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With as difficult as the plugs are on this truck put them in at the narrow end of the gap spec, that will prevent you from having to redo them as long as possible. The gains from gap are really marginal, especially in something like this that is running coil per cylinder with dual flame fronts...

Easy to verify, pop the hood, remote start watch the compressor pulley. If you see it engage or disengage with the sound then you know :)

I think that clunking sound at 9 sec is just the IWE unlocking. Put it in 4wd next time you park it before you shut if off, see if it goes away on next startup.

Pick up a Viair 444c, mount it high on the frame right behind your front mud flap (if you don't have them get some), run the remote filter into the engine bay, this should keep the compressor protected pretty well. Then you can mount a 5 gallon hot dog right behind it, in my case I would just...

Region is going to effect the prices, Los Angeles or Denver are going to be higher than some micro suburb in Arkansas or Mississippi. You will be able to get a better deal if you are willing to travel.

Most stuff in engine rebuilding boils down to competent machining, paying attention (take notes, stamp parts etc.) from the moment you start disassembly, until it is back together, and most of all thorough and methodical cleaning, then keeping things clean. Everything in the bottom end has one...

Cant answer question 1, but as far as 2 goes if you are really concerned about the half inch ride height at the cab the +2 with factory blocks removed will be a good choice. Theoretically the +3 should ride better because they will have more arch, but I don't know of any side to side testing...

I like chemical guys diablo gel, I use a powerball cone to apply/scrub, let it sit while I do the next wheel then rinse. Makes doing the whole set of 4 a 10 minute job and they come out nice.

Look at the arrow on the top of the piston, it points forward. Just about every engine has this. Most aftermarket will be labeled, if you look at these the arrows have the word "front" written in them. It's more than just the valves, most pistons have the wrist pin offset, so even if the...

I think its about right, I have been considering selling mine, similar everything except its an 11 so no 801a and orange and I would be looking for around 40k. It's the "I don't really want to sell it all that much" price. If you like the truck and can afford it: jump on it. You can't be sure...

Forscan will do it.

All 6 share a common ground power (see post #4) within the harness. Chances are that ground is janky somewhere.

Wow, I need to get into the fog install business. I will gladly put pocket lights in a Raptor for $200. If you are providing brackets this job takes a skilled person about 45 minutes and $10 worth of materials: $75 is fair, maybe $100 if they are doing 2 pair. The upfitters make it a fairly...

Cut that race just about all the way through, then smack the cut with a hammer and chisel until it cracks, it will slide right out, if it doesn't do the same 180° across. Fire your mobile mechanic.

North sand hills rec area is your best bet for some legal fun. You might check the Red Feather Lakes area. I haven't been up there for a while, but I remember it being dominated by dirt roads. North eastern Colorado has plenty of dirt, mostly agricultural and rural lands; Pawnee grasslands area...

Optimist.

Yeah, check your tires. Feathering, cupping, uneven wear. You can usually diagnose alignment/front end issues just by looking at tire wear. Check the bushings on the lower control arms, check the wheel bearings. Most common cause of front end clunk is sway bar end links. Just remove one...

Unless you are running with a crew that uses CB go with a UHF radio. Lots of info on it, start here: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/become-a-ham-radio-operator.11756/ Not sure what gen truck you have, post up details.

Those are your bump stops. If you never off road the truck they are probably fine. They won't effect anything, they are just a semi compressible sleeve that rides over the shock shaft. If you bottom out your front end you could do some pretty serious damage though.

I am not sure what's involved in this conversion but check your grounds. If there was a ground you had to add try again, if it uses the factory ground disassemble it, sand the area to bare shiny metal and reassemble.

Check your tie rod ends. Jack up one of the front corners enough to get the tire off the ground, grab the wheel at 3 and 9 clock and try to move it side to side. Now grab at 12 and 6 o'clock, try to move them in and out. If you get play at 3/9 and none at 12/6 you have bad tie rods, If you get...

Also, stick a set of load range c tires on it when you are due for replacement, the stock gen 2 BFG specs will be great for a road truck.

Do those use an external driver to power/switch the lights? If so I would be looking at that driver.

Lift isn't required. Get a good quality transmission jack and go to town. You may not even have to jack up the raptor to do it.

I don't know about better. There are a lot of options out there, I am not sure someone has done a side by side comparison or in vehicle testing on them. Either option does something similar, increases spring arch, increases leaf count, changes the rate, and gets rid of the rear block. They are...