¡Más! Factory Upfitters & Easy Access wiring!!

¡Más! Factory Upfitters & Easy Access wiring!!


Ive gotten some requests for more info on my upfitter setup, so here it is…

Like many others with light addictions I ran out of switches in short time, I wanted to add an extra bank of factory upfitters in a clean OEM looking fashion. The storage nooks beside the center stack were winners in my eyes for a location, as all they provided so far was a location for my chapstick to melt. Since the factory installed switches come fused and relayed, this would also be needed for the new switches. Also, considering that I have changed my lighting setup 3 times this year, I also decided to make things more easily accessible to change for future upgrades by adding a forward mounted wiring junction box.

So there are basically 3 individual DIYs here, should you choose to use 1, 2 or all parts in your own project.


The Plan:

** Additional factory upfitter switch bank mounted in the dash console storage nook **

** Easy access relay panel for the new upfitters switches**

** Forward mounted Easy access Junction box**


Switches1


Switches2 lit up


Relaypanel1


Relaypanel2


juncbox1


[juncbox2 with cover plastidipped]




Wiring diagrams & Templates (See end for parts list):

Complete Setup



Relay Panel Detailed



[Rely Board Template]



[Junction box bracket template]


*****************************************************






PART 1 - Relay Panel & Switch Wiring

Relay Panel

Pic Mounted


Pic exposed



Skies the limit on your panel design, I used a 16ga sheet cut to ~5.5”x13.5”. Above is a printable template should you want to use this design (Confirm the measurements on the template pages are true after printing this out). **Since you’re already cutting sheet metal, If you plan to use a forward junction box and like my location, that template is also included above (this will come into play later).

The relay panel will be bolting to the underside of your dash, behind the airbag and above the glove compartment. It is easily accessed by fully opening the glove compartment door. You will reuse two factory dash 8mm screws. The 2 outside holes on the panel plate are for the mount screw holes, the 2 inner holes are for the dash guide studs. The bend I went with is approx. 15 degrees and helps tuck the panel up further. Mock up the panel bare to confirm best fitment, I initially made my template from cardboard but this template should fit.


Cardboard installed


Card vs metal



Panel1


Panel2




*With relays, fusebox, and distribution blocks installed on panel (See diagrams above), install panel under the dash to confirm there are no clearance issues with the glove box and its typical daily contents.


Panel3



*If all is clear from glovebox door interference and your happy with how it fits, put this panel off to the side for later…



Switch Harness Wiring



Using your Ford 3U2Z14S411DLB Harness (OEM connector for the factory Upfitter switch bank), begin to label the wires. The Plastic harness connector specifies the wiring (pin) numbers. Summarized from the diagrams above:

Pin1 – Switch 1 (relay panel DistBlock 1)
Pin2 – To illumination source (Tap pin 2 [violet wire] from factory upfitter switch harness)
Pin3 – To ground (relay panel DistBlock 3)
Pin4 – NOT USED
Pin5 – Switch 2 (relay panel DistBlock 1)
Pin6 – Switch 3 (relay panel DistBlock 1)
Pin7 – Switch 4 (relay panel DistBlock 1)
Pin8 – To Key-on Power (Tap pin8 [blue wire on my ’12, ’10 Ford Schematic says white]on factory upfitter switch harness). Also at the Smart Junction Box(inside cabin fuse box), change fuse #41 from 7.5a to 15a(this is the fuse for the factory switch block itself) )

Relay Fuse FYI – on my ’12, factory upfitter relays ad fuses are located in the underhood fuse box
Upfitter #1 – 30a (fuse #18)
Upfitter #1 – 30a (fuse #19)
Upfitter #1 – 15a (fuse #44)
Upfitter #1 – 10a (fuse #28)


Labeled wires


The switch block will end up being >1ft from the panel (assuming you’re using the right side nook, if using left nook add necessary length), so extending pin 1,5,6, 7 (switches), and pin 3 (ground) another 1-2 feet should suffice, adding eyelet connectors to these ends to connect to the panel. Pin 2 & 8 sources are also fairly close as well, so extending these a few feet as well.

Extended harness



Once harness wiring has been extended, laying out the relay panel on passenger floor (or back side of glove box) worked easiest for me.

Panel on glove box door




* Fish the 4 power wires from Distblock 2 to the forward mounted junction box (or near your lighting if not using a JunctionBox), leaving some additional length is helpful. Fish the single Power wire from the Fuse Block to the + battery terminal, and single ground from DistBlock 3 to the fenderwall ground. For the consolidated Power & ground lines, I used 8awg wire and a large 200a wafer style fuse before the battery.

