Audio upgrades, Beyond the DIY under 500

[dhmcfadin]

Finally got it to connect by flashing to Universal then back to vehicle specific.

My current configuration is sub in stock enclosure, 6.5 mid bass in rear doors, 6x9 threeway in front doors, and tweeters. Currently I do not have the tweeters wired in to my amp since its a 5 channel amp.

What output configuration should I use on the app?

First things first, running three way in the door and tweeters in the pillars destroys your sound stage. You create a wall of sound vs an image on the dash. You need components upfront with a crossover. The doors are already a terrible location for speakers to begin with. By adding three way in the door, you make it worse.

Second, The DSR1 is designed to replace the factory Sony amp/dsp completely. That factory amp is what powers the tweeters in the pillars so I would be interested to see how you are able to get those to play.

Your setup should look like this:





You really need to replace those door speakers with a real set of components. Install the crossovers at the rear of the truck at your amp output. The output from the crossovers will run into the factory speaker harness provided in FO2 harness kit.

 

[evan9r]

Currently I dont have the tweeters hooked up.

Should I swap the 6x9 and 6.5 mids? 6x9s coaxial in the rear doors and 6.5 mids in the front doors?

 

[dhmcfadin]

Currently I dont have the tweeters hooked up.

Should I swap the 6x9 and 6.5 mids? 6x9s coaxial in the rear doors and 6.5 mids in the front doors?

You still need tweeters and a crossover since you are using a 5 channel.

You can also run active crossovers if you decide to not use the rear speakers. Ch 1 and 2 on amp would be tweeters. Ch 3 and 4 would be mids.

 

[smurfslayer]

You still need tweeters and a crossover since you are using a 5 channel.

You can also run active crossovers if you decide to not use the rear speakers. Ch 1 and 2 on amp would be tweeters. Ch 3 and 4 would be mids.

seeing the mobile toys rear sub enclosure has me thinking about going beyond the DIY / $500 (really closer to 600).

So to up the game -after- the DIY build we would need

DSR1 + harnesses
replacement amp and wiring (from the battery, right?

- I’m not really looking to go nuts on this but understand the 3 ways in the door and tweeters in the pillars issue. Would it be better to just not hook up the pillar tweeters? for now?

components will need to come later.

- since we are pulling the sony amp in that case, do we need to muck about with for scan and update the settings or does replacing the hardware take care of the muddy, less than precise signal / sound from the stock radio?

 

[evan9r]

Yes, the DSR1 and harness are just plug and play.

I will unhook the rears and hook up the tweeters for now untill I can find time to install the crossovers and move the mid bass to the front and get rear coaxials.

With it not being a 7 channel amp, I feel like I am not going to get the full effect of the software since I wont be able to do individual time alignment, eq, etc for separate channels. I could use my leftover sub amp but thats more real estate that I dont have to spare.

I didnt mess with Forscan, nor have I seen anyone else when doing this mod.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Yes, the DSR1 and harness are just plug and play.

I will unhook the rears and hook up the tweeters for now untill I can find time to install the crossovers and move the mid bass to the front and get rear coaxials.

With it not being a 7 channel amp, I feel like I am not going to get the full effect of the software since I wont be able to do individual time alignment, eq, etc for separate channels. I could use my leftover sub amp but thats more real estate that I dont have to spare.

I didnt mess with Forscan, nor have I seen anyone else when doing this mod.

You don’t need forscan. If you are unhooking the rears and using those channels for the tweeters, you will be running an active crossover network. You will be able to properly set time alignment/eq for each individual speaker. Here is what your configuration will look like.

The rears are simply for fill. They are not there to create a second sound stage. Proper time alignment and eq per each speaker are more important than the ambiance effect the rear speakers will create. When tuned properly, if you had rears hooked up, they would be very quite. Getting your front stage right is much more important.

IMPORTANT: before you turn on the truck for the first time, disconnect the rcas from the amp and properly set your crossovers. If you run a full frequency signal to your tweeters, you will blow them instantly.

Let me know what tweeters you are running and I will let you know what crossovers settings to use.

 

[dhmcfadin]

seeing the mobile toys rear sub enclosure has me thinking about going beyond the DIY / $500 (really closer to 600).

So to up the game -after- the DIY build we would need

DSR1 + harnesses
replacement amp and wiring (from the battery, right?

- I’m not really looking to go nuts on this but understand the 3 ways in the door and tweeters in the pillars issue. Would it be better to just not hook up the pillar tweeters? for now?

components will need to come later.

- since we are pulling the sony amp in that case, do we need to muck about with for scan and update the settings or does replacing the hardware take care of the muddy, less than precise signal / sound from the stock radio?

You don’t need forscan.

If you go the DSR1 route, you will be removing the factory amp and replacing it with an amp of your choice. The amp will be wired directly to the battery and will recurved it’s remote signal turn on from the DSR1. Everything after that is plug and play.

Do it right and wait until you have all the proper components before doing the install. No sense in doing things twice. By putting three ways in the door and removing the tweeters, you will be going backwards. It will sound terrible. Wait until you buy everything.

 

[evan9r]

Morel Maximo 6. Looks like frequency is 2200-22000.

Did you notice engine noise and active noise canceling missing after install? Not sure if I turned it off by accident with Forscan or this install did away with it.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Morel Maximo 6. Looks like frequency is 2200-22000.

Did you notice engine noise and active noise canceling missing after install? Not sure if I turned it off by accident with Forscan or this install did away with it.

All of those features are controlled by the factory amp/dsp.

If you have the Morel Maximo 6, where is the rest of it? Mids and crossovers?

 

[dhmcfadin]

Morel Maximo 6. Looks like frequency is 2200-22000.

Did you notice engine noise and active noise canceling missing after install? Not sure if I turned it off by accident with Forscan or this install did away with it.

For the Maximo components:

Tweeters- Highpass 2200 hz 24db slope
Midbass- Highpass 70 hz 24 dB slope/ Lowpass 2200 hz 24 dB slope.