B&O Stereo upgrade

[double dee]

Everything is ordered and should be shipping by the end of the week. Thanks everyone for their input. I decided to say screw it and went with some more expensive options than originally planned. Here is everything.

Nav TV A2B

JL Audio VX/1000/5i Amp

MTI behind the seat subwoofer box

2x JL Audio 10TW3 8ohm 10 inch subs

JL Audio C5 High-Performance Speaker Series C5-650 Component Kit

JL Audio C1 Speaker Series C1-650x 6.5-inch Coaxial Kit

NVX 4-gauge amp power kit

JL Audio XD-AICDO Toslink Connector

Noico .80mil sound dampening for interior of doors/back wall

Noico 150ml insulation for back side of the plastic door panels

Roadkill fastrings

Misc wires, fuses, accessories

Total came in just under $3400. I ordered most of the build from MTI since they had a SAVE20 coupon code. I plan to install everything over the next few weekends to include making an amp rack. I'll probably be hitting a few of you up if I run into anything. LOL

I plan on taking pictures of the install and trying to document the things I was unsure about when I first started to hopefully help someone else out. Trying to figure out how to tie into the factory wiring had me a little confused at first.

Still trying to figure out the JL DSP Tun app. I guess its a good thing I'll have a few weeks!

 

[Cobraman044]

Everything is ordered and should be shipping by the end of the week. Thanks everyone for their input. I decided to say screw it and went with some more expensive options than originally planned. Here is everything.

Nav TV A2B

JL Audio VX/1000/5i Amp

MTI behind the seat subwoofer box

2x JL Audio 10TW3 8ohm 10 inch subs

JL Audio C5 High-Performance Speaker Series C5-650 Component Kit

JL Audio C1 Speaker Series C1-650x 6.5-inch Coaxial Kit

NVX 4-gauge amp power kit

JL Audio XD-AICDO Toslink Connector

Noico .80mil sound dampening for interior of doors/back wall

Noico 150ml insulation for back side of the plastic door panels

Roadkill fastrings

Misc wires, fuses, accessories

Total came in just under $3400. I ordered most of the build from MTI since they had a SAVE20 coupon code. I plan to install everything over the next few weekends to include making an amp rack. I'll probably be hitting a few of you up if I run into anything. LOL

I plan on taking pictures of the install and trying to document the things I was unsure about when I first started to hopefully help someone else out. Trying to figure out how to tie into the factory wiring had me a little confused at first.

Still trying to figure out the JL DSP Tun app. I guess its a good thing I'll have a few weeks!

You will love that amp. So far I am very impressed with the quality and sound. Do not get the bluetooth adaptor. All the research I did said it is worthless. Get this https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698128/JL-Audio-DRC-205.html?tp=3091
I mounted it up to the left of the steering will. You can flip through different tunes and control the subwoofer volume.

 

[goblues38]

Everything is ordered and should be shipping by the end of the week. Thanks everyone for their input. I decided to say screw it and went with some more expensive options than originally planned. Here is everything.

Nav TV A2B

JL Audio VX/1000/5i Amp

MTI behind the seat subwoofer box

2x JL Audio 10TW3 8ohm 10 inch subs

JL Audio C5 High-Performance Speaker Series C5-650 Component Kit

JL Audio C1 Speaker Series C1-650x 6.5-inch Coaxial Kit

NVX 4-gauge amp power kit

JL Audio XD-AICDO Toslink Connector

Noico .80mil sound dampening for interior of doors/back wall

Noico 150ml insulation for back side of the plastic door panels

Roadkill fastrings

Misc wires, fuses, accessories

Total came in just under $3400. I ordered most of the build from MTI since they had a SAVE20 coupon code. I plan to install everything over the next few weekends to include making an amp rack. I'll probably be hitting a few of you up if I run into anything. LOL

I plan on taking pictures of the install and trying to document the things I was unsure about when I first started to hopefully help someone else out. Trying to figure out how to tie into the factory wiring had me a little confused at first.

Still trying to figure out the JL DSP Tun app. I guess its a good thing I'll have a few weeks!

Good luck. take your time. it is so worth it in the end.

 

[Oldfart]

My thoughts on DSP are this......I have been doing high end car audio and home theater since the late 1980's. Longer then some people have been alive (sadly).

You MUST be an one of those old bastards!!

 

[PapaBear]

Great info in this thread! I haven’t done a thing to the stereo on my truck yet, but I followed the link to the MTI site which states that when the rear seats are flipped up, the seat back will contact the subwoofer and they don’t recommend playing the stereo in this state. As I often use my rear cabin floor for cargo with the seats up, this would matter to me. Any real world experience regarding this from those with an MTI sub box?

 

[smurfslayer]

I have the single 10”. I keep the volume under control when the passenger rear is up and am considering brackets to move the seat forward.

 

[dhmcfadin]

I sure hope people don’t take the advice above about not utilizing a dsp in a vehicle. All of the reasoning above has absolutely nothing to do with why we use a dsp in the first place. In a concert environment or home audio environment, a dsp is not used to localize sound left and right. Speakers in a room are generally placed in a symmetrical position. Level matching and time alignment are not as necessary. A dsp in a concert/home environment is to correct for the environment from an EQ perspective. Making one speaker louder than the other or changing time alignment does change the tone of a speaker in a symmetrical environment. EQ affects the tone of a speaker. No speaker in the history of speakers has ever played flat out of the box. Not even in a anechoic chamber. Don’t care what environment a speaker plays in, EQ is absolutely crucial. To say being left or right of the center image at a concert means eq or a dsp isn’t necessary is ignorance at its finest. Imaging at a concert means nothing. EQ is what matters. That’s what sound engineers do. They correct for the acoustical environment to ensure a speaker is able to properly represent the music being played. A concert/room environment is generally free of obstacles between the listener and the speaker. No matter where you stand, you will always be able to localize left, right, and center acoustical notes.

