2012 Silver Crew build thread and journal

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JTRATX

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How did your bed rack perform? Any thing you would change?

Nice looking truck!

It worked very well, the only thing I'm going to add is a place to bolt the cage to the bed in the middle of the cage. As it sits it's just bolted to the F and R of the bed via the OEM bed bolts, but I noticed it flexed while off road and I don't want any more flexing.
 

Yogurt Raptor

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How do you like the Frame support? Does it include new bump stops aswell? Or does it relocate OEM bumps? Very nice work on the build thus far. Im fixing to add a build Thread to the Forum, myself. I just started adding Mods yesterday and will be doing alot more this weekend.
 
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JTRATX

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How do you like the Frame support? Does it include new bump stops aswell? Or does it relocate OEM bumps? Very nice work on the build thus far. Im fixing to add a build Thread to the Forum, myself. I just started adding Mods yesterday and will be doing alot more this weekend.

Support seemed to work well, it replaces the factory bumps and depending on what stage you buy it either comes with or without bumps. I have RPG stage 2 and I was hitting the bumps on the Raptor Run, and having them gave me the confidence that i wasn't going to do any damage to my frame. I was a bit paranoid about that as I knew I was going to run the truck as hard as I was able to with my driving skill.
If you don't plan to do any off road runs then you probably won't need the kit at all, save your $$ for other mods.
 
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JTRATX

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I’ve had the opinion that when breaking in a new vehicle that the fluids should be changed at 1500 miles, as I believe after the first 1500 miles the lubricated parts have had enough time to break in.

I have always been one to like Redline products and this truck will be no different.

So my 1500 mile break in service went as follows:

Rear diff
Front diff
Transfer case
Oil change

P/S system: drain/refill the P/S system 3X, spacing out the drain/refill intervals about 200-300 miles so the old/new fluids have enough time to mix together.

Transmission, will receive the same drain/refill procedure, but I haven’t done this yet as I’m going to buy a new transmission pan that has a drain plug so I don’t have to remove the 20-25 bolts every time I want to drop the pan. A full flush requires special equipment from an auto shop and I don’t want to go that route, so the drain/refill procedure will suffice at this time.

Rear diff:

Remove all the bolts EXCEPT for 2 bolts, then pry the diff cover off and let it drain, see how gray and metal covered the oil is, nasty..

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Clean the diff and cover completely before applying your silicone, I use the black

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Apply the silicone like this and let it sit for 10 minutes or so to get tacky, then put on the diff cover and tighten the bolts, just tighten them very loosly until you see the silicone start to squish out the side then I waited another 5 minutes and tightened another round, you don’t want to crank down on the bolts the first time or you will squish out all the silicone and have zero seal.

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Time to refill, there is a fill plug, take it out and pump in the Redline:

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Front Diff:

Remove the skid plates to gain access to the front diff:

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Now you will see the front diff, it’s located very closely to the steering rack, but when the bolts are removed it will slide out.

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Clean the diff and cover completely before applying your silicone, I use the black

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Application is exactly like the rear diff, bolt on the cover and now time to refill:

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Transfer case:


Remove the skid plate:

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See the drain and fill plugs, drain the fluid and then refill with this:

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Oil change:

Pretty self explanatory, drain the pan, remove the oil filter. For the oil filter there is a trap door on the skid plate to gain access to the oil filter, remove the 4 bolts to gain access then remove the oil filter.

I must say the Ford engineers are pretty brilliant to make a nice little drain so you don’t get oil all over the place when you remove the oil filter. Take a close look at the picture:

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