¡Más! Factory Upfitters & Easy Access wiring!!

[BAJASVT]

Sitdown - Excellent write up... you got my vote in the DIY poll.

Question: In reference to the OEM upfitters on the center console, each aux switch is individually fused, correct? What is pin #8 wire actually powering and what is the fuse protecting?

Also, I see in the 1/2014 revision drawing, it says to swap the 10a fuse for a 15a, but in the comments it says the original fuse is a 7.5a. I also noticed on 12/2013 revision drawing it refers to this fuse as #37, but in the comments it's called out as fuse #41.

Maybe I'm confused and these are two separate fuses, but can you please clarify?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Sitdown]

Correct, I will update it. I initially was using the 2010 schematic, which was using a 10a fuse located in spot #37. In my '12 I found it was a 7.5a in spot #41. I actUally ran it for a few weeks w/o upping that fuse and did not have issues, but I would reccomed bumping it up. Each year may vary, your basic truck manual will clarify the sjb location and fuse amp.

 

[BAJASVT]

Ok, thanks... glad I was reading things correctly, but what exactly is that fuse for? Each aux switch is individually fused and that wire isn't even the power source for the switch illumination.

Thanks again!

 

[BAJASVT]

I may have answered my own question. Each aux switch output has its own fuse and relay, but the 7.5A fused wire that supplies power to the switch block is only actually fusing power to trigger side of the four relays themselves.

Each 30A relay, when closed, only draws about 145mA (0.145A). The stock 7.5A fuse should be fine even if you're powering eight 30A relays (four OEM and four with this mod). All eight will only draw just over 1A and that would only be if you had all eight aux switches turned on.

Thanks again, Sitdown!

 

[BAJASVT]

For anyone looking to do this mod, this Hella relay box may be helpful to mount/install the four additional relays. It's supposedly waterproof, so it could be mounted under the hood or closer to the lights which would allow you to use more small gauge relay trigger wire and less larger gauge relay output wire.

NOTE: After reading some of the reviews, it appears that the relays themselves are not included in this kit and will need to be purchased separately.

 

[Sitdown]

Yes, you got it.

I'd just confirm in you glovebox manual if you have a non '12 that the all the fuse spots are the same:

Relay Fuse FYI – on my ’12, factory upfitter relays ad fuses are located in the underhood fuse box
Upfitter #1 – 30a Relay (fuse #18)
Upfitter #1 – 30a Relay (fuse #19)
Upfitter #1 – 15a Fuse (fuse #44)
Upfitter #1 – 10a Fuse (fuse #28)

*The factory upfitter switch bank is fused in the Smart Junction Box, fuse #41. It is fused at 7.5A, and since we have added a second bank we will up this fuse to 15A. Keep in mind this is just the fuse for the switch blocks themselves, not the switch sources (lights/accessories/etc)

 

[Sitdown]

For anyone looking to do this mod, this Hella relay box may be helpful to mount/install the four additional relays. It's supposedly waterproof, so it could be mounted under the hood or closer to the lights which would allow you to use more small gauge relay trigger wire and less larger gauge relay output wire.

NOTE: After reading some of the reviews, it appears that the relays themselves are not included in this kit and will need to be purchased separately.

I was using what I had in my garage at the time, there are definitely neater ways to do it using fuse/relay panels like the box above. if you made the panel longer towards the drivers side, that box could bolt on down there. the other direction it will hang too low and hit the glovebox door.

 

[Rookie]

You mentioned you used some rubber grommets to seal the in/out holes on the bottom of the forward box but I don't see any. With how it looks in the pics I'd be concerned with everything getting in there.

 

[Biggest]

Sitdown. You are a beast!

 

[Sitdown]

I initially had grommets on all of them, but once i added the additional rear lighting wires they were already pretty tightly filled up. I replaced that front rubber splash guard and used a piece of the old one as a barrier at the bottom on the box. After a couple months of crap weather and snoball, its dry as a bone in there, so not necessary depending how tight your feed holes are. May enlarge the holes for the next go, but currently its working well. Ive rotated lighting to diff switches a few times now, really helpful setup so far. When weather warms up will likely make a revised box.