2013 Raptor .. hill descent and advanctrac fault also wrench light
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lol I spoke too soon... Pulling into office, hit small bump and lights popped back on. ATS, HDF, and Wrench... No SvcEngSoon light, yet. 80 and dry today, so think the moisture scapegoat is out on this one.
Going to take it home and look things over before bringing it back
Going to take it home and look things over before bringing it back
FordService
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Any news to report, Sitdown? Let me know if you decide to head back to the dealership; I'll be here to help if needed.
Crystal
Yea, it tripped Fuse76 again. Keeps blowing that at startup now.
Called the almighty Wiz about this and got a full wiring diagram sent out and multi step approach to resolving it
Plan to drop it off tomorrow or Monday . Figure I'd at least spray off the 3" of mud under the truck before I subject a tech to track down a wiring gremlin under that all. Gonna check the connections and harness at the faulted areas once cleaned off.
Thanks Crystal, Ill keep yall posted
Called the almighty Wiz about this and got a full wiring diagram sent out and multi step approach to resolving it
Plan to drop it off tomorrow or Monday . Figure I'd at least spray off the 3" of mud under the truck before I subject a tech to track down a wiring gremlin under that all. Gonna check the connections and harness at the faulted areas once cleaned off.
Thanks Crystal, Ill keep yall posted
E63
Full Access Member
Fuse box troubles - Code clearing trick
I have many thousands of miles in hard off road driving and have had my share of throwing codes and fits. Last time I was out the A/C went out and it was over 100. I was able to get the A/C working again by removing the associated fuse and re-seating it. On one trip, the fuel pump kept shutting off, I was 300 miles from home out in the boonies, on a run from Vegas to Barstow, anyway it turned out to be a loose fuse connector that controlled the fuel pump relay.
My point is check all associated fuses, tighten all suspected connectors by pushing the pins closer together with small screw driver.
Here is a trick to clear errant codes - be advised this does not help your situation if you take to the dealer to solve. One thing I do is take pictures and or videos to document the problem. My Ford dealership loves to clear these warranty problems by stating "unable to duplicate customer complaint".
OK for the trick. With the engine off and in park. turn the key from off to run(not start) and back to off about 10 to 20 times as fast as you can. When you hear the door locks engage a few times you have successfully reset the error codes.
I have many thousands of miles in hard off road driving and have had my share of throwing codes and fits. Last time I was out the A/C went out and it was over 100. I was able to get the A/C working again by removing the associated fuse and re-seating it. On one trip, the fuel pump kept shutting off, I was 300 miles from home out in the boonies, on a run from Vegas to Barstow, anyway it turned out to be a loose fuse connector that controlled the fuel pump relay.
My point is check all associated fuses, tighten all suspected connectors by pushing the pins closer together with small screw driver.
Here is a trick to clear errant codes - be advised this does not help your situation if you take to the dealer to solve. One thing I do is take pictures and or videos to document the problem. My Ford dealership loves to clear these warranty problems by stating "unable to duplicate customer complaint".
OK for the trick. With the engine off and in park. turn the key from off to run(not start) and back to off about 10 to 20 times as fast as you can. When you hear the door locks engage a few times you have successfully reset the error codes.
Great info e63! I can see how those connections could be an issue, possibly part of my problem.
Got the truck back Friday, not thrilled with the solution, but atleast it’s running w/o faults. Kinda ghetto if this is the permanent fix, but I’m assuming this was just to bring to light the shorting circuit. From the tech report below, the mass air and o2 circuits were split individually with fused jumpers. Figure this was to see which side would blow their fuse, unfortunately both have since held.
