I found out the hard way that just going into 4H once in a while is not good enough to prevent the grinding and pops. I found that you must go into 4L once a month or so to keep this from happening. When you shift into 4L is when the grinding, engine reving and pops happen if it has not been shifted into 4L for some time.
4x4 popping grinding..
- Thread starter TexasWFraptor
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
I don't think I have ever put mine in 4L, lol
Dude! You should adventure more.
Nesc204
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2018
- Posts
- 395
- Reaction score
- 444
Is your off the gas pedal when ingageing or dissingageing? Must be off the gas when you do cause most of time you hear a loud bang or Grinding. Also if you don't use 4x4 much they can stick
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
I do offroad lots, just never seemed to ever have a problem with 4h and 1st gear to get me out of stuff. Not into mud or rock crawling so maybe that's why, lol.
Raptorluvin
Member
I have a 2011 (raptorless) F150 and I had the same exact issue last year. I first replaced the IWE solenoid to make sure it wasn’t just a vacuum problem. The grinding sound persisted so I had the driver side IWE actuator (pictured in a previous comment) replaced and that fixed it. I heard grinding in 2WD and 4WD which means the two gears were constantly getting damaged, so I had it fixed as soon as I could. While inspecting the part i noticed a couple of gear teeth missing and some metal shavings.
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
Welcome to the place. Introduce yourself and post a pic of your Gen1 in the "Newbie" section
Steven_Born
Active Member
Just as a FYI, I had the same thing happen on my 2014 after the 4 wheel drive failed on my 2010 which is another discussion. I switched to 4H in the 2014 and got all sorts of popping and grinding, I then tried to shift back to 2H all sorts of noise and popping. Then it switched to 2H. I tried it again this time no popping or grinding just not switching correctly, this time I could not get the truck to shift to 2H or 4H or L, it seemed to be locked in neutral. Finally it shifted to 2H. I thought that the IWE's were bad and needed to replace all of the assemble. I then tried it a 4 time and things worked without issue. I tried it a few more times and no issue. I strongly agree with early posts that we need to shift these trucks into 4WD monthly to keep things working correctly. Just my 2 cents.
SVTTrooper
Full Access Member
Wow @CoronaRaptor to the rescue on this thread haha.. well done!
As far as your issue @TexasWFraptor at this point im sure you've either found the problem or still looking things over.
I had the exact same problem last winter and had condensation in one of the lines. Pulled them while the truck sat overnight in a warm garage (my truck lives outside usually) and tested the next day and it was fine.
I ended up doing as others said and went with a RCV IWE delete kit and haven't had a single issue in the past year. My MPG went down a small bit, but im much happier knowing when I select 4WD I dont have to rely on that vacuum booster.
As far as your issue @TexasWFraptor at this point im sure you've either found the problem or still looking things over.
I had the exact same problem last winter and had condensation in one of the lines. Pulled them while the truck sat overnight in a warm garage (my truck lives outside usually) and tested the next day and it was fine.
I ended up doing as others said and went with a RCV IWE delete kit and haven't had a single issue in the past year. My MPG went down a small bit, but im much happier knowing when I select 4WD I dont have to rely on that vacuum booster.
Agree here. I also turn on the 4H every so often just to make sure I put the delete kit is still properly working.
Similar threads