In a vehicle, it’s a completely different conversation. I don’t care how nice of equipment you buy, if you aren’t willing to properly tune it, you are literally throwing money away. In a vehicle, we not only need to address the EQ of each speaker (which out of the box is exponentially worse in a vehicle) we also correct for the variance in acoustical materials and their effects on the overall frequency response, non-symmetrical cabin environment, non-symmetrical speaker placement, and the change in acoustical crossover behavior vs electrical. Other than EQ, there is absolutely no relation as to why we use a dsp in a concert/home environment vs in a vehicle environment. Unlike a concert/home environment, in a vehicle, level matching, time alignment, and acoustical crossover accuracy play a major role in tonality and localization. Not using a dsp creates a wall of sound. Using a dsp creates a stereo image which allows a listener to localize just like in a concert/home environment. It allows each speaker to play equal to one another. It allows each speaker to have the tonality of one another. It allows each speakers eq and acoustical crossover point to match one another. In a vehicle, when you set a highpass crossover point at 3200hz, that speaker does not actually cross at 3200hz. In fact, two identical speakers placed on opposite sides of the vehicle will have completely different acoustical crossover characteristics. The reason for this is due to a vehicles environment. A dsp allows you correct for the multiple of variables that wreak havoc on even the nicest stereo equipment. The people posting above that oppose a dsp in a vehicles environment have never experienced what a real high fidelity system sounds like nor do they understand the purpose of a dsp. It’s not their fault but as the saying goes, ignorance is bliss. If y’all want more reasoning, email me. I professionally consult and design high fidelity vehicle audio systems and I professionally tune digital signal processors.

Dom
[email protected]

 

[goblues38]

I sure hope people don’t take the advice above about not utilizing a dsp in a vehicle. All of the reasoning above has absolutely nothing to do with why we use a dsp in the first place. In a concert environment or home audio environment, a dsp is not used to localize sound left and right. Speakers in a room are generally placed in a symmetrical position. Level matching and time alignment are not as necessary. A dsp in a concert/home environment is to correct for the environment from an EQ perspective. Making one speaker louder than the other or changing time alignment does change the tone of a speaker in a symmetrical environment. EQ affects the tone of a speaker. No speaker in the history of speakers has ever played flat out of the box. Not even in a anechoic chamber. Don’t care what environment a speaker plays in, EQ is absolutely crucial. To say being left or right of the center image at a concert means eq or a dsp isn’t necessary is ignorance at its finest. Imaging at a concert means nothing. EQ is what matters. That’s what sound engineers do. They correct for the acoustical environment to ensure a speaker is able to properly represent the music being played. A concert/room environment is generally free of obstacles between the listener and the speaker. No matter where you stand, you will always be able to localize left, right, and center acoustical notes.

In a vehicle, it’s a completely different conversation. I don’t care how nice of equipment you buy, if you aren’t willing to properly tune it, you are literally throwing money away. In a vehicle, we not only need to address the EQ of each speaker (which out of the box is exponentially worse in a vehicle) we also correct for the variance in acoustical materials and their effects on the overall frequency response, non-symmetrical cabin environment, non-symmetrical speaker placement, and the change in acoustical crossover behavior vs electrical. Other than EQ, there is absolutely no relation as to why we use a dsp in a concert/home environment vs in a vehicle environment. Unlike a concert/home environment, in a vehicle, level matching, time alignment, and acoustical crossover accuracy play a major role in tonality and localization. Not using a dsp creates a wall of sound. Using a dsp creates a stereo image which allows a listener to localize just like in a concert/home environment. It allows each speaker to play equal to one another. It allows each speaker to have the tonality of one another. It allows each speakers eq and acoustical crossover point to match one another. In a vehicle, when you set a highpass crossover point at 3200hz, that speaker does not actually cross at 3200hz. In fact, two identical speakers placed on opposite sides of the vehicle will have completely different acoustical crossover characteristics. The reason for this is due to a vehicles environment. A dsp allows you correct for the multiple of variables that wreak havoc on even the nicest stereo equipment. The people posting above that oppose a dsp in a vehicles environment have never experienced what a real high fidelity system sounds like nor do they understand the purpose of a dsp. It’s not their fault but as the saying goes, ignorance is bliss. If y’all want more reasoning, email me. I professionally consult and design high fidelity vehicle audio systems and I professionally tune digital signal processors.

Dom
[email protected]

We will just continue to disagree on this topic. I agree with everything you say a dsp does and can do. I just disagree that it is "needed or required" to get a good sound.

 

[dhmcfadin]

We will just continue to disagree on this topic. I agree with everything you say a dsp does and can do. I just disagree that it is "needed or required" to get a good sound.

Good is subjective. You don’t know what good is until you’ve actually heard good.

 

[dhmcfadin]

We will just continue to disagree on this topic. I agree with everything you say a dsp does and can do. I just disagree that it is "needed or required" to get a good sound.

The other thing: a dsp isn’t some mystical complicated piece of hardware. It is easy to use and doesn’t cost very much $150.00 I think of adding a dsp the same way I think of buying my fords with the larger gas tank. It’s a nominal upgrade charge in comparison to the price of the truck. The sheer increase in utility of the larger gas tank far outweighs the small increase in cost. Same goes for a dsp. You’ve already got great components, why would you want to hinder them?