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Holds up well, and as long as you don’t drive your truck, it doesn’t drone at all. I extended mine back over the axle and out the back because it was giving me a TBI driving to work everyday. And that was with a muffler and resonator prior to the turndown.

I thought that you needed to turn the oem DRL’s off when installing the Morimoto headlights.

Those Cerakote wipes go a long way.

It was more of a band-aid that let me keep driving my truck. Ultimately, I replaced both upstream O2 sensors and that, in combination with a new canister purge valve, resolved the stalling.

This should fit all OP’s requirements

That jack is pretty sweet, but I really dig the miniature living room furniture.

Clamps. Long bolt goes through a threaded aluminum block that is bolted to the rack via the circlular plate in the second pic. The bolt pushes another aluminum block up against the bottom of the bed rail. Lots of options for placement of the clamps to avoid the plastic bed cap push pin things...

The clothes don’t make the man.

It has crossbars that are not installed.

Installed a Wilco Offroad ADV rack. A few of the reasons I decided to go with this rack are: 1. They are having a 25% off sale. 2. It is aluminum. 3. I like how the tubing matches my tire carrier and bumpers. Install was pretty easy once I figured out the mounting hardware. It sits just...

There is a 2-wire connector behind the passenger side rear seat back. It has a black wire and yellow wire. The black wire runs to the defrost grid and the yellow is tapped into the grid as well to send a signal that the rear defrost is on. I unplugged the connector, leaving the rear defrost...

Bypassed my non-operational rear defrost with a jumper wire so that I can have heated mirrors again. Getting the SCAB rear seat back out is a trick, but now that I have seen how the retainer works it shouldn’t be too difficult in the future.

@badm0t0rfinger Question: Where did you get the mannequin pelvis mount for your Leitner rack? Asking for a friend…

I like how the rack ties into the supports.

It looks like a girl who does squats. I may or may not smack my truck in the bumper when I walk past.

Here’s a thought…

Idle air control is integrated into the electronic throttle body.

Yeah. I am am sure many F150 owners have been in the dark about that. Basically, the pcm needs 8 hours of uninterrupted “off” time after you replace the battery to determine the new state of charge. Otherwise, it will treat the new battery as if it’s old and charge it accordingly. This can...

I have also seen it where the u-bolts are not perfectly lined up when they are tightened and basically slip sideways under load. \o/ vs. |o|

Assuming you used new u-bolts, they probably just had a little stretch left in them. One thing you can do when installing new ones is to torque them to spec, then loosen them back up and retorque to spec. Otherwise, you just have to retorque them after driving around a couple days. Sometimes both.

Did you reset the BMS? It’s not as simple as just swapping in a new battery.

Icon 3.0’s requires that you trim the rear shock mount to prevent contact. Seems reasonable that you might need to clearance for Fox as well.

Copy. That “old chestnut” known as Fuse 27.