Someone found the thread for me- here's your post (I assume this is the one you wanted):
Still looking into this...
Called Rhomar Industries, they have facilities in Springfield Mo. They are going to see if they have some smaller quantities and how much they would be. I got a buddy who lives in Springfield with a rusty Raptor (Right, RPrice? <G>).
Here is a good description of how this stuff works for those who haven't used it:
What is Rust Converter? Rust Converter, a water-based primer, contains two active ingredients: Tannic acid and an organic polymer. The first ingredient, tannic acid, reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. Tannins are a group of water- and alcohol-soluble natural products extracted from fruits, trees and grasses. The second active ingredient, 2-Butoxyethanol, is an organic polymer that provides a protective primer layer. The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating that serves as an excellent primer for both oil and epoxy based paints.
How is Rust Converter different than a rust remover? Rather than removing rust, a rust converter mixes chemically with rust to create a black inert substance that can be painted over, concealing the existence of any rust and preventing further corrosion.
What objects can I use Rust Converter on? Rust Converter can be used on any rusty iron or steel object. It can be used on vehicles, trailers, fences & gates, iron railings and staircases, sheet metal, cast iron, outsides of tanks, lawn equipment, mower decks, farm equipment, tractors to name just a few. It will not work on aluminum, copper, stainless steel or galvanized metal. As a general rule, Rust Converter is a good solution to fixing rust on items you would consider painting.
How do I prepare the surface for application? Good surface preparation will enable the Rust Converter to work effectively and leads to a high quality end result. You will want to remove large rust and scale particles with a stiff bristled brush, hammer or sandpaper. The object of this step is to get any loose or flaking rust off as it does not provide a stable surface. The point is not to remove all the rust (this defeats the purpose of Rust Converter) as Rust Converter chemically bonds to the rust and seals it in. Rust Converter cannot penetrate grease or oil, so clean and degrease the surface first, then let it dry. This step ensures that other surface contaminants will not interfere with the reaction of the rust converter on the rusted surface. If the surface is subject to salt water spray for deicing salts, rinse the surface thoroughly with water, and allow it to dry prior to applying Rust Converter.
Here is a before and after.
The only problem with this stuff is you can't clean the rust off first... it has to have rust to work. Bummer! <GG>
Originally Posted by OBXRAPTOR
A light coat of rust is needed becaue it is the catalyst that reacts with the polymer solids in the stuff--looks milky going on then turns dark...I used a sponge to apply it- zero rust on Tacoma after many hours and 5 years going up and down the beach in NC.
Gonna do my Raptor at 6 months and at a year...reason for second coat is just to find the places you miss on first coat.
Maybe we can get a group buy going if enough folks are interested...keep me in the loop!
Yep... couldn't agree more. I think there is a serious possibility for a group buy... at a pint apiece, how many partners would we need? I really think this product is superior to the similar items you can get at autozone. The Navy stuff we used was frickin incredible... and this seems to be the same stuff to me after talking to thier rep in Springfield.
She did say that if we had somebody local (RPrice) that could pick it up, it would save us some bucks. I would be willing to come down and help you repackage it... what say you Rick?
