All day, twice on Sunday. I’m down in Rochester. It was Rochester Auto Care
322 37th St NE, Rochester, MN 55906
(507) 322-6622
https://goo.gl/maps/YspZcXdf9HNDNHSq5
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Front shield U nut
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-front-shield-u-nut-w717634s439/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9YnVtcGVyLWFuZC1jb21wb25lbnRzLWZyb250Jmk9TVUwNzYyMzUmcj0xNCZhPWZvcmQmbz1mLTE1MCZ5PTIwMTkmdD1yYXB0b3ImZT0zLTVsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D
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#MeToo.
An automobile is a terrible stage for sound perfection. The BO system (yes I get the irony) sounds just fine. Most of us are running around with .mp3 at 128kbps. Beefing up the sound system is the equivalent of an 80 year old women getting a boob job.
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I was wondering the same thing. Near as I can tell the FCC regulates certain frequency bands, ie CB, MURS, FRS etc to certain power outputs usually .5, 2 and 5 watts or so (might be a 10 watts in there somewhere) amongst other things. The transmitters are certified by the FCC as well. So...
Hmm. Check the positive connection and make sure it’s solid.
Try the chassis if you can’t find anything wrong with the positive.
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It’s probably your ground for the lights. Either pick a new spot or clean off the metal a little more.
It could also be a loose connection either positive or negative rattling around.
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You shouldn’t have to program them. As soon as the wheel spins the sensor “work”.
Here is the one I ordered for my spare. No programming just put the tire on and drive. The truck saw it right away.
Motorcraft TPMS35 Tpms Sensor Kit, 1 Pack...
Excellent.. that’s what i was thinking but i just lacked the knowledge.
I fly for a living, so messing around with the feds is not something I’m willing to risk and I’m kind of a stick in the mud for regulations since that is my livelihood.
Ill get my technician license and just have more...
Do most runs use the MURS bands? Are you guys putting the HAM radios (by HAM I mean the frequency ranges that require a technician or higher) for more solo overlanding stuff or are there runs that require the HAM stuff?
I kind of want to put an ICOM 4100 in but wondering if it is complete...
Mine has settled about 1/4 inch after 500 miles of highway driving.
Still rides great. No clunking.
Now I need new leafs and a bump stop....
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So, dumb question. Is there any place that is doing an exchange program for 2019 and up live valve shock rebuilds?
I’m not due, just planning ahead.
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I think the limp mode thing comes from the ABS sensor getting damaged to the point it’s sending incorrect data and the truck freaks out.
Keeping it Dirty Off-road on YouTube had a whole thing a bit it with his 2018.
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This.
Mine does exactly the same thing. Only when the trans is cold and under light power. If the trans is cold and I’m in 3rd and give it a bit of gas it just skips 4th and goes to 5th with no hesitation.
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Is the AFE side mounted exhaust any good?
I’m leaning towards the stainless works dump exhaust or that AFE side mounted.
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Gotcha. I ask because I don’t race other than normal dunking around on gravel roads. I’ve always driven with one hand but I’ve never been to the edge of envelope and need to manipulate the gears like you describe.
In short, I ask out of complete ignorance.
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Is it necessary/best practice to have both hands on the wheel?
I ask because the +/- buttons on the gear shift would seem “handier”??
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Here’s my ‘19 with Eibachs. Brought the front end up almost exactly 2”.
I’ve only got a couple hundred miles on them ( f you Kung Flu) but the ride is slightly improved and no clunking.
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