2013 Transmission Rebuild Advice

[aj.cruz]

Hey y'all, I recently started noticing some hard shifts in low gears. One time in the past month I experienced a slip, and recently I've started getting some wicked chatter from underneath the truck that I assume is the transmission clutch packs. I'm at about 107K miles.

I think I'm going to do a full trans flush and if that doesn't fix it or it gets worse I'll just have it rebuilt.

Regarding a rebuild I have two questions:

1. I don't see anything in the forums about performance transmission upgrades/rebuild kits. Does anyone have experience with that? I figured if I was going to rebuild it, may as well beef it up with something like:
https://pbhperformance.com/shop/pbh-6r80-1000hp-rebuild-kit/
But the rebuild kits I see seem to be for the mustang and I'm not sure if that matters. Any advice?

2. Assuming the trans is rebuilt with a performance transmission kit, would that warrant a re-tune?
I ordered a JDM stage 2 kit a couple months ago, though I haven't received it yet.

I'm not terribly far from Hennessy, but before I call them I thought I'd ask the community before I ask someone with a conflict of interest.

Thanks!

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[BenBB]

Interested to see other's opinions, as far as I know a 6R80 is a 6R80 so rebuild parts and upgrades it shouldn't matter. Three things I'd do either along with the flush or with the rebuild, just FYI:
Performance Automatic or B&M dipstick:
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/aftermarket-tranny-dipstick.40552/
Saudi transmission cooler:
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/upgrading-stock-oem-trans-cooler.16255/page-14
And lead frame if it hasn't already been done:
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/leadframe.62949/

 

[aj.cruz]

Thanks. I ordered the ridiculously overpriced (I guess not if I bought it) dipstick. Mostly because I really don't want to hand pump 12 quarts of fluid ><

I suspect you're right on #1

I think I found an answer to #2 from Exedy:
#S2EX. Exedy Stage 2 6R80 Master Kit is our answer for the daily driven mustang up to 1,000 HP. This Kit has been proven time and time again in 800-1,000 HP vehicles lasting an entire season. These clutches and steels are designed to throw whatever that Coyote can throw at it. This kit was designed to be a drop in replacement for the factory clutch packs. These clutches have been tested in a 1,000 HP mustang for the last NMRA season and as you see in the teardown video below look great after an entire season of racing. It is highly recommended that you have your vehicle tune modified when using the clutches allowing you to take full advantage of this state of the art friction and steel module.

Sounds like it be ok without a retune, but to "take full advantage" I should do it.
So I'd probably just wait until I change out the catback for a full header system.

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[mpk1996]

Thanks. I ordered the ridiculously overpriced (I guess not if I bought it) dipstick. Mostly because I really don't want to hand pump 12 quarts of fluid ><

I suspect you're right on #1

I think I found an answer to #2 from Exedy:
#S2EX. Exedy Stage 2 6R80 Master Kit is our answer for the daily driven mustang up to 1,000 HP. This Kit has been proven time and time again in 800-1,000 HP vehicles lasting an entire season. These clutches and steels are designed to throw whatever that Coyote can throw at it. This kit was designed to be a drop in replacement for the factory clutch packs. These clutches have been tested in a 1,000 HP mustang for the last NMRA season and as you see in the teardown video below look great after an entire season of racing. It is highly recommended that you have your vehicle tune modified when using the clutches allowing you to take full advantage of this state of the art friction and steel module.

Sounds like it be ok without a retune, but to "take full advantage" I should do it.
So I'd probably just wait until I change out the catback for a full header system.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Did you ever have your trans rebuilt with that kit? I looked at it as well. When I talked to the guy he said that the raptor may need an extra clutch/steel. But not sure. Like you I figured if I was going to have it rebuilt might as well upgrade.

 

[wrbsti]

I just ran into some of the same issues on my 11 at about 150k

Some chatter and a hard shift 2-3 at wot, and occasional shift flare on 2-3 and 3-4 under light throttle

Was also seeing high temps under normal driving, 210 cruising at 75-80, and would regularly get to 212 under normal street driving conditions.

Did the saudi cooler and it helped with temps, but still had the hard shift and occasional flare.

Just did a pan drop and new filter and it seems to be much better now (knock on wood)

Make sure to reset KAM after the fluid/filter change, give it a chance to do a relearn with the fresh fluid. Mine shifted pretty hard for the first 20-30 miles but I went easy on it and it gets better with more miles after relearn.

Also, so save the hassle of hand pumping you can get a fluid transfer pump for about $25 on amazon, takes a few minutes to fill it up but saves the hassle of burnt knuckles!

 

[mpk1996]

I just ran into some of the same issues on my 11 at about 150k

Some chatter and a hard shift 2-3 at wot, and occasional shift flare on 2-3 and 3-4 under light throttle

Was also seeing high temps under normal driving, 210 cruising at 75-80, and would regularly get to 212 under normal street driving conditions.

Did the saudi cooler and it helped with temps, but still had the hard shift and occasional flare.

Just did a pan drop and new filter and it seems to be much better now (knock on wood)

Make sure to reset KAM after the fluid/filter change, give it a chance to do a relearn with the fresh fluid. Mine shifted pretty hard for the first 20-30 miles but I went easy on it and it gets better with more miles after relearn.

Also, so save the hassle of hand pumping you can get a fluid transfer pump for about $25 on amazon, takes a few minutes to fill it up but saves the hassle of burnt knuckles!

how do you reset the KAM?

 

[wrbsti]

how do you reset the KAM?

I believe you need a tuner like the SCT, or possibly can do with Forscan, dealer should be able to reset as well but they will likely charge.

If you use the SCT tuner without a custom tune, make sure you manually select 4.10 gears as well, it read my 2011 out as an F150 with the 6.2L and I discovered after much troubleshooting that the "stock" axle ratio on the SCT for our trucks is the 3.73 in the non Raptor models, was having weird shift points and "wrong ratio" soft code. Didnt figure it out till I put 37s on and discovered my speedo was dead on accurate, and the shift points improved greatly, did the math and 3.73 gears with 35" tires is about the same on the trans output revs as 4.10 with 37" tires. I always assumed it pulled wheel speed from the wheel, but appears to calculate speedo and trans shift points based off output shaft sensor on trans.

Are you running any tune now or stock?

 

[mpk1996]

I believe you need a tuner like the SCT, or possibly can do with Forscan, dealer should be able to reset as well but they will likely charge.

If you use the SCT tuner without a custom tune, make sure you manually select 4.10 gears as well, it read my 2011 out as an F150 with the 6.2L and I discovered after much troubleshooting that the "stock" axle ratio on the SCT for our trucks is the 3.73 in the non Raptor models, was having weird shift points and "wrong ratio" soft code. Didnt figure it out till I put 37s on and discovered my speedo was dead on accurate, and the shift points improved greatly, did the math and 3.73 gears with 35" tires is about the same on the trans output revs as 4.10 with 37" tires. I always assumed it pulled wheel speed from the wheel, but appears to calculate speedo and trans shift points based off output shaft sensor on trans.

Are you running any tune now or stock?

I have an SCT tuner. I'll give it a try. not sure what the axle ratio is. haven't had an issue though.

 

[2wrds4u]

how much would a transmission rebuild cost

 

[B E N]

Find a low mileage used unit off of some place like car-part.com. It will cost less than a rebuild and will be of OEM quality.