Big Red Build Thread
- Thread starter raiderofthelostark
- Start date
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smurfslayer
Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77
- Joined
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Maybe you should make some adjustments to your diet ;-)
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raiderofthelostark
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Update:
Just finished installing my canopy lighting project.
The RSI SmartCap is a serious piece of kit. It fits perfectly, mine doesn’t leak, and because it’s made of Stainless Steel means it’s also magnetic…this might be a first for this kind of setup but whatever.
Through a ton of trial and error over the past few weeks, this part of the build for camping, overlanding, tailgating, etc is finally done.
Objective:
1. Bright Cargo Lighting
2. Bright Exterior lighting with canopy doors open.
3. Low light option (amber or red)
4. Even lower light/bedtime option (amber or red)
5. Lights need to have a frame
Lights:
I ordered over 8x different types of LED bars and tested all of them. Ironically, one of the cheapest from China ended up being the right setup both technically and mechanically.
It’s a two-light bar made for tailgates that I was able to cut and splice into individual lights making it a 2 for 1 scenario. Because each light has its own aluminum frame and angle brackets on each end made it easy to mount the magnetic mounts below. It takes over 40lbs of force to remove each light with the mounts below.
Mictuning Tailgate Light Bar
Mounting…Magnetically:
Similar to the lights, I demoed a ton of different magnetic mounts and these ended up being the winners. The topside of the canopy as a modular build also allows for solid cable management through the frame holes. Before anyone says anything about the magnets failing and falling off, to remove any one of the single magnetic mounting points is over 30-60lbs of force and they are each spread out over 4-6 inches. These are not going anywhere and I’ve already tested these on the bumpiest trails and roads.
Mounts for the wires:
Magnetic Zip Tie Mounts
Mounts for each of the lights (2x), power hub (4x), control box (3x), and controller (4x):
Strong Magnetic Mounts
Wiring:
Super simple with multiple fuse points. The battery connection is fused, the power hub in the canopy is fused to each light, and the control switch is also fused. LED draw is low but making sure the power wire is secure was a priority.
Ran fused, shielded, and braided sleeve 12g from battery to canopy along the frame and through the tailgate hole in front of the passenger rear tire. Connected to a power hub for +/- distribution. Used 4wire/18g spliced into IP65 waterproof connectors so should the light or wiring fail, it can be easily replaced.
Here’s the control box I used:
Nilight 6-Gang
And fused power hub to bring 12V to the canopy:
Nilight 6-way fused block
Each light has 5 Wires that I connected into a 4 wire IP65 connector:
Ground = Ground
Bright white = Reverse
Bright Red = Braking (Connecting Both L & R turn signals together yields no amber, just bright red)
Low Red = Running
Overall:
This is exactly what I was looking for. It took a lot more time to test both the LEDs and Magnet mounts but the end result was worth it. Each "zone" Left, Right, Center, Tailgate, All, is controllable from the box with bright white, bright red, and low light red.
6-Gang Control Box at Tailgate - Top to Bottom, Left to Right:
1. Cargo White 2. Tailgate White 3. All Bright Red
4. Left Canopy White 5. Right Canopy White 6. All Low Red
If anyone has any questions, happy to help. This wasn't simple to plan but was made simple to installe once I tested everything.
Just finished installing my canopy lighting project.
The RSI SmartCap is a serious piece of kit. It fits perfectly, mine doesn’t leak, and because it’s made of Stainless Steel means it’s also magnetic…this might be a first for this kind of setup but whatever.
Through a ton of trial and error over the past few weeks, this part of the build for camping, overlanding, tailgating, etc is finally done.
Objective:
1. Bright Cargo Lighting
2. Bright Exterior lighting with canopy doors open.
3. Low light option (amber or red)
4. Even lower light/bedtime option (amber or red)
5. Lights need to have a frame
Lights:
I ordered over 8x different types of LED bars and tested all of them. Ironically, one of the cheapest from China ended up being the right setup both technically and mechanically.
It’s a two-light bar made for tailgates that I was able to cut and splice into individual lights making it a 2 for 1 scenario. Because each light has its own aluminum frame and angle brackets on each end made it easy to mount the magnetic mounts below. It takes over 40lbs of force to remove each light with the mounts below.
Mictuning Tailgate Light Bar
Mounting…Magnetically:
Similar to the lights, I demoed a ton of different magnetic mounts and these ended up being the winners. The topside of the canopy as a modular build also allows for solid cable management through the frame holes. Before anyone says anything about the magnets failing and falling off, to remove any one of the single magnetic mounting points is over 30-60lbs of force and they are each spread out over 4-6 inches. These are not going anywhere and I’ve already tested these on the bumpiest trails and roads.
Mounts for the wires:
Magnetic Zip Tie Mounts
Mounts for each of the lights (2x), power hub (4x), control box (3x), and controller (4x):
Strong Magnetic Mounts
Wiring:
Super simple with multiple fuse points. The battery connection is fused, the power hub in the canopy is fused to each light, and the control switch is also fused. LED draw is low but making sure the power wire is secure was a priority.
Ran fused, shielded, and braided sleeve 12g from battery to canopy along the frame and through the tailgate hole in front of the passenger rear tire. Connected to a power hub for +/- distribution. Used 4wire/18g spliced into IP65 waterproof connectors so should the light or wiring fail, it can be easily replaced.
Here’s the control box I used:
Nilight 6-Gang
And fused power hub to bring 12V to the canopy:
Nilight 6-way fused block
Each light has 5 Wires that I connected into a 4 wire IP65 connector:
Ground = Ground
Bright white = Reverse
Bright Red = Braking (Connecting Both L & R turn signals together yields no amber, just bright red)
Low Red = Running
Overall:
This is exactly what I was looking for. It took a lot more time to test both the LEDs and Magnet mounts but the end result was worth it. Each "zone" Left, Right, Center, Tailgate, All, is controllable from the box with bright white, bright red, and low light red.
6-Gang Control Box at Tailgate - Top to Bottom, Left to Right:
1. Cargo White 2. Tailgate White 3. All Bright Red
4. Left Canopy White 5. Right Canopy White 6. All Low Red
If anyone has any questions, happy to help. This wasn't simple to plan but was made simple to installe once I tested everything.
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Nex
RIP CoronaRaptor
Like a dance club now.
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raiderofthelostark
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raiderofthelostark
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raiderofthelostark
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The stock one works fine but isn't as cool lol.
The TurboSmart BOV expels to the atmosphere and makes a sweet ass whoosh whenever you let off the gas, especially under load.
The new intakes, intercooler, piping, etc. doesn't mean it was required but its one of those while you're in there upgrades that begins to make sense after the fact and was totally worth it
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