Broke rod from sway bar to lower control arm

[LVdezertdawg]

I wish that aftermarket would come up with a quick disconnect like on some of the jeep products!!!!

 

[Maxx2893]

I agree. Disconnects would be cool. You can have the stability on road trips and have truly ifs for offroading.

 

[Highroller]

I'm getting my tires rotated and balanced at discount tire. The tech comes from the back and tells me something is wrong with my truck. So I'm thinking oh great what is it. He proceeds to tell me as we're are walking to my truck that I broke the rod connecting the sway bar to the lower control arm on the drivers side.

Passenger side:

Driver side:

I have no idea how I did it. So what do y'all think. Go to the dealer and get the OEM part or get a sturdier aftermarket part. I have no idea how much this part is. I wouldn't think it would be much because it's just a small part.

Ford Parts.com

Part Number - 5K483

Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link

4WD, (+) SVT

$80.30

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

I'd strongly recommend removing both sway connect bars.

So Tizz, is that what you did or did you also remove the whole bar? I just went out and looked at mine, and want to try it out and was thinking i could just remove the little connecting rods and leave the sway bar...

 

[Raptizzle]

So Tizz, is that what you did or did you also remove the whole bar? I just went out and looked at mine, and want to try it out and was thinking i could just remove the little connecting rods and leave the sway bar...

I've got the entire setup off my truck. You'd probably be fine leaving it in on the road but I think when your truck is bouncing around it would be best to have the middle bar out of there as well. A nice way to shave off a few lbs. from the front end too. The cross bar is heavier than it looks. It's only a couple extra bolts to yank that out too.

 

[gotSVT]

I did two of the Outlaw Raptor Runs - one with and one without it. I'll have to say without is the way to go if you are running less than 80mph. Anywhere north of that and I felt like the truck was too loose for comfort - granted that was only a few seconds or minutes at most. . Below 80 and it was just awesome getting the truck to turn in quicker. I did put it back on when I was done. IMO too much sway on the road without it. I drove from Prescott to Phoenix and was a little uncomfortable running through the mountains on 17 with the additional sway. I'm sure your AO, perch settings and tire choice will all play into this as well.

Note: The studs are not fixed to the frame. If you pull the swaybar off make sure you pull the studs out with it. I almost left mine in and would surely have lost them!

 

[SilverBolt]

Have you had your truck at maximum articulation? That is about the only way I can see the swaybar link to break where it did.

These are for Jeeps but no reason you couldn't do the same on the Raptor. Quick disconnects give you the best of both worlds. Sway connect on the street, pull the pins and you are sway free offroad.

JK Wrangler Front Swaybar Disconnects 4-6" lift | TeraFlex Suspensions

 

[Maxx2893]

i don't think i've had it at full articulation. who knows. i wish those were readily available for the Rap. i would definitely buy them. one of the vendors should jump on that. i'm sure many would buy it.

 

[Reptar]

So Tizz, is that what you did or did you also remove the whole bar? I just went out and looked at mine, and want to try it out and was thinking i could just remove the little connecting rods and leave the sway bar...

you have to be careful if you disconnect the end links and leave the bar just hanging in there. It can still pivot and rotate, those ends aren't fixed in that position, it's just the clamping of the poly/rubber bushings holding it. usually if you disconnect both sides it'll go flopping down on the ends. I'd find some way to secure the bars on the end in place from rotating down and clanking on stuff if you disconnect the endlinks.

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

you have to be careful if you disconnect the end links and leave the bar just hanging in there. It can still pivot and rotate, those ends aren't fixed in that position, it's just the clamping of the poly/rubber bushings holding it. usually if you disconnect both sides it'll go flopping down on the ends. I'd find some way to secure the bars on the end in place from rotating down and clanking on stuff if you disconnect the endlinks.

good point, I was just thinking about that too and was trying to figure out how I could just test it without have to pull it all out, but it also doesn't look too hard to pull it out either...I think I have a project for next weekend...YEAH BUDDY.