GEN 2 Addressing shutter/surging and general drivability issue

[MTF]

A simple battery disconnect for 15+ minutes will clear the KAM and force a new learning cycle.
The P1674 code could have been done at Factory or the dealer when you brought it in, just guessing!!!
Using a cheap Bluetooth OBDII dongle does stuff like that also.
Also trying to read the PCM with improper equipment will also corrupt and/or throw up flags.

Anyway, I will tell you the 2010 1/2 thur 2014 PCM fuel Trim drive cycle is about 50 miles and will start all over again refreshing the adaptive tables.
The TCM part of the PCM takes about 300 miles for a full transmission drive cycle.
Now I'm not saying the 2017 & 2018 is exactly the same but I would guess Ford kept that strategy the same in the software.

Flashing a the PCM with a Tune doesn't always reset everything the KAM is keeping.
It's always good practice to do a battery disconnect so nothing is left over.

Also when you press the MPG reset you actually are resetting some of the learned tables.
Just some FYI

 

[Smokeshow60]

A simple battery disconnect for 15+ minutes will clear the KAM and force a new learning cycle.
The P1674 code could have been done at Factory or the dealer when you brought it in, just guessing!!!
Using a cheap Bluetooth OBDII dongle does stuff like that also.
Also trying to read the PCM with improper equipment will also corrupt and/or throw up flags.

Anyway, I will tell you the 2010 1/2 thur 2014 PCM fuel Trim drive cycle is about 50 miles and will start all over again refreshing the adaptive tables.
The TCM part of the PCM takes about 300 miles for a full transmission drive cycle.
Now I'm not saying the 2017 & 2018 is exactly the same but I would guess Ford kept that strategy the same in the software.

Flashing a the PCM with a Tune doesn't always reset everything the KAM is keeping.
It's always good practice to do a battery disconnect so nothing is left over.

Also when you press the MPG reset you actually are resetting some of the learned tables.
Just some FYI

1. Multiple battery disconnect attempts tried and failed.
2.no bluetooth dongle or improper equipment used. Unless you consider ids improper. (Ford doesn't think so)
3. Never actually flashed a tune , just pulled stock files out of pcm

 

[MTF]

Battery disconnect is only to clear the KAM.
Having the P1674 error code certainly made the PCM not work correctly.
You stated you flash the MPT Tune, I'm I mistaken?

And anything can happen when plugging into the OBDII port. Just saying.
I've seen Ford techs screw up a factory reflash right in front of me.

 

[Smokeshow60]

I agree. And understand everything you've stated and yes eventually I did flash a tune but only weeks after these initial problems were solved . Which happened only when i simply extracted my stock file to send off. I am familiar with most of the older stuff out there and well versed with diesel systems but the point I'm trying to get at is that in the process of exporting stock files this particular truck must do a more in-depth reset than I've been able too do otherwise. I don't know really. Just know I tried everything and prior to that and for some reason weather it's the way the computer has to compile files in order to export them or what? But after that all was good.

 

[MTF]

And I understand what your saying, hey it's fixed! That's all that counts in the end.

 

[Morn]

Hey guys,

Is this the same issue where if you lightly accelerate while going ~40 mph, it feels like a cylinder misfire or something like that? I get that mostly in 4A which I use in rain. On 2H I don't really notice it.

I took it to the dealer, and they claim they found bad spark plugs which they replaced. The comments on the receipt also state "some load change in auto4wd is normal with this system", which the guy said meant "it will do that sometime"

I think maybe it was better for a little while? But lately I've noticed it quite a bit again. If I put it in Sport and then switch to 4A, the problem stands out even more.

If I'm reading this thread correctly, should I disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and see if that helps?

Any other suggestions besides tuning it?

 

[Smokeshow60]

Hey guys,

Is this the same issue where if you lightly accelerate while going ~40 mph, it feels like a cylinder misfire or something like that? I get that mostly in 4A which I use in rain. On 2H I don't really notice it.

I took it to the dealer, and they claim they found bad spark plugs which they replaced. The comments on the receipt also state "some load change in auto4wd is normal with this system", which the guy said meant "it will do that sometime"

I think maybe it was better for a little while? But lately I've noticed it quite a bit again. If I put it in Sport and then switch to 4A, the problem stands out even more.

If I'm reading this thread correctly, should I disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and see if that helps?

Any other suggestions besides tuning it?

That won't help. Don't waste your time. Disconnect of the battery literally does nothing. Those days are gone. Memory resets need to be performed through computer interface.

 

[smurfslayer]

Hey guys,

Is this the same issue where if you lightly accelerate while going ~40 mph, it feels like a cylinder misfire or something like that? I get that mostly in 4A which I use in rain. On 2H I don't really notice it.

I took it to the dealer, and they claim they found bad spark plugs which they replaced. The comments on the receipt also state "some load change in auto4wd is normal with this system", which the guy said meant "it will do that sometime"

I think maybe it was better for a little while? But lately I've noticed it quite a bit again. If I put it in Sport and then switch to 4A, the problem stands out even more.

If I'm reading this thread correctly, should I disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and see if that helps?

Any other suggestions besides tuning it?

Are you in normal mode? if so, are you watching the gear display? what you’re describing sounds like a shift out of 10th when it really has no business being in 10th - I’ve seen my truck in 10th at a tick over 1k rpms. this downshift plus the converter unlocking can produce a kind of ‘shudder’ for lack of a better descriptor.

 

[kandewinn]

I completely forgot about this thread. After re-reading it, I too verify that the MPT tune eliminates the "A/C" shudder I would occasionally get at idle. Hell, I did not even realize it was no longer doing it until reading this again. Way To Go MPT!!!!!

BTW, been running the tune for 5 or 6K miles now. Totally forgot the truck ever shuddered at all.

 

[Morn]

Are you in normal mode? if so, are you watching the gear display? what you’re describing sounds like a shift out of 10th when it really has no business being in 10th - I’ve seen my truck in 10th at a tick over 1k rpms. this downshift plus the converter unlocking can produce a kind of ‘shudder’ for lack of a better descriptor.

This is in any gear once I'm going faster than 40mph or so. Yes this is in Normal, although I can also reproduce the issue if I put it in Sport and then switch to 4A.

It happens when you try to lightly accelerate in a situation where it doesn't feel like it should need to downshift. Think of a medium traffic situation where you want to bump up your speed just a bit. It feels like a cylinder misfire of sorts where it loses power for a tiny fraction of a second and then kicks in again. I can feel it start to happen, and I can either let off the pedal or give it more gas for it to go away. The harshest it feels is if I switch to Sport and then go to 4A.

Pretty frustrating. I want to go back to the dealer and tell them this isn't resolved just to get it documented, but I don't have a lot of confidence in them.