Audio upgrades, Beyond the DIY under 500
- Thread starter Guy
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Nothing to do with the factory headunit.
The DSR1 removes and replaces the factory amp behind the rear seat. You will need the F02 harness pack for your truck in conjunction with the DSR1.
The FO2 harness includes the factory connectors for power, can-bus communication, and output to the factory speaker harness. See attached photos.
Kahuna
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Forgive my lack of knowledge on this but to spell it out...
We can unplug the stock amp and woofer on and 802 and replace them with this, 7 channels of amplification run to replacement speakers in the stock locations and a separate amp and sub? No other bits required for full system functionality otherwise?
How can NavTV sell their gizmo for $850 if the DSR1 does the same thing for $250?
We can unplug the stock amp and woofer on and 802 and replace them with this, 7 channels of amplification run to replacement speakers in the stock locations and a separate amp and sub? No other bits required for full system functionality otherwise?
How can NavTV sell their gizmo for $850 if the DSR1 does the same thing for $250?
From the DSR1, you will will run the output rcas into external amps for your door speakers and sub. You must replace the factory amp with an external amp for both door speakers, tweeters, and sub or you will have no sound.
The DSR1 and NavTV are completely different components. Both eliminate the factory amp but are for different systems. DSR1 is for Sony trucks. NAVTV is for b&o.
They communicate differently. DSR1 uses can-bus which has been around for years and is somewhat of an analog signal. It’s easier to interpret. NAVTV uses a2b communication protocol. On trucks with b&o, instead of a harness running from the headunit to the factory amp, a usb is run between the two. This signal is completely digital and requires a much greater level of processing which is why there is a price difference. NavTV builds interface modules for Bentley, rolls Royce, Mercedes, etc. they build a much higher quality unit vs Rockford.
The DSR1 and NavTV are completely different components. Both eliminate the factory amp but are for different systems. DSR1 is for Sony trucks. NAVTV is for b&o.
They communicate differently. DSR1 uses can-bus which has been around for years and is somewhat of an analog signal. It’s easier to interpret. NAVTV uses a2b communication protocol. On trucks with b&o, instead of a harness running from the headunit to the factory amp, a usb is run between the two. This signal is completely digital and requires a much greater level of processing which is why there is a price difference. NavTV builds interface modules for Bentley, rolls Royce, Mercedes, etc. they build a much higher quality unit vs Rockford.
Your amp rack would look something like this with the DSR1. This is a previous build I did. 4 channel amp with crossovers for the mids and highs, sub amp for the sub. Keep in mind that you won’t be using all the speakers in the DSR1 harness. Some of the those channels simply don’t exist in our trucks.
So your output from the amp front channels went to the crossover and the crossover split the mids and highs for the front correct?
Not having much luck with the DSR1. Updated/Flashed all firmware etc. Got it wired up and bluetooth does not stay connected so I cant even tune it. Back up alarms and other sounds are muted/different. Static out of right front speaker. Sub barely works. Almost ready to try something else or go back to my original set up.
Not having much luck with the DSR1. Updated/Flashed all firmware etc. Got it wired up and bluetooth does not stay connected so I cant even tune it. Back up alarms and other sounds are muted/different. Static out of right front speaker. Sub barely works. Almost ready to try something else or go back to my original set up.
Have you called Rockford yet? Have you updated both the Rockford side of the device and then updated the idatalink side? If so, call them and speak to their customer support. They are very responsive.
Since you aren’t able to tune it, of course it’s not going to sound right. Show me your wiring setup. Also show me a screen shot of your output configuration in the perfect tune app.
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Finally got it to connect by flashing to Universal then back to vehicle specific.
My current configuration is sub in stock enclosure, 6.5 mid bass in rear doors, 6x9 threeway in front doors, and tweeters. Currently I do not have the tweeters wired in to my amp since its a 5 channel amp.
What output configuration should I use on the app?
My current configuration is sub in stock enclosure, 6.5 mid bass in rear doors, 6x9 threeway in front doors, and tweeters. Currently I do not have the tweeters wired in to my amp since its a 5 channel amp.
What output configuration should I use on the app?
