KaiserM715
Kaiser Söze
So I popped my condenser while swapping out my auxiliary transmission cooler (http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f52/upgrading-stock-oem-trans-cooler-16255/index5.html#post759761). Given some timing constraints, I had to replace it rather than repair it.
Here are the parts you will need:
· Condenser: Motorcraft YJ549
· Seals: 2 x Motorcraft YF-3534 O-Ring Kit
· Recommended: new christmas tree connectors for all of the radiator shrouding
I bought the condenser locally and bought the seals online.
Tools:
· 10 mm socket – horn, hood latch, fuse box
· 10 mm wrench
· 13 mm socket (I think) – radiator bolts
· Side cutters – christmas trees, existing zip-ties
· Zip-ties
· Zip-tie gun
· Hose clamp pliers (I used this model: Bottom-line pricing on Astro Pneumatic - 9409A at ToolTopia.com)
·
A big thanks to @pirateair for hooking me up with the R&R procedure. I think the estimate is 1.5 hrs, which I find completely laughable.
· Blue – clips for fluid lines (transmission, power steering)
· Red – fasteners (horn, hood latch, power steering cooler)
· Yellow – christmas tree connectors (the fastest, easiest way is to cut them and then replace them)
· Green – push-in clips (horn wiring, hood release cable, air temp sensor)
Continued:
· Purple – fasteners (electrical fuse)
· Orange – fasteners (upper radiator mount)
· Blue – clip for power steering line
This is what it looks like when you all of that stuff disconnected and set aside:
Take note of the two refrigerant line connections on the left side. Each has a seal as well as an o-ring that were replaced with the new parts above.
Now you lean the radiator back and have to tackle the hoses to the power steering cooler integrated into the condenser (which also makes this one about $50 more than the others). The hose clamp pliers make this job MUCH, MUCH easier.
Overall, this job took me about 4-5 hrs. Not cutting the christmas trees really slowed me down and it also took some effort to get the condenser frame to the point where the condenser could be removed. Another issue to contend with is the mess that the power steering fluid makes as it is tough to do much about it as you are trying to get the condenser frame out.
Total cost was about $380, including the cost of vaccing down the system and recharging by a shop. I will try and get the other condenser fixed and sell it later.
Here are the parts you will need:
· Condenser: Motorcraft YJ549
· Seals: 2 x Motorcraft YF-3534 O-Ring Kit
· Recommended: new christmas tree connectors for all of the radiator shrouding
I bought the condenser locally and bought the seals online.
Tools:
· 10 mm socket – horn, hood latch, fuse box
· 10 mm wrench
· 13 mm socket (I think) – radiator bolts
· Side cutters – christmas trees, existing zip-ties
· Zip-ties
· Zip-tie gun
· Hose clamp pliers (I used this model: Bottom-line pricing on Astro Pneumatic - 9409A at ToolTopia.com)
·
A big thanks to @pirateair for hooking me up with the R&R procedure. I think the estimate is 1.5 hrs, which I find completely laughable.
Here are all of the things that you will need to disconnect before you can lean the radiator back:[FONT="]Removal and Installation
All vehicles
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Vehicle Jacking and Lifting.
2. Recover the refrigerant.
3. Remove the 6 upper radiator sight shield pin-type retainers and remove the upper radiator sight shield.
4. Remove the RH and LH radiator side air deflector-to-headlamp pin-type retainers.
5. Remove the 5 radiator side air deflector pin-type retainers from the condenser bracket and position the side air deflectors aside.
6. Remove the horn assembly bolt and position the horn assembly aside.
* To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
1. Remove the 4 junction box bracket bolts and position the junction box aside.
* To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
1. Remove the 4 lower radiator air deflector pin-type retainers from the condenser bracket.
1. Remove the condenser inlet fitting bolt and disconnect the fitting.
* Discard the O-ring seal and gasket seal.
* To install, tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
1. Remove the condenser outlet fitting nut and disconnect the fitting.
* Discard the O-ring seal and gasket seal.
* To install, tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
1. Detach the ambient temperature sensor pin-type retainer from the core support.
1. Detach the hood latch cable pin-type retainer from the condenser core bracket.
1. Detach the power steering cooler line clip from the top of the condenser core bracket.
1. Detach the 3 transmission cooler line pin-type retainers from the condenser bracket.
Vehicles with auxiliary transmission fluid cooler
1. Release the auxiliary transmission fluid cooler from the condenser core bracket and position aside.
All vehicles
1. NOTE: RH bolt shown, LH similar.
Remove the 2 radiator bolts.
* To install, tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
1. Using a suitable suction device, remove the power steering fluid from the fluid reservoir.
2. Release the 2 power steering fluid cooler hose clamps and disconnect the power steering cooler hoses from the condenser core.
3. NOTE: The cooling module must be positioned rearward to detach the condenser from the radiator.
NOTE: RH condenser retaining clip shown, LH similar.
Release the 2 condenser core retaining clips, lift the condenser core upward and detach it from the radiator.
1. Remove the condenser core and bracket assembly.
1. Lower the condenser core and bracket assembly to allow the top of the assembly to be tilted forward.
2. Tilt the top of the condenser core and bracket assembly forward to allow it to clear the upper radiator support.
3. Lift the condenser core and bracket assembly out of the vehicle.
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
* Install new gasket seals and O-ring seals.
* Add the correct amount of clean PAG oil to the refrigerant system. For additional information, refer to the Refrigerant Oil Adding procedure.
1. Evacuate, leak test and charge the refrigerant system.[/FONT]
· Blue – clips for fluid lines (transmission, power steering)
· Red – fasteners (horn, hood latch, power steering cooler)
· Yellow – christmas tree connectors (the fastest, easiest way is to cut them and then replace them)
· Green – push-in clips (horn wiring, hood release cable, air temp sensor)
Continued:
· Purple – fasteners (electrical fuse)
· Orange – fasteners (upper radiator mount)
· Blue – clip for power steering line
This is what it looks like when you all of that stuff disconnected and set aside:
Take note of the two refrigerant line connections on the left side. Each has a seal as well as an o-ring that were replaced with the new parts above.
Now you lean the radiator back and have to tackle the hoses to the power steering cooler integrated into the condenser (which also makes this one about $50 more than the others). The hose clamp pliers make this job MUCH, MUCH easier.
Overall, this job took me about 4-5 hrs. Not cutting the christmas trees really slowed me down and it also took some effort to get the condenser frame to the point where the condenser could be removed. Another issue to contend with is the mess that the power steering fluid makes as it is tough to do much about it as you are trying to get the condenser frame out.
Total cost was about $380, including the cost of vaccing down the system and recharging by a shop. I will try and get the other condenser fixed and sell it later.