GEN 1 Air Conditioner Issue -

[mrwizard93]

I have been having an issue where my AC doesn't cool how it should. I have a 2012 with 74k miles. I live in Florida where it is REALLY REALLY hot in the summers and I understand that the moment I step into the truck the AC won't be ice cold and the AC needs some to work itself up to temp but this is not the case.

I took it to the dealer and they checked everything from amount of refrigerant, looked for leaks, performed pinpoint tests (whatever that means) and some other standard tests. They did change a "door mode air distribution motor" that was causing a clicking sound behind the dash when I started the truck or moved from one mode to the other but that did not solve the problem. They thought it was causing issues with some sensor but that does not seem to be the case.

I do notice that when it is somewhat working, that the AC cooling goes in and out a bit when i drive - sort of like it can't tell when to cool and when not to cool particularly when it is too hot outside. You can tell because of the humidity level in the air coming out of the vents and there is a slight increase in the temperature of the air. Not to mention that when it is 90deg outside, the air is "cold-ish" right up against the vent but only slightly cool where you sit. It takes a while for the truck to cool down to a comfortable level in the front seats and not so much in the back.

Also, the AC does seem to work at night when it is cooler. Or maybe I am now accustomed to the warmer air.

Has anyone had an issue similar to this and have a potential solution I can communicate to the dealer with when i take it in?

Any thoughts or potential ideas for a solution are appreciated.

Cesar

 

[David Godbee]

I had the same problem in my wife’s old town car. It was the temp selector not giving the controller the right signal. Changed out the controller an back to cold air. Have the dealer check it out.

 

[EricM]

I used to hate leaving my truck out in the hot sun at work then driving it home on the short commute I had. The A/C had no chance to cool the cab down in that short period of time and it seemed so weak. I changed jobs and I don't drive the truck to work anymore. It's garaged all the time now. I have no issue with the A/C now since it's always nice and cool inside the cab when I take it out of the garage.

Personally, I think Ford errored on the side of keeping the core from freezing and the A/C systems aren't as cold as they could be. I've seen quite a few cars that would freeze up during certain conditions- typically long highway drives in extremely humid air. It'd never be an issue during short drives, since there's not enough time to build up ice, and the slower speeds lead to less airflow across the condenser and hotter engine bay/firewall/air box temps, all of which lower the ultimate cooling capability of the system and prevent freezing.

There is a huge thread on F150Forums.com in the 09-14 section on how to trick the computer into thinking the air box is warmer than it really is, which makes it run the compressor more and blow colder air. You basically change the resistance in the wire coming from the air box temp sensor. Some guys use fixed resistors, some guy use adjustable pots. You risk freezing up the core if you go too far with it though. Assuming it's charged right and the compressor is OK, the system is capable of putting out *way* colder air- there is one post in that thread where someone controlled the compressor manually with a scan tool and it got vent temps below freezing, no problem.

Here's the link- it's only 1200 posts long.... https://www.f150forum.com/f38/compressor-cycling-fix-271852/

 

[Toecutter]

Dealer had mine for two months trying to figure out my AC issues. Finally a second dealer pulled the dash and found the recirculating blend door was broken. They went ahead and replaced all the doors and actuators and now my AC works great. On the plus side the previous dealer replaced all external components like the compressor, condenser, expansion block and all hoses. So I have an all new AC system in my 13 SCREW.

 

[Airzone]

Visit a car service as soon as possible. If an AC problem isn't treated right, it can cause you more severe problems that will cost you a lot of money. I had a problem with my AC not so long ago, but I thought nothing serious happened. Because I ignored the problem, I had to replace the whole AC system in my car, which cost me a lot of money. Visit https://www.socool.sg/why-is-your-aircon-leaking-or-dripping-water/ for more information.

 

[tractorpole]

My A/C would blow cold for about a minute and then warm, airflow was terrible and blend door actuators were toast.
see the post here I found a layer of dirt about 1/4 inch thick on the evaporator that was causing the compressor the "short cycle" and the humidity sensor would always think it was too wet in the hvac box and shut off the compressor clutch.
-TP
Edit: Didn't realize the OP was 2 years old...

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

Been Battling this in my Gen 1 for a while now ,some what ok while driving but come to stop and idle for a bit no bueno , so much i don't really drive in summer except in mornings . Changed txv valve first , same thing , swapped compressor with same results . Last thing is condenser have new one waiting , When i was going to do the job i saw that i was able to pull filter and disectant without removing condenser because way my front bumper is. Pulled and and installed new filter and disectant bag , filter had a lot of crap on it . Refilled some improvement still not good at 110 deg outside . Checked and cleaned evaporator was not dirty at all and New blower motor because it was making bearing noise . Leaves me still to change out condenser this winter if that don't do it . i dont know what then . My 2014 Tremor blew ice cubes and is relatively same system so i know how it supposed to be 121 deg outside would blow 43 deg out of vent driving and in high 40s idling proof in picture . My Gen 2 is good low 40s driving and upper 40s idling

 

[EricM]

Been Battling this in my Gen 1 for a while now ,some what ok while driving but come to stop and idle for a bit no bueno , so much i don't really drive in summer except in mornings . Changed txv valve first , same thing , swapped compressor with same results . Last thing is condenser have new one waiting , When i was going to do the job i saw that i was able to pull filter and disectant without removing condenser because way my front bumper is. Pulled and and installed new filter and disectant bag , filter had a lot of crap on it . Refilled some improvement still not good at 110 deg outside . Checked and cleaned evaporator was not dirty at all and New blower motor because it was making bearing noise . Leaves me still to change out condenser this winter if that don't do it . i dont know what then . My 2014 Tremor blew ice cubes and is relatively same system so i know how it supposed to be 121 deg outside would blow 43 deg out of vent driving and in high 40s idling proof in picture . My Gen 2 is good low 40s driving and upper 40s idling

Did you read my post above? A 1 cent resistor might fix all of your woes. It's worth a shot- it's easy to access the wires and do the mod, and you don't have to cut any wires.

 

[BenBB]

Did you read my post above? A 1 cent resistor might fix all of your woes. It's worth a shot- it's easy to access the wires and do the mod, and you don't have to cut any wires.

+1 @1BAD454SSv2 try the resistor mod. 121° holy fuckballs that's toasty.