Am I crazy?

[harpri11]

Welcome to FRF. Let me search the forum for you:

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2017 and onward Raptors with the 10R80 / 10 speed transmission are notorious for customer complaints about shifting. Probably about 5-10% of those complaints are legit, the other 90-95% are customers complaint about their Raptor because their s00b with a cvt or AMG Merc didn’t shift like that.

Tell them you need another overnight to be sure, take it to a private mechanic and have it checked out. It’s a good price, but, beware, you probably need new shocks, a not insignificant expense. Mileage is on the high side, and hence the price. If it rides nice, accelerates well, doesn’t make odd sounds, etc... give it a 2nd look

Get a “cold soak” start - bring a temperature (laser) gun and make sure it’s not started in the last 12 hours or more. If you hear marbles in a can at startup, it’s needs cam phasers.

check the twin panel moonroof. ( there are probably less than 250 Raptors without the moonroof from ’17-’20 ) pop to vent position. If you hear a pop sound, that’s the gasket grabbing the glass and it hasn’t been maintained. close, repeat until it doesn’t ‘pop’. Then open to the rear and close. make sure it’s not broken.

crawl under and hit it with a super bright light. Look for leaks and check the oil pan in particular. part way through ’18, they changed from the plastic to the metal pan. Most are fine, but some leak and when they do, getting a correct repair is very difficult.

at 138, I’d be looking for infrequent service items - trans fluid, diff fluid, transfer case, radiator, blinker ( just kidding )
If everything checks out, I’d be intrigued myself but that aside, why not?

As you seem to know your stuff, I figured I’d ask this too: I’ve though a bit about the difference between live valve and non live valve, do you know if it’s possible to install live vale shocks from 19+ models in 17’s and 18’s, or is it not possible due to programming?

 

[Oldfart]

Take it off some big jumps to make sure it's solid.

 

[smurfslayer]

As you seem to know your stuff, I figured I’d ask this too: I’ve though a bit about the difference between live valve and non live valve, do you know if it’s possible to install live vale shocks from 19+ models in 17’s and 18’s, or is it not possible due to programming?

I’ve not done this. It’s possible, but, you don’t get the integrated drive mode programming and you’d need an electronic controller - I forget the name. e-click(?).

Not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze. At least the ’17-’18 trucks don’t go into zero suspension mode when the shock sensor gets damaged
When the live valve trucks lose a sensor, the shocks turn into steel rods. Earlier ‘dumb’ shock trucks I think it was the wheel speed sensor, and you lose the drive modes IIRC

 

[harpri11]

Been looking at a 2018 raptor with 125k miles on it for $38k.Took it on a 3 day test drive and everything seems to be in great condition, besides the transmission, which most likely just needs to be flashed back to OEM. The issue is that the seller is CarMax, they don’t allow third party inspections, which was the only real way to know the truck was sound besides trusting Carmax’s inspection. Am I crazy to consider this as CarMax offers a 90 day/4000 miles warranty?

Thoughts?

Update: I just learned that the Carmax extended warranty only covers up until the odometer reaches 150K miles (not an additional 150k) or 3 years. Does this still seem like a decent deal considering the warranty ranges from $2500 to $3000 depending on the deductible? This would mean the warranty would only be good for 23k miles.

 

[CleverGirl_]

Update: I just learned that the Carmax extended warranty only covers up until the odometer reaches 150K miles (not an additional 150k) or 3 years. Does this still seem like a decent deal considering the warranty ranges from $2500 to $3000 depending on the deductible? This would mean the warranty would only be good for 23k miles.

Carmax Warranties suck, do your research. Don't bet on it even if you get it.

 

[CruiserClass]

Update: I just learned that the Carmax extended warranty only covers up until the odometer reaches 150K miles (not an additional 150k) or 3 years. Does this still seem like a decent deal considering the warranty ranges from $2500 to $3000 depending on the deductible? This would mean the warranty would only be good for 23k miles.

It's as good a deal as putting the same money in a slot machine.