Another F'n blend door motor bitch

[Otis857]

I'm having a problem with driver side heat blowing cold but passenger heat is good. I have replaced the blend door right underneath the steering wheel and it's still blowing cold.. is there another one on the driver side further in the dash??

Since I didnt do the job myself, Im not sure about the exact location. But I think theres one on the bottom in the center right at the floor level. Check out Fordtechmaculoco's site on Youtube. He does a number of videos on repairing Fords and I recall seeing one on a shortcut for this blend door motor w/o pulling the dash.

 

[alwayscode390]

DAMN!

My drivers side is blowing hot, but my passenger side is cold (started today)

So its a blend motor I have to look forward to replacing now?

My driver seat warmer just went out last week , this is ridiculous! ---

 

[bfr]

So I just got done with the driver's seat heat (that was easy) and the rear backup cam (another easy one). Now passenger heat (and rear) blows cold. I think it's the actuator behind the Sync unit...but not sure. Saw a couple of those videos that were mentioned. Do they cover how to troubleshoot which actuator is the culprit? 2018's looking better every day.

 

[Ditchplains1]

Otis857,
I had the passenger temp control actuator go out last year. After 6 months I bit the bullet and ordered the parts from TASCA; I think the actuator was about $28.00. I watched the videos and after about 4 hours had it replaced. Biggest problem was pulling apart the center console and center dash stack to locate the motor. You can easily get to two of the actuators this way.
I pulled the non working actuator apart. The plastic gears were fine; it was the contact strips that give variable resistance as the blend door opens/closes that were worn. Thus the clicking....the computer wasn't sensing the door's position so it kept trying to close or open it. I was able to stop the clicking while driving by finding the temperature that had the non responding blend door actuator in the correct position. This would probably have made any passenger pretty miserable, but my NewFoundland rides on the floor in the back with the window open...and never complains!

Eddie
ps A good set of ratcheting open end wrenches helps immeasurably; I ended leaving a fair amount of skin from the back of my hands behind...

 

[teeoster]

Can't serm to fix cold passenger side air

Hi guys

I replaced the blend door actuator that is behind the back right side the nav unit with a new Ford oem part. I did the recalibratration by pulling the fuse for the climate control system for 1 minute then putting it back in and turning the ignition on.

The bled doors seemed to be making operating sounds like you would expect. But....guess what I still have the same issue. Ice cold air on the passenger side! It switches from floor to dash to defrost ducts ok but only blows cold.

Is there a different actuator that controls passenger side temp? Cold it be something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

John

---------- Post added at 06:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------

 

[Ditchplains1]

Teeoster,
Unfortunately there are 4 actuators in the Gen 1. In addition to the one behind the Navigation screen, there is one on the bottom on the passenger side, as well as one behind the air control unit, and one on the driver's side. I believe they are all the same part number. There are a number of Youtube videos on how to replace them. I believe the one on the bottom passenger side is the easiest to replace; the back and driver's side require the dash to be disassembled...
Eddie

 

[tinman44]

Teeoster,
Unfortunately there are 4 actuators in the Gen 1. In addition to the one behind the Navigation screen, there is one on the bottom on the passenger side, as well as one behind the air control unit, and one on the driver's side. I believe they are all the same part number. There are a number of Youtube videos on how to replace them. I believe the one on the bottom passenger side is the easiest to replace; the back and driver's side require the dash to be disassembled...
Eddie

the drivers side requires the whole air handler to be removed unless you have some sort of beam transporting technology you're not sharing...or you just break stuff and duct tape it back

 

[mike0378]

I've replaced 2 so far on my raptor one by the gas pedal and one behind the nav. both were pretty easy. not looking forward to replacing the one under the dash!!

 

[GVW299]

I just replaced my passenger and driver's side blend door motors without taking the dash out - put it back together and it all works. It used to click for a few seconds on start and I just remote started it and never heard it. We were stuck in peak hour last night and it clicked for 10 minutes straight so was time to get it done.

Before you take anything apart, make sure your climate control is off first before you disconnect everything...

The clicking noise seemed to be coming from the passenger side so I replaced that. When I put everything back together, the clicking was still there... lucky I purchased two.

I realize now that what you should do first is access your passenger side blend motor, a 10 minute job and disconnect the cable and then turn the key back on. If the clicking is gone, it was the passenger side, if the clicking is still there, it is the driver's side. Buy two and replace the passenger side regardless.

The 8mm front bolt on the passenger side motor is easy to get to. Go through the glove box to get to the back screw and if you remotely have man hands, get your wife to do it and it is out in 20 seconds.

The driver's side means undoing lots of bolts and screws. I used makuluco's video and it was pretty straightforward to get everything apart up to actually taking out the motor. I took the seats out. Carpet back, brackets off, underfloor ducts out, 3 duct screws on the driver side, 1 duct screw on the passenger side.

You get to the blend motor from the passenger side and it will have you scratching your head. I used a pry bar from the passenger side and made some room to get the motor. The front bolt came off ok. I then got a screw driver and pried down and broke the rear bolt tab off. I could then get my fingers in and pushed the red tab back and got the cable off. Getting the old motor itself out was a right front-bottom. My wife called it Daddy Birthing. There is a not a lot of room so I pretty well got a screwdriver and a pair of pliers and broke pieces off it until I was able to get it out. Probably didn't need to do that but it was going in the trash anyway. Persevere and it will happen. The main gear was missing a tooth

Getting it back in had me scratching my head until I realized why makuluco cut that part out of his video - you need to do some plastic surgery. There is a lot of unnecessary plastic in the way. I used a hammer and chisel and some pliers and removed as much as I needed. Doesn't look bad but you can see why he says not to do it on customer's vehicles. There are a bunch of fins and maybe manufacturing tabs that don't do anything and easy just to break or chisel them off. Just don't break through the ductwork and not necessary to break off the main post which a duct screw goes onto.

With those fins out off the way, the new motor goes in pretty easily if you pry down on the passenger side a bit but getting the cable back on took a little while with big hands but I got it in. The gear thing is not likely to line up at first. I just had the wife turn on the ignition and the gear arm starts moving. Use upward pressure and when it lines up, it pops in. Turn off the ignition. Replaced all the screw and bolts.

All back together and no more clicking.

 

[Msb.19d]

I upgraded mine first week I bought truck. No problems yet