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It’s lower than the oem pan, I’m not sure how much, but it’s not as low as the frame cross member just in front of it, it’s not the lowest thing on the truck

I just installed the AFE pan, was very happy with it, hold 7 quarts more than oem (was the biggest increase of any after market pan I saw), it fit in no problem even with my kooks exhaust and green cats, I did it the same time I installed a B&M transmission dipstick and saudi trans cooler.

Yeah that’s probably what I’ll do, grind out the edges with a die grinder to clean metal, make a small metal patch, epoxy it in place with 3m automotive structural epoxy, then seal it all up. Just have to see which 3m epoxy would be best, I know a lot of them are stronger than the base materials...

I’m not too concerned about the coating. I’m more curious about this area. Is that the front corner of the footwell into the cab? Trying to decide how to best repair, whether to cut out an area and weld in a patch, or cut out an area and use structural automotive epoxy to attach a small patch...

I use Krud Kutter The Must for Rust, it’s primarily phosphoric acid based and reacts to neutralize any rust. https://www.rustoleum.com/-/media/1330EA1F3BDC428BAFA74897CDE13445.ashx It does a good job of stopping and surface rust I’ve seen starting then I’ve painted over it with rust oleum, this...

Looking at pictures of a truck with the fender off it would be the area I indicated with the yellow circle. Just want to figure out how best to do the repair.

I am currently cleaning the underside of my truck, applying rust inhibitor, and then coating it with cosmoline. Ive done the rust inhibitor every couple years and have kept the truck mostly rust free in the Northeast and figured adding coamoline as a coating would help as well. The area with...

Been thinking the same thing, wanting to get a set of those lights, but the mount for the 2010-2014's and the m rack have both been discontinued, if you find something out there that works to mount them let me know.

Im wondering if I should just start with geisers on low and +3s with a drop shackle that was I could always switch to mids, and take out the drip shackle in the future, unless there is a downside to running the +3 with a drip shackle with oem shocks. But I just don’t know whether SD or HD...

I currently have a 2014 raptor that I’ve installed the 700+hp whipple kit from JDM About 50,000 miles ago with factory springs on mid perch but everything else on the truck is stock. I’m about to replace the shocks with new oem but am looking on upgrading the springs at the same time. For the...

Does RPG not make any of their bumpers for the gen 1 anymore? I’ve always been wanting to get a trophy line front and race line rear at some point, but I’ve been watching and all of their bumpers have said out of stock for a long time now.

the idler pulley bolts are 18 ft-lb

Anyone else's whippled truck have trouble starting when it's very cold out. I finished my install back in march or April and we had a mild winter so it never got too cold the rest of the time and the trucks been running fine since. This morning after some snow last night while it was 25...

What he said, I did their 700+ whipple kit with headers and installed the oil pump gear at the same time when my truck was at 60K miles, now at almost 70K and all is great. Removing the oil dipstick tube was a pita, it was seized inthere good and wouldn't budge, tried PB blaster, has another...

I’ll get picks tomorrow morning, I installed the barb fitting in the same place he did in the manifold, but I used a 12v pressure sensor, I mounted it up under the plastic at the top of the firewall behind the hood, I ran the ground to the one at the passenger top firewall ( I would’ve used the...

The truck does monitor intake temp after the intercooler (iat2) and can be seen on the aero force interceptors with just the obd-II hookup, you wire in a new pin to a blank slot in the pcm plug when you install the whipple. The truck doesn’t monitor boost/vacuum pressure, i installed a pressure...

damn I ordered my gen 3 last april but only got in installed a few months ago

The gear itself was like $300, idk what a shop would charge to install, I did it myself, definitly a bit of time, have to pull all the front accessories,valve covers, timing cover, and timing chains off to remove the oil pump then reassemble it all

I just upgraded to the billet oil pump gear when I did my whipple install, definitely gives me some more peace of mine, just took a bit of time to get to it.

I wound up installing the oil pump gear when I installed my whipple, I don’t have a roush, just installed a whipple and kooks, I’m just running the same oil it originally called for

I got my parts from Jdm, they did a great job with the tune. I went with their 700hp package with the dual 65mm ford racing throttle body and 78lb/hr fuel injectors, while I was installing that I also did the livernois billet oil pump gear, kook headers and exhaust. I didn’t do the larger heat...

What are the typical iat that you want it to stay under? I’ve never had a boosted street car, I know in my drag car I try to keep them under 155 at the top end of a run

I just ordered the Moroso one too, looks like a good product, yesterday I just removed the supercharger and alternator, I used permatex indianhead shellac on the new fitting into the block and on the hose onto the fitting to seal it and used a stainless worm gear clamp and reassembled...

Yes I just reused the factory clamp, I just ordered some breeze worm gear hose clamps, going to have to take the blower and alternator back off to change the clamp. Hoping it’s leaking from the hose on the barb, and not where the new barb goes into the block. Don’t know how I’d fix it if that...

I don’t see any heater hoses behind the supercharger, just the one under the supercharger behind the alternator which is the new inlet/barb that was installed, I have it’s location circled on here, the two heater lines run back into the firewall to the heater core and those are dry