“HILL DECENT LIGHT COMES ON, RUNS ROUGH, GOES INTO LIMP MODE. CHECK OUT KEEPS BLOWING FUSE 76 20AMP BJB CHECK THE WIRES FOR A SHORT CANT FIND THE SHORT UNPLUGGED THE O2 SENSORS AND MASS AIR SENSOR CONNECTORS 140
INSTALLED FUSE JUMPERS
AND 1010 FUSE WONT BLOW PLUGGED BACK IN ONE AT A TIME FUSE DID NOT BLOW INSTALLED FUSE JUMPERS AFTER 129 TO BREAK UP THE CIRCUITS TEST DROVE NONE OF THE FUSES WILL BLOW NOW HAVE TEST DROVE MULTIPLE TIMES”
If this is the solution that would lead me to believe that circuit came underpowered from the factory. I’m not banking on that, and sadly expect to be re-addressing this issue in the not so distant future. My dealer is a good group, never hassle me, and are committed to resolving it. I just want more closure before driving halfway across the country to go play in the dirt
Got the truck back Friday, not thrilled with the solution, but atleast it’s running w/o faults. Kinda ghetto if this is the permanent fix, but I’m assuming this was just to bring to light the shorting circuit. From the tech report below, the mass air and o2 circuits were split individually with fused jumpers. Figure this was to see which side would blow their fuse, unfortunately both have since held.
“HILL DECENT LIGHT COMES ON, RUNS ROUGH, GOES INTO LIMP MODE. CHECK OUT KEEPS BLOWING FUSE 76 20AMP BJB CHECK THE WIRES FOR A SHORT CANT FIND THE SHORT UNPLUGGED THE O2 SENSORS AND MASS AIR SENSOR CONNECTORS 140
INSTALLED FUSE JUMPERS
AND 1010 FUSE WONT BLOW PLUGGED BACK IN ONE AT A TIME FUSE DID NOT BLOW INSTALLED FUSE JUMPERS AFTER 129 TO BREAK UP THE CIRCUITS TEST DROVE NONE OF THE FUSES WILL BLOW NOW HAVE TEST DROVE MULTIPLE TIMES”
If this is the solution that would lead me to believe that circuit came underpowered from the factory. I’m not banking on that, and sadly expect to be re-addressing this issue in the not so distant future. My dealer is a good group, never hassle me, and are committed to resolving it. I just want more closure before driving halfway across the country to go play in the dirt
Figure i'd update this for anyone else who may experience this...Also, couldnt hurt to check this spot on your trucks too, wiz looked at his and was worn in same spot.
So as mentioned above, the fused jumpers were added to break up the circuit and hone in on issue...
Ideally this would have tripped one of the 2 fuses during the test drives, sadly it went a week before popping. On 3rd visit, with it separated, he was able to better hone in on certain wires of the harness. So it's looking like the harness was rubbing on the firewall bolt, just before the trans tunnel. It wore thru one wire just enough for it to short. Makes sense, as all cases of the light trips were crossing RR tracks or entering driveway aprons, which could allow the harness to shift and contact.
A nipple was added to the bolt end, and harness was wrapped in insulation tape. The jumpers have since been removed and all seems good
, knock on wood
Couldn't hurt to check this spot on your trucks, maybe add the rubber nipple too.
So as mentioned above, the fused jumpers were added to break up the circuit and hone in on issue...
Ideally this would have tripped one of the 2 fuses during the test drives, sadly it went a week before popping. On 3rd visit, with it separated, he was able to better hone in on certain wires of the harness. So it's looking like the harness was rubbing on the firewall bolt, just before the trans tunnel. It wore thru one wire just enough for it to short. Makes sense, as all cases of the light trips were crossing RR tracks or entering driveway aprons, which could allow the harness to shift and contact.
A nipple was added to the bolt end, and harness was wrapped in insulation tape. The jumpers have since been removed and all seems good
, knock on wood Couldn't hurt to check this spot on your trucks, maybe add the rubber nipple too.
E63
Full Access Member
Great post up, great pics, thanks for the heads up. I will be checking mine!
I just checked mine. It is located far below the bolt. You can see the shiny part of the insulation that has seen rubbing from all the offroad up and down. I felt around the harness in that area and all felt good. Curious if you ever re-located your harness as some have?
I just checked mine. It is located far below the bolt. You can see the shiny part of the insulation that has seen rubbing from all the offroad up and down. I felt around the harness in that area and all felt good. Curious if you ever re-located your harness as some have?
Last edited:
Never relocated, as it came from factory
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