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I am considering upgrading to the BFG KO2 37s. I've read everything I can find on the forum. One of the things that is stated a lot is that you need to be on mid perch. This doesn't make sense. The bump stops for the front don't change from bottom to mid to top perch. So if you stuff the suspension on mid or top perch the tire will end up at the same place relative to the body. Mid or top perch makes it tougher to stuff, but if you stuff the perch doesn't help, unless you are a street queen. Make sense?
I am running RPG Fox 3.0 in the front which they say they set up to be about like mid perch. I am also running stock 2013 beadlock wheels. When I go off road I run pretty hard. From all I've read it I should be safe if I hammer the pinch welds and move the fender liners. Is this accurate.
So I literally read through the 53 pages of forums, and I have a few questions since I see that most of the discussion was based around when the new 37 AT's came out. I just purchased a 2011 SCREW Raptor 136,000 miles. Shocks have never been rebuilt. Fortunately I live in Northern CA, and will soon make an appointment to have them rebuilt and will definitely do mid perch and possibly flutter stack. I have stock wheels too. So if I do not plan on jumping and doing serious off roading do I really need to do the pinch weld. Since many of you have had your 37's on now for a while have you had any rub/wear problems with only mid perch no trimming and pinch weld removal?
So, I'm running mid-perch/stock wheels/stock fenders and 37" Baja TAs and on the street I'm having zero issues with rubbing even bumping over curbs, up into driveways, or over big speed bumps. Off-road however the trimming and pinch weld hammering needs to be done for sure or the tires will do the job for you the first time you stuff them.
if you have aftermarket UCAs you may have a rubbing issue with them though, there's not a lot of clearance between my tires and stock UCA.
Your rubbing issue on the uca's is a wheel offset issue. Get a wheel with a 0 offset.
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