5.0 swap vs building the 6.2

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

BoostedToy

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2019
Posts
241
Reaction score
274
Location
Hudson, WI
It was a design flaw from Roush specifically on the 2013. The pulley orientation was changed and a FEAD cover added on the 2014 version.

After discussions with JDM and VMP, I removed the ribbed idler pulley and VMP changed the TCM tune to smooth the shifting. The transmission tune from Roush had an extremely harsh 1-2 and 2-3 gear shift. I never had another issue (>50k miles) after these updates after having three significant issues in less than 5k miles.
 

Herg

Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Posts
4
Reaction score
1
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Funny how I have never heard any feedback on the Livernois stroaker one way or another ( could be that the ridiculous price tag has scared everyone away and nobody has ever done one) could be wrong but I don’t remember Livernois addressing the weak connecting rods that don’t always hold up to the bolt on mods. I also have a stage 2 Roush (2014) the smaller pulley and the large ford performance duel throat throttle body and cooler plugs with a full custom dyno tune and I’m questioning where your getting your numbers? 590HP is an engine dyno number measured at the crank (and I don’t think it’s that much) After mods mine is 476 HP per Dyno sheet to the rear wheels and I don’t have a clue what the rear wheel number is before the mods but I do know that if the mods did nothing and the crank HP was actually 590 that’s a 19.32% drop in HP due to the drive train and with the truck weight (I think around 6600 lbs) it scoots along pretty well but it’s not going to keep up with a mustang with a coyote!
 

EricM

FRF Addict
Joined
May 11, 2016
Posts
3,554
Reaction score
3,310
Location
OHIO
Raptor R 5.2 swap?!
It's basically a 5.0L with a blower.

It'd be cheaper to sell the Gen 1 and buy the Raptor R, than it would be to buy the R engine separately, and then spend the money to do the swap.
 
OP
OP
C

Cody Templeton

FRF Addict
Joined
Oct 29, 2020
Posts
1,486
Reaction score
1,152
Location
Des Moines, IA
I’m now in a 2018 Gen II Raptor. I previously had two 2013 Raptors, one was stock, one was a Roush Stage II with a smaller blower pulley. The Gen I Roush was likely making around 625hp (was 590, but I was running a 72mm blower pulley making 9.5-10psi at near sea level). My Gen II 3.5 TT with a tuner (E85 and 91), front mount race intercooler, ID1050cc injectors and Ford GT spec spark plugs is making right around 625 hp @20.7psi.

The Gen II is considerably quicker and faster than the Roush. It weighs nearly 800 less lbs and has significant mechanical advantage with the 10-speed. If I had my druthers, I’d have a Gen II (looks over time have grown on me, but still love the Gen I aesthetically too) with a 7.3 Godzilla or 5.0 Coyote. The TT 3.5 is surprisingly quick and powerful, but the sound it makes…ugh. Also, pushing 600+hp and 20+psi on a 3.5 V6, stress per cylinder is considerably higher than on a larger displacement V8. It’s held up great so far and no significant mechanical issues, though my timing cover is leaking oil, albeit not a lot, and I have some coolant leaking from inside of the valley between the intake runners and head.

I will say this. In the 15 months I have owned the Gen II, 13 of which have been modded, I have spent at least 20x more time at WOT than on my Gen I Roush, and I owned it nearly five years. Part of me was hesitant to drive it too hard knowing the 6.2 wasn’t designed for FI from Ford. Part of it also was due to being stranded three times when my serpentine belt would get shredded and/or my belt tensioner arm would completely shear off due some poor design and tuning from Roush. I can get into that more if needed, but I didn’t have the utmost peace of mind with the Roush. It sure did sound mean though. I miss that, greatly.

I would be running a Whipple setup and not a Roush, that's for sure. I have owned 2 3.5 Ecoboosts, and again, nothing really against it besides the V8 feels more "right" in the truck. I like it just find in my Flex, but didn't enjoy it nearly as much in my 13 Limited F-150.
 

FordTechOne

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Posts
6,672
Reaction score
13,068
Location
Detroit
Harsh shift points (and they are) believe it or not is much easier on your transmission (less friction and slipping)
It really depends what’s causing the hard shifts. 6R is a clutch to clutch unit, meaning timing between one clutch releasing and the other applying is absolutely critical for transmission longevity. If one is releasing late or another is applying early, it will cause damage. The other aspect to be aware of is that some tuners just jack up line pressure, which makes it shift firmer buy can also damage pistons and mechanical components.
 

BoostedToy

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2019
Posts
241
Reaction score
274
Location
Hudson, WI
Harsh shift points (and they are) believe it or not is much easier on your transmission (less friction and slipping)
Issue wasn’t transmission longevity, it was causing drivetrain shock issues which resulted in a ratcheting effect on the tensioner and an amplified wave destroying the FEAD belt and tensioner arm. I’m well aware “soft” shifts aren’t ideal for the transmission in many cases, this is a different issue in it’s entirety.
 

mtnghost

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2024
Posts
153
Reaction score
85
Location
california
Funny how I have never heard any feedback on the Livernois stroaker one way or another ( could be that the ridiculous price tag has scared everyone away and nobody has ever done one) could be wrong but I don’t remember Livernois addressing the weak connecting rods that don’t always hold up to the bolt on mods. I also have a stage 2 Roush (2014) the smaller pulley and the large ford performance duel throat throttle body and cooler plugs with a full custom dyno tune and I’m questioning where your getting your numbers? 590HP is an engine dyno number measured at the crank (and I don’t think it’s that much) After mods mine is 476 HP per Dyno sheet to the rear wheels and I don’t have a clue what the rear wheel number is before the mods but I do know that if the mods did nothing and the crank HP was actually 590 that’s a 19.32% drop in HP due to the drive train and with the truck weight (I think around 6600 lbs) it scoots along pretty well but it’s not going to keep up with a mustang with a coyote!
Um… how do you think they got 6.6l out of a 6.2l. The rods pistons are new units. The crank cams and heads are modified factory. Only part that is stock is the block but I believe they modify that as well because they delete the oil squirters. So yes it’s expensive but they do a hell of a lot of work to the thing. Also doing a search will pull up a handful of people who have don’t the swap and love it. Getting hp numbers is impossible though. Seems they have more money than interest in what that money got them. Or perhaps the power gains were low and they were embarrassed that the ROI was not there. This is my guess. IMHO the engine is only worth it IF you go forced induction. This would yield a bomb proof 700hp monster.
 
Top