18,000 Miles = 4 Oil Pan Replaced

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jaz13

FRF Addict
Joined
Jun 15, 2017
Posts
1,401
Reaction score
837
No, you’re insecure because you can’t take fair and perfectly reasonable criticism of the truck. Heck you come into threads guns blazing when there’s talk of a potentially better truck coming.

Hey look, it's the guy who always has something to say, but never anything useful to add.

I knew there was a reason I blocked your comments a long time ago.
 

jabroni619

FRF Addict
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Posts
2,057
Reaction score
1,420
Hey look, it's the guy who always has something to say, but never anything useful to add.

I knew there was a reason I blocked your comments a long time ago.

So you finally looked in the mirror?

Block my comments all you want. Won't make you any less of a whiny child when it comes to your precious truck. Clearly I'm not the only one who thinks you're a fragile little snowflake.
 

SL75

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2019
Posts
217
Reaction score
44
Location
Toledo
Honestly, out of warranty wouldnt be that bad.

Each time the pan failed I went in, they didnt have it and had to order it, left, went back again to drop it off, then left, then went back to pick it up, then left. Also, the first time they dumped out my synthetic and dumped in regular.

So, under warranty I can make like 12 trips to the dealer for 2 plastic oil pans and lost like $60 worth of royal purple.

Out of warranty I would have bought a emtal pan and oil pick up, possibly aftermarket/better than stock for like $300, fixed it in 2 hours and been done with it.

How is warranty that much better?

Do you know if the change to metal pan is truly a few hours? I thought it was mentioned here that it was very labor intensive to change over. I don't remember cost, but at least a full day work.
 
Last edited:

xrocket21

FRF Addict
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Posts
2,521
Reaction score
1,915
Location
Maine
I'm only repeating what someone else wrote here, but they said a cross member is in the way and the engine needs to be pulled to replace the oil pan. If that's true, it is a fairly pricy repair to pay for out of pocket.

Eh

I would DIY
 
OP
OP
S

SexyAvalancheGrey

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2017
Posts
173
Reaction score
73
To drop the cross member is a pretty easy job, ask me how I know this lmao.


Btw what wound up happening, it wasn’t the oil pan this time, they left the dip stick cover on loose, oil was everywhere. They are detailing the truck for me and I should get it back tomorrow. Crossing my fingers that’s all it is.

Btw one time they forgot to fully tighten the cross member and kept getting this clunking sound when turning the wheel at slow speeds. I found that one on my own with a friend and fixed the issue lol.
 

MEATSWORD

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2019
Posts
398
Reaction score
181
Location
Arizona
Wow it seams like everyone with a plastic pan is angry lol.

If a metal pan and pick up fit. I would go that route.
Maybe get the parts and leave them for the dealership when in for reseal.:cheers:
 

df4801

FRF Addict
Joined
Nov 9, 2016
Posts
1,124
Reaction score
910
To drop the cross member is a pretty easy job, ask me how I know this lmao.


Btw what wound up happening, it wasn’t the oil pan this time, they left the dip stick cover on loose, oil was everywhere. They are detailing the truck for me and I should get it back tomorrow. Crossing my fingers that’s all it is.

Btw one time they forgot to fully tighten the cross member and kept getting this clunking sound when turning the wheel at slow speeds. I found that one on my own with a friend and fixed the issue lol.

Once again. Sounds like you need a new mechanic.
 

NASSTY

FRF Addict
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Posts
2,582
Reaction score
3,067
Location
ME
To drop the cross member is a pretty easy job, ask me how I know this lmao.


Btw what wound up happening, it wasn’t the oil pan this time, they left the dip stick cover on loose, oil was everywhere. They are detailing the truck for me and I should get it back tomorrow. Crossing my fingers that’s all it is.

Btw one time they forgot to fully tighten the cross member and kept getting this clunking sound when turning the wheel at slow speeds. I found that one on my own with a friend and fixed the issue lol.
Hopefully their detailers aren't as careless as their technicians.
 

Badgertits

FRF Addict
Joined
Jan 24, 2019
Posts
2,809
Reaction score
2,446
Location
Ma
I'm only repeating what someone else wrote here, but they said a cross member is in the way and the engine needs to be pulled to replace the oil pan. If that's true, it is a fairly pricy repair to pay for out of pocket.

