alignment due to the fact im at work all day and dont get out till after all shops are already closed but i will find the time soon

 

[BlueSVT13]

Just a curious detail missed by me perhaps, but, with the Eibachs, where is your lower perch set at? Was the truck fine and these symptoms showed up?

The shocks were left at stock setting when i had the eibachs installed