brake problems

[Bill_C]

What i would do. You said it was pulling to one side. Go to the opposite side it pulling to. If it is pulling to the right, check the left brake hose. Have some one else push on the brake pedal. As the push down look at the hose to see if a bubble is forming. This would be where the fluid is escaping to between the layers in the hose if it ruptured inside. The reason I say this is because with out any pressure built up in the system the hose may still look normal.

 

[slowrsx]

What i would do. You said it was pulling to one side. Go to the opposite side it pulling to. If it is pulling to the right, check the left brake hose. Have some one else push on the brake pedal. As the push down look at the hose to see if a bubble is forming. This would be where the fluid is escaping to between the layers in the hose if it ruptured inside. The reason I say this is because with out any pressure built up in the system the hose may still look normal.

It dosent pull .. truck just dosent stop easily and pedal goes to floor

 

[Bill_C]

Sorry I thought you said it pulled. I'm at a loss now. I would still check both hoses and check to see if you have fluid in the reservoir.
At this point I'm just not sure if you got air in the system when you tried to bleed it.
Any one else? I don't know if these newer brake systems are set up like the older ones with a proportioning valve that if you got a loss of pressure it would shuttle the valve inside and close off fluid flow to the side with the pressure loss. I had a Chrysler product do that to me and the only way to get a firm pedal back in it was to have it pressure bled.
Sorry slowrsx, I tried to help.

 

[slowrsx]

I appreciate it.. same I trying to figure out what happened call I did was pads and rotor and not open anything then noticed the squishy pedal wen car is on put solid wen car is off.. master has full fluied and dint see any leaks anywhere

 

[Bill_C]

Just a shot in the dark but when you pushed the the pistons back in it could have blown one of the o-rings internally in the master. Your symptoms point to internal leak somewhere.

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

Unfortunately it is very possible that you blew an oring in the master cylinder. When you push the pistons in the caliper, you really need to open the bleeder valve to allow the fluid to escape there and not be forced back through the master cylinder.

Try this, first take a siphon pump and pull the old oil out of the master to start with and install some fresh new fluid. Then, get a buddy to help and with the engine off, have that buddy to pump the brake pedal about 15-20 times to build up pressure, etc through the pedal and once he gets to that point have him hold it to the floor as tight as he can, while he is holding it there, open the bleeder on one caliper. You may want to hold an open top drain pan out behind the bleeder at an angle to catch the fluid that shoots out. Do this two or three times per caliper to ensure that you are getting new fluid all the way through to the caliper and once you are satisfied that there is no air coming out of that caliper (IE: you have a good strong stream of fluid out of the bleeder) move on to the next caliper. Do this for all of the calipers to ensure that you have properly bled the entire system. Once you are done with that, you should have plenty of pedal if you haven't blown a seal in the master cylinder. IF after doing the full flush in this manner, you still have a soft pedal, then you are probably due for a new master cylinder.

 

[Raptor911]

I don't see why you need to open a bleeder valve when pushing in the cylinder back in. Just remove the cap from the master cylinder. I usually remove the master cylinder cap and then lightly cover the master cylinder with saran wrap to keep any debris out. This way the brake fluid can flow back into the master cylinder and not be trapped by the air tight lid.

 

[treypal]

Did you bleed the whole system or just the front?

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

By just opening the cap of the reservoir, you are still forcing fluid backwards through the master cylinder, this is not a good thing. I use to do that too until I blew an oring on one of my chubbies and had to replace the master. It CAN work that way, but doing so does put you at a higher risk of blowing out an oring.

 

[Maxx2893]

So what would be the steps to properly completely drain and replace brake fluid? Is it a single one process or do you need to take it in and have a machine do it because of the ABS and all that.