GEN 2 Baja Design LP9 Pros wired to Raptor's DRL

[surfnsocal]

Hey guys hoping someone has done this already.

The Baja Design LP9 Pros have built in amber day-time running lights.

I dropped my truck at SVC to have a new bumper, ONX6 light bar, and 4 LP9 Pros installed.

What I'd like to do is wire the amber DRL part of the 4 LP9 Pros in to the Raptor's DRLs. Using a relay (if needed...the drl function of 4 lights should only draw <1 amp), it should be easy to splice in to the existing Raptor DRL wiring right?

They said they hadn't done that before, would take extra time, but instead usually wire the DRL function of the LP9s to an AUX switch.

Anyone done this type of install?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Yeah real easy. Just use a fuse tap and you'll be good to go. Find a fuse under your fuse panel that comes on when your truck is on (use a voltmeter) and you're golden. I like these since they give you 2 fuses and you're not bypassing a fuse at all:

They call them "fuse taps" or "add a fuse" or "piggy back fuse taps". Lots of them all over amazon (if you ordered the LP9 from us, shoot me a message and i'll just send you one)

 

[Woolaroc]

This is excellent! @4x4TruckLEDs.com

Quick question. Are the Amber DRL's fused, and does anyone know what fuse it is? Meaning could we tap into THAT specific fuse so they come on when the other amber lights are on? (since they aren't on all the time).

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

That's what the add-fuse device does. You pull the fuse in your fuse panel, plug the add a fuse in and it gives you TWO fuses. One the factory fuse goes in, the 2nd for your accessories. You really shouldn't do this for big large devices. The power draw on the back lighting is minimal so you're fine. Usually you'd use this technique with a relay as it doesn't require much amperage to throw the relay.

So say you take a 5 amp circuit. Put a 5 amp fuse back in for the vehicle side, and a 1 amp for the back lighting. It's minimal amperage. I forget the EXACT amperage. I want to say .15 per light but I forget.

 

[Oldfart]

Yeah real easy. Just use a fuse tap and you'll be good to go. Find a fuse under your fuse panel that comes on when your truck is on (use a voltmeter) and you're golden. I like these since they give you 2 fuses and you're not bypassing a fuse at all:

They call them "fuse taps" or "add a fuse" or "piggy *** fuse taps". Lots of them all over amazon (if you ordered the LP9 from us, shoot me a message and i'll just send you one)

Is a "piggy *** tap" similar to a "piggy back tap", just with a bigger hole in the back end?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Err woopsie. Fixing now

 

[Hahn Solo]

You could also buy this $15 backlight kit sold by one of the vendors at Specialty Performance Parts:

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...sories/products/rigid-radiance-backlight-wire

 

[Raptor911]

 

[surfnsocal]

Thanks guys. I talked to the shop tonight, they’re figuring it out.

Good to have the knowledge here though!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Woolaroc]

That's what the add-fuse device does. You pull the fuse in your fuse panel, plug the add a fuse in and it gives you TWO fuses. One the factory fuse goes in, the 2nd for your accessories. You really shouldn't do this for big large devices. The power draw on the back lighting is minimal so you're fine. Usually you'd use this technique with a relay as it doesn't require much amperage to throw the relay.

So say you take a 5 amp circuit. Put a 5 amp fuse back in for the vehicle side, and a 1 amp for the back lighting. It's minimal amperage. I forget the EXACT amperage. I want to say .15 per light but I forget.

Thanks, my question was more directed towards using the EXACT fuse that the DRLs are tied to so the backlights come one when those do, not just when ignition is turned on. Wondering if the DRL fuse #/location is known.