I don’t see how you’d need to pull the engine, but I’m coming from mostly GM & Honda vehicle background & I do have to say- Fords are simply more difficult/less intuitive to work on IMO. Even little dumb stuff- like the fact that you essentially have to disassemble 1/2 the center console in the event you spill a beverage in order to clean the cup holders etc, in GMs bucket seat trucks you can easily pull out the rubber insert that’s wedged into the cup holders, or pull the whole assembly out w/ ease.

Changing the diff or transfer case fluid SHOULD Be a fairly easy backyard mechanic procedure to accomplish on your own- particularly on a 4x4 truck & ESPECIALLY on a self appointee super off road truck!! Nope, not an easy task on the Raptor. Astonished there’s no quick drain plug on even the rear diff- is this 1952? Am I driving a dump truck!?

The fact that they chose a ttV6 as their flagship engine for everything from a souped up sedan to a luxury suv to a off-road purpose built truck to a damn supercar underscores this lol - I like the engine, but working on it ain’t gonna happen other than an oil change for me. It should even hard to get to the dipstick/air filter/heads/plugs etc

But I digress- I have a 2018 no idea if I have a metal or composite pan only hadn’t one oil change thus far @ 5600 miles performed by dealer on their dime (first 2 on them)- I’ve noticed no leaks & checked oil around 3500 Miles & wasn’t low, although I will admit the techs neglected to put all the screws back for the oil drain plate & of course had to “order” one since they couldn’t find it & don’t have any on hand lol

I’ll be doing my own changes or having a private shop I’ve gone to for years maintain it.

Personally I got the 6 year 100k b2b extended warranty for a few reasons- the oil pan being one of them (like I said not sure if mine is or not but heard about it doing research on this & other trucks prior to purchase)- other issues I am prepared for & got the warranty just in case: sunroof leak/malfunction, tranny issues (mainly because it’s brand new & complicated), transfer case (same reasoning as tranny), 3rd brake light leak (all makes seem to have this issue but could happen), & anything random that could occur electronically since there’s so much damn tech in high end vehicles these days.

However as some may know came from owning 4 GM trucks (a trusty ‘07 & 3 problematic K2s 2x2014 & a 2015) - all makes have problems, and many deal w/ them in their own unique ways.

One thing I tend to hear “Toyota’s are reliable problem free” blah blah. First of all if you don’t maintain em that’s far from true, secondly they have their own black eyes if you research. But more importantly- when it comes to their trucks their way of dealing w/ problems/design flaws is to subtly tweak the same damn design til it’s so ******** old in the tooth not only is it no longer competitive it’s simply pitiful that someone would consider a tundra “reliable” or anything special, yeah well if ford/GM/Dodge simply over-engineered a design from 15-20 years ago & just kept pounding the same product out for a decade plus after the fact, well then yeah they ALL SHOULD have a dead nuts reliable truck- but it’s be one w/o a fully boxed frame, archaic anemic drivetrain w/ no balls requiring 4.10s to feel torquey, therefore getting terrible mpgs, while looking like dog shit, riding like horse shit, incapable of towing/hauling/performing to any degree of their competition.

My point being- you want the latest & greatest performing pickup truck w/ all the power/features & decent mpg etc you could want then Ford has to push their design/engineering teams to keep advancing/refining all the tech & hardware that makes that come to be. Sure there’s gonna Be design flaws here & there which are inherent to any product in a forward thinking progressive design phase, & there will have to be compromise in the process to keep costs in line & appease the legal/marketing teams- but by & large I think the majority of Fords products have been on the cutting edge relative to many peers & they do it at a decent price point.

I’ll wait to see how GMs new designed trucks age & I was really intrigued by the Ram in terms of ride comfort/interior fit/finish & amenaties (nervous of their reliability tho)- and in 5-6 years when its time to swap out the raptor I’ll go through the same process of researching what’s out there & trying to pick the vehicle w/ the best balance of tech/power/reliability/price.

I think people are overreacting - at the end of the day the Raptor is like any other mechanical tool- there are inconsistencies/variations in the manufacturing process even of trucks in the same build month, there are weaker parts that will fail & probably some surprisingly overly robust parts that hold up to much more abuse than intended. You may have to fix/replace a Few things along the way.

I’ll go check If I have metal pan today lol
 
Top