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@BSRKNU-big scotty What setting do you have the reservoirs on? My fronts are currently on the softest setting, but after driving it for a bit I think I need to dial it up a notch or two. Seems to float just a tad too much.

Looks great! Run it for a bit. If the front springs settle, it’s no big deal to adjust the collars to achieve the stance that looks best to you.

The coilovers don’t have anything to do with alignment other than if you change their ride height, you’ll affect the alignment. Alignment is set on these rigs with the tie-rods (toe) and lower control arm (camber/caster). Aftermarket upper control arms can add additional adjustability. There...

Coilovers don’t work that way. The spring is captured by the shock body and top mount. If you were to remove the top nut on the shock stud while still in the vehicle the spring would shove the lower control arm down so tight that you would not be able to remove anything. Not to mention that...

@BSRKNU-big scotty Have you checked to see whether your IWE’s are disengaging the front hubs properly? Also, I’d be curious to see your CV angles. My Icon 3.0’s have my CV’s at a decently steep angle, but everything seems ok so far. Been using 4wd a bit lately due to snow, so I will take...

Are these miles all in 4wd or just 200 miles of normal driving?

Wish he had made that video a couple months ago. Would have saved me some $$.

I zip-tied mine up so that it goes around the cab mount where it meets the body.

Just trying to ease your mind. On mine you can clearly see the damaged loom and where the wires were kinked. A couple wires had been repaired by a previous owner. I repaired a couple more.

I’ve seen a lot of F-Series trucks stolen over the years. Damage is always door locks/handles and ignition. However, there are plenty of threads about relocating that section of frame harness due to damage from road debris, snow/ice accumulation, and off road damage. Here’s a shot of mine...

Are you sure that your tire didn’t get into the harness on a hard left turn? Mine has clear rub damage in the same location.

Guessing your truck didn’t have a rake to it after that reverse leveling kit?

Wow! You’re not messing around.

Check you cv axles for play/damage.

I normally go with Ford Parts Giant. I was being impatient and it burned me. Fortunately it’s Prime. The old one is working fine for now. Thanks for the input Gents.

Amazon. Could be a counterfeit for sure. The little element that is usually red colored is black on this one. I already set up the return. Fool me once…

Just gotta keep the red arrow in the white line and you are good. Guessing North Bend area?

I installed a new MAF sensor (Motorcraft) in my 2012 the other night. The next day I drove it to work (30 miles) without issue. It sat in the parking garage for 10 hours and when I left the garage, the check engine light came on. It didn’t seem to be running any different, so I drive home...

I was under the truck looking for the source of a new clunk and discovered that the exhaust joint between the y-pipe and resonator/muffler section was loose. Tightened it up, took it for a test drive, and wouldn’t you know it? The exhaust is noticeably quieter under the cab. Weird how that...

Happens with age… Hopefully, it never lasted more than 4-hours because that can result in long term damage.

Do you know if you have the older Mechatronic 6R80? Pretty sure the newer version came in the 2011’s.

These are the oval style. https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/plug-6270213-1?pdp=y#/collapseRelated3

Like these? Sorry. Not Raptor specific. https://www.mcmaster.com/panel-plugs/sealing-panel-plugs/ Below are Ford parts. Not sure what size you need, but these are for the floor pan sized holes. 18mm...

It appears that the tire is cut all along where I circled. I would replace it if that’s the case.