2013 Raptor - Do I have a major diff problem?

[DreamcastERA]

I hope I'm posting this in the right place!

I, of course, have developed an IWE problem. I've been hearing a rattling/grinding noise on and off at highway speeds for maybe the last 4k miles. I originally thought it was a loose bolt, and basically convinced myself o that when I found a very loose skid plate bolt. The sound was intermittent enough that I could go very long stretches without hearing it at all. When it did show up I'd go looking for something loose under the truck (I'd find a loose clamp or bolt every once in a while to throw me off) - I even had a shop try to replicate it but they could not.

Recently I noticed that my driver side CV turned when in 2WD but my passenger side did not. I noticed this while investigating a leak from the diff where the driver side CV slides into the carrier. I determined that I have adequate vacuum and that if remove the vacuum lines, the passenger side CV will also start turning.

This indicates to me that my driver side hub has been engaged (or partially engaged) for maybe 4k miles on its own in highway conditions. Which is likely related to my diff leak, which is pretty scary tbh - the shop that replaced my driver side axle seal commented that the CV seemed to have too much play in the diff; lo and behold, the new axle seal did not stop the leak. I'm taking it back to the shop that replaced the axle seal and they're gonna check to see if there's any obvious damage to the diff or wheel bearing. Im also gonna have them replace the IWE on the drivers side so I don't have to spin my potentially damaged diff all the way home.

I'll update when I learn more, but I figured I'd post this here just incase someone else comes across a similar problem - or maybe if some of y'all have had a similar issue or any advice!

 

[CoronaRaptor]

I hope I'm posting this in the right place!

I, of course, have developed an IWE problem. I've been hearing a rattling/grinding noise on and off at highway speeds for maybe the last 4k miles. I originally thought it was a loose bolt, and basically convinced myself o that when I found a very loose skid plate bolt. The sound was intermittent enough that I could go very long stretches without hearing it at all. When it did show up I'd go looking for something loose under the truck (I'd find a loose clamp or bolt every once in a while to throw me off) - I even had a shop try to replicate it but they could not.

Recently I noticed that my driver side CV turned when in 2WD but my passenger side did not. I noticed this while investigating a leak from the diff where the driver side CV slides into the carrier. I determined that I have adequate vacuum and that if remove the vacuum lines, the passenger side CV will also start turning.

This indicates to me that my driver side hub has been engaged (or partially engaged) for maybe 4k miles on its own in highway conditions. Which is likely related to my diff leak, which is pretty scary tbh - the shop that replaced my driver side axle seal commented that the CV seemed to have too much play in the diff; lo and behold, the new axle seal did not stop the leak. I'm taking it back to the shop that replaced the axle seal and they're gonna check to see if there's any obvious damage to the diff or wheel bearing. Im also gonna have them replace the IWE on the drivers side so I don't have to spin my potentially damaged diff all the way home.

I'll update when I learn more, but I figured I'd post this here just incase someone else comes across a similar problem - or maybe if some of y'all have had a similar issue or any advice!

Make sure those numbskulls put loctite on the axle nut and that it is torqued to spec. Have them perform a vacuum test on the iwe system at the same time. You don't want to go back a 3rd time. Unfortunately these days a little be of proactive knowledge shared with a mechanical shop goes a long way. Hope they fix it correctly this time. Keep us posted.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

definitely sounds like a vacuum leak. what happens when you put it in 4 wd? does the sound go away?

 

[FordTechOne]

I would be surprised if the differential is not severely worn and damaged due to only one axle being engaged. When one axle is turning and the other is not, the differential side gear on the engaged side will be spinning at wheel speed, along with the pinions. The opposite side gear remains stationary. These gears are only designed to accommodate for wheel speed differences when turning, and not for one side spinning at road speed while the other remains stationary. When the side gears wear, the axle will exhibit radial movement, which destroys the axle seal and causes an oil leak.

As far as the IWE replacement, it is critical that the Ford published service procedure be followed. I’ve seen far too many repeat repairs due to improper installation. The wheel hub nut (axle nut) must also be replaced as well, they are not reusable once removed.

 

[MFNG]

I would be surprised if the differential is not severely worn and damaged due to only one axle being engaged. When one axle is turning and the other is not, the differential side gear on the engaged side will be spinning at wheel speed, along with the pinions. The opposite side gear remains stationary. These gears are only designed to accommodate for wheel speed differences when turning, and not for one side spinning at road speed while the other remains stationary. When the side gears wear, the axle will exhibit radial movement, which destroys the axle seal and causes an oil leak.

As far as the IWE replacement, it is critical that the Ford published service procedure be followed. I’ve seen far too many repeat repairs due to improper installation. The wheel hub nut (axle nut) must also be replaced as well, they are not reusable once removed.

Or just delete it with RCV kit? It seems as though I see more IWE complaints here than complaints about broken CV’s with the RCV kit.

Am I correct that if you break a race on the CV with the delete kit your f’d and would need to tow home?

Thoughts?

 

[FordTechOne]

Or just delete it with RCV kit? It seems as though I see more IWE complaints here than complaints about broken CV’s with the RCV kit.

Am I correct that if you break a race on the CV with the delete kit your f’d and would need to tow home?

Thoughts?

Personally, I would not. The system works very well as designed, and has been for the decades since it was introduced. The intent is to reduce parasitic drag and eliminate unnecessary wear on the front driveline components. Meaning the front differential, CV axles, transfer case, and propshaft. Ford is the only OE to use that system, and I give them credit for sticking with it while everyone else has used constant engagement front axles.

Not sure what you mean regarding breaking a race on the CV axles?

 

[MFNG]

Personally, I would not. The system works very well as designed, and has been for the decades since it was introduced. The intent is to reduce parasitic drag and eliminate unnecessary wear on the front driveline components. Meaning the front differential, CV axles, transfer case, and propshaft. Ford is the only OE to use that system, and I give them credit for sticking with it while everyone else has used constant engagement front axles.

Not sure what you mean regarding breaking a race on the CV axles?

I got after it a little too hard and the bearings and ball housing around the outer end of the CV just came apart.

Apparently this is called a “race cage” that houses all the balls that go in the grooves pictured. This is a deconstructed view.

 

[FordTechOne]

View attachment 348664
I got after it a little too hard and the bearings and ball housing around the outer end of the CV just came apart.

Apparently this is called a “race cage” that houses all the balls that go in the grooves pictured. This is a deconstructed view.

Any chance the boot was leaking prior to the failure? I don’t see much grease in it.

And yes, without a way to disengage the failed driveline component, it would need to be towed.

 

[MFNG]

Any chance the boot was leaking prior to the failure? I don’t see much grease in it.

And yes, without a way to disengage the failed driveline component, it would need to be towed.

Boot might of had a leak, didn’t notice before taking it to the off road park though. last time I go into the Rock Garden…like I said I wouldn’t…but did.


Pretty sure this is when it happened. Used front camera and looked like I could make it down, turns out there was a false summit. Should have gotten out to look, or brought a spotter. Live and learn!

 

[MFNG]

Personally, I would not. The system works very well as designed, and has been for the decades since it was introduced. The intent is to reduce parasitic drag and eliminate unnecessary wear on the front driveline components. Meaning the front differential, CV axles, transfer case, and propshaft. Ford is the only OE to use that system, and I give them credit for sticking with it while everyone else has used constant engagement front axles.

Not sure what you mean regarding breaking a race on the CV axles?

FWIW: this is what I pulled out before I took the above pic. It was mangled and missing a few of the balls.

And yes I know they are all Suzuki, that’s just what the search pulled first. Looks almost the same though.