Your Raptor and It's Alignment

Hey guys. I just picked up my Raptor this last month. I ended up purchasing it from a dealer 450 miles from home, so it didn't take long for me to figure out the factory alignment was junk. It drifted right if I would let go of the steering wheel.

Once I got it home and made it through the work week I had it taken in to a local dealer for an alignment. When I went to pick it up, as I was getting my keys I asked for my alignment spec sheets. Of course, they didn't have them. So I figured oh well and went on my merry way. The truck now drove even worse, I had to hold the wheel left of center to track straight, and upon letting go I would drift hard right.

I took it back in, this time stressing that I wanted my steering wheel centered properly and that I wanted my spec sheet after. I was assured that I would get both this time.

Picked up the truck tonight to find that the truck tracks straight MUCH better than before, but my steering wheel is even more crooked... If I was to center my wheel at high speeds, I would go veering into the ditch/curb/unsuspecting dog walker. At least this time I got the spec sheets. Appears as if nothing was done with caster??

Brought the truck back in immediately after driving. Last chance, I want it centered. I don't see how these guys can't see for themselves how bad of a job they are doing. The dealer doesn't have its own alignment rack and are taking it to Firestone, so I know that a tech/somebody is driving it to and from. Apparently this off center isn't noticeable to some..







Note* Initial alignment sheet is the results from the first alignment... Yikes?

That steering wheel drives me nuts. Mine is the same way but apparently my knuckle is bent. Getting it replaced on Thursday and having the shop who is installing to do an alignment even though I have a lifetime one at Firestone.

Why aren't they showing your Caster??

I don't know why there are no values for caster.. It should be a good conversation piece when I call in the morning.

Another thing I don't understand is why I have to turn the wheel left of center to track straight when I have a fairly high positive thrust angle?

Edit:

Picked up the Raptor today over the noon hour so that I could test drive it before giving them the thumbs up. Truck is tracking straight with a centered steering wheel! Whoulda thunk' it would take 3 trips to the alignment rack to get a brand new vehicle that hasn't even sniffed a dirt road aligned properly.

Towerhog said:

RDFTS. Sorry I didn't see your post from July. Those specs are good with the exception of total toe. Though not horribly bad just could be better. The specs listed is also good for 3.0's.

Click to expand...

Ok so these specs are good for 3.0's:

Caster 4.0 - 4.3
Camber -0.2 - -0.4
Toe .10 - .12
Total Toe .20 - .25

But what about when you replace the UCA with aftermarket adjustable ones? I was told to make the UCA at 1/2" longer than stock but the alignment shop that did it could not get it within spec when it was set at that. So they had to have extra labor to re-adjust the UCA to stock length to get the alignment in spec.

They left me with:
LF Camber -0.1
LF Caster 3.4
LF Toe 0.12

RF Camber -0.3
RF Caster 3.7
RF Toe 0.10

Total toe 0.22
Steer Ahead 0.01

But now the UCA is hitting the 3.0's coilovers at full droop. So if I have them put it back to 1/2" again, what should the offset specs be?

RDFTS said:

Ok so these specs are good for 3.0's:

Caster 4.0 - 4.3
Camber -0.2 - -0.4
Toe .10 - .12
Total Toe .20 - .25

But what about when you replace the UCA with aftermarket adjustable ones? I was told to make the UCA at 1/2" longer than stock but the alignment shop that did it could not get it within spec when it was set at that. So they had to have extra labor to re-adjust the UCA to stock length to get the alignment in spec.

They left me with:
LF Camber -0.1
LF Caster 3.4
LF Toe 0.12

RF Camber -0.3
RF Caster 3.7
RF Toe 0.10

Total toe 0.22
Steer Ahead 0.01

But now the UCA is hitting the 3.0's coilovers at full droop. So if I have them put it back to 1/2" again, what should the offset specs be?

Click to expand...

The specs they left you at is pretty spot on to stock. The caster on the left looks a little low but nothing to worry about. In this configuration the turn-in should feel very easy (light).

If you put the UCA back out, you may be able to get the caster correct, but you will never be able to get the camber back to specs without increasing the length of your LCA. (If you increase the UCA by 1/2" then you have to have at least that and more in the adjustment for the LCA).

Towerhog said:

The specs they left you at is pretty spot on to stock. The caster on the left looks a little low but nothing to worry about. In this configuration the turn-in should feel very easy (light).



If you put the UCA back out, you may be able to get the caster correct, but you will never be able to get the camber back to specs without increasing the length of your LCA. (If you increase the UCA by 1/2" then you have to have at least that and more in the adjustment for the LCA).

Click to expand...

When they had the UCA out by 1/2" they said the max adjustment was:

LF Camber 1.5
LF Caster 3.3
LF Toe 3.44

RF Camber 0.4
RF Caster 3.9
RF Toe 3.17

Total Toe 6.61
Steer Ahead 0.14

So that's when they put the UCA back to stock length, to get the specs correct.

So did they not try hard enough?
I am really torn about the UCA and coilovers hitting. I am thinking that the UCA needs that 1/2" to clear but at a lost why things cannot align.

They can not align it because there is no adjustment left in the LCA slots. The pic below gives an idea of what Im talking about. When you reach the end, there is no more.



Since you kicked the top of the wheel out 1/2" so your UCA can clear your springs, you've gotta have that 1/2" or more of LCA adjustment. If you don't have it to start, you'll never have it.

When I did my Camburg UCA and LCA, the best the shop could do was 4.9-5.3 on the caster and .5-.8 on the camber. The truck drove ok (barely ok) and was very hard to turn because of the high caster setting. But that is all the adjustment the guy had. So I lived with it until I ripped the Camburg crap off the truck and went back to stock.

Another question you should ask is. Does it have to be a 1/2"? Can I get by with 3/8", 7/16" or a 1/4" to keep from hitting the spring. The more adjustment you take away form the top, the more adjustment you'll have at the LCA. Or,

You can go with the stock setting and use a limit strap. But if you're going back to a stock length, why not just use the stock UCA? Or a different UCA that doesn't have the spring contact problem.

In the end you have to weigh is it really worth the headache and the money to get this one part to play nice with the rest of the system? Only you know that!

I have considered the Camburg one because it is tubular so was thinking it would give me the clearance needed. But hearing you say crap makes me think twice because if I went that route, I would eventually get their LCA, so thanks. The other one I was looking at was the CST one that I saw at SDHQ. But I agree, I am about ready to put the stock UCA back on and call it quits. The UCA is not that important to me if it is causing problems.

I'm pretty sure my UCA hits my front spring on full drop as well.
Haven't had any issues.


Donate to Avery and be entered into a raffle for an awesome prize for your Raptor

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/showthread.php?p=791793

The problems I had with the Camburg 1.25" UCA was that Camburg had built more caster into the arm to help correct alignment problems with lifted vehicles, as stated on their website. It provided too much caster. And the passenger side uniball failed within 3 weeks.