First Detail - Adamized the Raptor

Wilson said:

Lol some good laughs this morning. The paint selent with detale spray puts a nice deep awesomeness at least on my blue

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Where are the pics? You know the rules by now pics or it didn't happen. Lol.

There in my profile

Looks great as usual, @TheWolf. I'll be doing a similar process soon.

Hey @TheWolf how do you like your de-ionizing spotless water system and how has it held up? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on one. I've read the reviews and they're mostly good except for the people complaining that the resin needs to be replaced too often. I'm guessing it's because they're not doing something right. Figured I'd ask you since I trust your opinion a lot more than some review on the internet. Since I keep copy catting my detailing mentor I've already bought the power washer, hoses, and cart and that's the last thing on my list I made from stalking you and just wanted to make sure it was worth it. Lol.

cbcgeneral said:

Hey @TheWolf how do you like your de-ionizing spotless water system and how has it held up? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on one. I've read the reviews and they're mostly good except for the people complaining that the resin needs to be replaced too often. I'm guessing it's because they're not doing something right. Figured I'd ask you since I trust your opinion a lot more than some review on the internet. Since I keep copy catting my detailing mentor I've already bought the power washer, hoses, and cart and that's the last thing on my list I made from stalking you and just wanted to make sure it was worth it. Lol.

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The life of the resin depends on how many gallons of water you use for each wash, and how hard your water is. Mine is not too hard, about 140 ppm. If you are interested in a DI system, first test your water and then use their tables to figure out how many gallons you will get for each resin refill. The last thing you would want to do is drop the big money on the unit only to find that the cost per wash is too high. If you don't want to buy a TDS meter to check your water hardness, you may also try to find someplace that will test a sample, like a store that sells water softeners.

TDS Meter on Amazon.


Here's a link to the info on the CR Spotless and there is a table showing the total gallons that can be made based on your hardness. The big variable is how many gallons you would use for each wash.

http://www.crspotles...ss-water-facts/

I really like the CR Spotless and use it for the entire wash during the summer, so I don't have to worry about getting water spots in the heat or sun, or trying to hurry before the wash water dries. I got about 12 complete washes out of the resin, which makes for some pretty high ongoing costs.

During this past winter, I only used the DI water for the final rinse and used regular water for the pre-rinse and with the foam cannon for washing. This worked fine as it was often overcast and cool, or just plain cold. Only using the DI water for the final rinse makes the resin last longer, lowering the cost per wash.

An important thing to remember is that you need to check to make sure the resin is still working when you finish each wash. The CR Spotless unit has a built-in TDS (total dissolved solids) meter, which will read 000 when the resin is good, which means the water has no minerals in it. When you start to see numbers on the meter, it is time to replace the resin. Checking it after each wash also lets you know if you need to completely dry the car so it does not spot. The resin could be fine at your last wash, but then start to get exhausted during the current wash. The last thing you want is to assume the filters are working, only to come back later and find water spots that have to be polished off.

Thanks @TheWolf for the info. I'm definitely getting one isince they work well. I didn't realize how bad my water was until last week when I washed my truck. I rinsed it off and just as I pulled it in the garage to dry it off I had a phone call that I had to take for work. By the time I was off the phone my truck was pretty much dry with some horrible white spots everywhere. They were so bad that Adam's Detail Spray wouldn't get them off at all. I wound up having to pull out my machine and go over the whole truck with the Paint Finishing Polish. Luckily I just did the whole paint correction process the week before so I didn't have to worry about claying it first so that was a relief since it was already about 2:00. That whole process took me 8 1/2 hours but man it was so worth it. I was able to get every single swirl mark and scratch off the truck and it looked amazing when I was done. I was so glad I came across this thread and started using Adam's products because they are so much better than the stuff I used before. I have an order coming in on Tuesday with the Liquid Paint Sealant and the Americana Wax that I can't wait to get on the truck this weekend. I'm going to post some pics when I'm done on the Adam's Forum since I joined over there too. It's funny I'm in the middle of building a new house and thanks to you I'm going there this week to run hot water to my garage before the drywaller's get there next week. Lol. My wife thinks I'm crazy with my new addiction.

@cbcgeneral it does sound like your water is hard. Glad the spots came off with the PFP. Order one of the TDS meters and test the water at your current place, and at your new house.

A trick to use when you have water on the paint from washing and can't dry fast enough, is to spray it down with the Rinseless Wash dilution (2oz RW and 14 oz distilled water). The RW will soften the minerals in the water and keep them from sticking to the paint, creating spots. Then, you can just wipe down with some more RW dilution and a towel, to remove the residue. This is also good trick to use when you get hit from someone's sprinkler, or the neighbor kid's squirt gun. Much safer than trying to dry paint that is not clean.

Hot water in the garage is awesome! It is so worth it.

What pressure washer did you end up getting?

Yea, my wife said the same things, that I was nuts and spending too much money on detailing supplies and equipment. To fix that, just get her car shined up good, inside and out. Just last weekend my wife came home from one of her friend's, and told me that the friend's husband asked her were she takes her Jeep to get detailed. BAM!

Here's a tip for spraying Tire Shine on the tires. Since just spraying the product on the applicator does not get into the tread block, I spray it directly onto the tread blocks and then use the Pro Tire Hex Grip Applicator to even it out and work it onto the portion of the tire by the wheel. To keep the product off the garage floor, I cut a piece of cardboard so it fits around the tire.









To deal with the little bit of Tire Shine overspray that gets on the wheel, I apply Quick Sealant to the wheels first, and then wipe/level it with a Microfiber Utility Towel. After letting the sealant cure out for a half-hour or so, I spray the Tire Shine and then spread it out with the Hex Grip Applicator. When I am done with all four tires, I go back with the Utility Towel and wipe any Tire Shine overspray off of the wheel. The fresh coat of sealant makes wiping off the Tire Shine overspray really easy.

After letting the cardboard dry overnight, I fold it up in thirds so it is easy to store. I have been using this piece of cardboard for about a year now and it is still holding up well.

TheWolf said:

Here's a tip for spraying Tire Shine on the tires. Since just spraying the product on the applicator does not get into the tread block, I spray it directly onto the tread blocks and then use the Pro Tire Hex Grip Applicator to even it out and work it onto the portion of the tire by the wheel. To keep the product off the garage floor, I cut a piece of cardboard so it fits around the tire.

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To deal with the little bit of Tire Shine overspray that gets on the wheel, I apply Quick Sealant to the wheels first, and then wipe/level it with a Microfiber Utility Towel. After letting the sealant cure out for a half-hour or so, I spray the Tire Shine and then spread it out with the Hex Grip Applicator. When I am done with all four tires, I go back with the Utility Towel and wipe any Tire Shine overspray off of the wheel. The fresh coat of sealant makes wiping off the Tire Shine overspray really easy.

After letting the cardboard dry overnight, I fold it up in thirds so it is easy to store. I have been using this piece of cardboard for about a year now and it is still holding up well.

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You have got to be one of the most patient people I know.

Nick@Apollo-Optics said:

You have got to be one of the most patient people I know.

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They don't call it DETAIL-ing for nuthin' lol.