Bigger sub in the back

[goblues38]

That looks awesome, nice clean mounting piece by the way! Are you running the factory gen3 B&O unleashed speakers through the amp? Also are you using a ZEN NAV TV to convert the audio from the head unit to the amp, or are you using the output from the factory amp? Are you using all the speakers in the truck?

I was wondering about this because I was thinking of starting out with the NAV TV device and an amp and sub but sticking with the factory speakers. Does anyone know if this is possible and will work decent until I can do the rest of the system? @goblues38

sort of......

the factory sub will need to be looked at.

the problem is......when you replace the factory B&O amp....it will shut off signal to the A pillar tweeters......there is a separate amp that powers them, and it gets its signal from the B&O amp....

so you will have full range to the rear doors which are a 2 way speaker (so you are good)...and full range to the front door which is just a mid woofer......it will work....but you won't have any high range (tweeters) working up front.

it is really....do it all...or don't do it when dealing with the B&O

 

[gobluejd]

sort of......

the problem is......when you replace the factory B&O amp....it will shut off signal to the A pillar tweeters......there is a separate amp that powers them, and it gets its signal from the B&O amp....

The REAR doors and A Pillar tweeters are powered from the FRONT AMP.

 

[goblues38]

The REAR doors and A Pillar tweeters are powered from the FRONT AMP.

But with the B&O (rear) amp removed...they will get no signal.....a;; the "processing" is done in the main B&O amp.

 

[gobluejd]

But with the B&O (rear) amp removed...they will get no signal.....a;; the "processing" is done in the main B&O amp.

Oh ok. Not sure about that, but trust you. I just know you can not wire the front speakers from the rear harness. Wires come from amp behind heat unit.

 

[goblues38]

Oh ok. Not sure about that, but trust you. I just know you can not wire the front speakers from the rear harness. Wires come from amp behind heat unit.

I ran my stock speakers for a night..... Did the speakers last...and can confirm....when I removed the B&O amp...the tweeters up front and center speaker stopped playing......

The stock doors sounded half way decent (no highs up front) with real power hooked up to them.

This is what confirms my theory.....the speakers are not the problem in the B&O set up.....the amp is. It is way my soap box is so tall any time someone just wants to replace speakers. It is a waste of money.

 

[smurfslayer]

People talking 3 grand...lol. Not sure if I should laugh or cry. HAHAHAHA

But he did say starting and was not joking! Pretty sure I'm around 10K right now.

First time on FRF I’ve been sound shamed. I’m solidly under 3k, self installed.

Unfortunately, your best bet is to a complete install all at once. Stick with the stock system till you acquire all your components.

This. Save the money and frustration of going back at it time and time and time again.

Think it broke my moon roof today. Atleast the sunshade crunched and plastic fell. This isn't counting the mid/highs Sundown SALT amp.
This on one 4k....will be crazier on two.

That’s it? I can make stuff dance off tables too with a 500 S&W, bonus: distortion free

Ok, there will be some permanent blackening of the moonroof shade, console lid, dash and maybe the seats from the cylinder gap.

I was lucky to skate in on a 2017 and not have to deal with the B&O system. Sony let me do upgrades in pieces but I ended up at the same place relatively as some others. It would have been cheaper for me to do it all at once, but I was Jonesing for some B/D illumination.

 

[Shane361]

First time on FRF I’ve been sound shamed. I’m solidly under 3k, self installed.

This. Save the money and frustration of going back at it time and time and time again.

That’s it? I can make stuff dance off tables too with a 500 S&W, bonus: distortion free

Ok, there will be some permanent blackening of the moonroof shade, console lid, dash and maybe the seats from the cylinder gap.

I was lucky to skate in on a 2017 and not have to deal with the B&O system. Sony let me do upgrades in pieces but I ended up at the same place relatively as some others. It would have been cheaper for me to do it all at once, but I was Jonesing for some B/D illumination.

Def not all of it, but this is a 4k on two 2k subs which is under powering them. But I bought a Sundown Audio SALT-6 to go on the 12's and another bank of 56ah. 112ah will be plenty for the two SALT amps. Of course I have to spent another $275 for more zero OFC wiring FTL. This SALT-6 takes 3 runs of zero compaired to the 2 runs on the SALT-4. Both banks are in the bed of the truck. After the bigger amp is installed I should see the subs wake up! I'll keep the 4k hooked up and mounted on the back wall for when I want to throw my underseat enclosure back in. That Gately Enclosure with four 8" Gately Relentless subs is a monster set-up!

 

[greenstanger]

I had the system installed at an audio shop not sure what they did except it wasn’t cheap and we changed all the speakers. I am selling just the sub box with subs for $850 the board with all the goodies sold.

 

[greenstanger]

Does that box transfer to the Gen 3s?
What are you looking to get? Selling each individually or entire package?

It’s out of a 2018 I’d think it would transfer I sold the electronics I’ve still got the sub box setup wanted $850 I’d take $800 today.. my # is 413 537 5543 call or text me

 

[Waptor23]

the sheer amount of conflicting info on adding subs to a B&O unleashed system is frustrating. Goodsounds makes a plug n play rear seat option but does it sound bad bc of the roll off? I can’t imagine 6.5” sundown subs sounding good to begin with. They make an under bench option and JL makes a stealth box option but how does that sound with the roll off? Not dropping 10k when i just want to fill in the low end.