You guys are way over estimating how much a timing chain wears. They are not problematic on these engines. If you want to throw money at it, by all means. But chains aren't necessary. Neither are rockers, etc.
The guides are made of plastic that is designed to be bathed in hot oil, and again...
It's all numbers brother.... Build a spreadsheet, put the prospective trucks in, and run the numbers. Haggling with the dealer is half the fun. If you don't want to play the game for a few weekends/weeks, you should expect to not score as good of a deal.
I'm very confused as to how someone who can't figure out how to find a good deal on a highly desirable vehicle is able to have a job where they can afford such a vehicle.
If left for long enough, they will get to the point where they sound like your engine has a rod knock at idle, and they will eventually fall apart. It takes some time to get to that point, and one they start knocking at idle you'll also get timing codes. But really, if you have noisy phasers...
Just put oil in it. There's nothing special about these engines. And an ext warranty company will deny your warranty claim if you don't have receipts of a licensed shop performing your oil changes anyways. However, they typically only ask for oil change records if the engine is sludged (what...
Cost, plain and simple. The way the engine comes from ford, on the factory tune, they know the majority of them will last to the goal mileage. And making the engine last to the goal mileage has a budget, so that the end price of the vehicle can be on target. Always comes down to project budget...
Black oxide is terrible for bolts exposed to the elements, it is not an anti-corrosion coating.
Get bolts from McMaster, stainless material or zinc coated steel.
People won't bat an eye at spending $2k for ceramic coat, and $200 a month on maintenance washes to keep their vehicles shiny, but then they won't bother to change their oil. And thats the people that "care" about their car.
Then I get the people that call, "the little red tea kettle light has...
Our trucks don't do that to the intake.
I love all the arm chair tech's acting like they would even know where to begin with this issue...LMAO
238* coolant will pull timing, and I'm sure MCT is plenty high by that point as well to be reducing timing (the ecu start reducing timing at 100* MCT...
Make sure the engine air filter is clean, and check for boost leaks (actually check, as in with a pressurized smoke machine).
When looking at data, you're going to want to be able to see commanded vs actual torque, and log the engine management PID's that tell you why the ECU is reducing torque...
If your valve covers are causing the issue described in the TSB, it could very well be causing the excess oil consumption. Which would be exacerbated under the higher load of towing the trailer due to working the engine harder.
The way you phrased makes it sound like you thought a "bad" tune blew it up.
As opposed to it was making more power than stock due to being tune, so it simply didn't last as long as it would have if it was stock.
+3 is 1" of lift witht he factory block removed. So you need a bumpstop kit like what sdhq sells, as the factory block is part of the bumpstop "system".
https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/17-current-ford-raptor-sdhq-built-bump-pad
HD is for hauling a load. I got the HD's on my truck because I...
True tire diameter is calculated by measuring the circumference, then calculating diameter. But they can't be supporting the weight of the vehicle.
If you look up manufacturer specs, most 37's are 36.3-36.7" tall, and 35's are 34.3-34.7"
Manley makes replacement rods and pistons.
I'm pretty sure the Livernois crank is a welded and offset ground factory crank. Their 6.6L long block is $22k, which isn't expensive enough to support a custom/low production billet or even forged crankshaft.
As @FordTechOne said, you did not fix that with sparkplugs. It's likely the solenoid stuck for a bit, and then magically unfucked itself. I would replace it preventively.
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