Tip: I fed the 8awg power line through the firewall (below the ecu foam cover), taped the source wires to it,and pull it back into the engine bay with the sources.

fished wire pics








Fished to junc box mounted


wafer fuse


[fenderwall ground pic]

*For Pin 2 & 8 on your new harness, I tapped the factory upfitter switch harness #2 & #8. Remove the switch block from center console to expose harness connector. Note the color of wires on pin # 2 & 8 (you can tap here, but continue to hear another tap location). With center console side panel removed at passenger floor, unplug the 2 grey factory harness connectors. The smaller plug contains the 2 wires needed, tap the respective color plug that you found near the switch connector. For mine, pin 2 was Violet, the illuminatioin source. Pin 8 was blue, the power source (2010 ford wiring diagram stated it was white).

switch removed, wires exposed


Connector up close



side panel removed


Harness unplugged


Harness Exposed


Since I was in there I tapped these sources with additional feeds, should I need them down the road. Not necessary though.

Harness tapped







*The factory upfitter switch bank is fused in the Smart Junction Box, fuse #41. It is fused at 7.5A, and since we have added a second bank we will up this fuse to 15A. Keep in mind this is just the fuse for the switch blocks themselves, not the switch sources (lights/accessories/etc)

[SJB fuse pics]



*Connect eyelets & slip connectors to respective distribution & fuse blocks wires. Zip tie wiring tight and snug to the panel accordingly & mount panel to the underside of the dash, securing with the factory 8mm screws

*Mount panel up

PART 2 - Dash Mounted Switches

The console removal can be another thread in itself, see end of the thread for a link to Busa’s DIY Video for dash disassembly, or PM me and I can walk you through it. I’ve had my dash apart a handful of times now for NAVTV issues.


Console Nook removal

I chose the right storage pocket for my switches, as the left side was occupied by my trailer brake. If you do not have a trailer brake, I recommend using the left side nook for your switches, as it requires less “clearancing”.



With the side console cover removed, you will need to make the switch opening. I cut the storage pocket off close to the cover base and carefully dremeled down the material until I got flush with the inside of the grey cover. Later learned an easier approach might be to carefully drill out the 2 plastic rivets, and then the pocket can be more easily removed. With the console cover opening free of the pocket, you are now able to mock up the switch block and understand how much clearancing is necessary.





Dash clearancing


With the underside dash frame exposed, you will need to make room for the switch block. With a dremel (or your preferred cutting device), begin widening the opening in the plastic dash support. Take your time and continue until your switch block will fit (my initial fitments were done without the switch block bezel on, its clips on/off).

You will eventually trim a small amount of material off the ends of the switch bezel as well, but gradually clearance this and the opening until your switch panel fits. Keep intact two square openings , as these accept the console panel clips. One is to the lower left of the switch block opening, the 2nd is below and to the right. There isn’t much additional room side to side, so grinding/cutting down gradual and evenly was my tactic.

Pics of sides cut










I excessively taped off the whole dash initially, but some final tweaks later in project without protection left me with a nick in paint. Luckily that portion of the dash is covered by one of the console covers.




While the driver’s side nook will not have this issue, my passenger side required some additional clearancing of the aluminum dash brace. Given the minimal space to get a dremel in, I choose to make a single cut, and fold a portion of the brace back to give the switches room to insert fully. I used a hammer and extension, but a dremel adapter might be less of a caveman approach. Once the switch block fits, begin to mock up the side console cover to confirm alignment. Additional steps of clearancing may be required to get the correct alignment, using just the switch bezel alone is an easier process for alignment.

Opening showing alum frame cut and bend






Once clearance and alignment is good, use your preferred plastic adhesive to glue the bezel to the console cover. My adhesive (3M ??) was slightly corrosive to the bezel plastic, so using less for the first round is recommended, to avoid glue running. I let my adhesive sit for several hours, and confirmed fitment again with just the bezel installed on the cover. Once all was good, I clipped the switch block into the switch bezel on the console cover and reinstalled all the dash components. The switch block is still easily accessible for attaching the harness, you will reach around through the glovebox and plug in your harness.


Mock up bezel on console cover


w/ switches


Final look






Pic at night







Easy Access Forward Junction Box


I probably had a hundred feet of wasted wire from previous light setups that were eventually bundled into another loom, and later cut and left. To clean/organize things up and simplify upgrades/changes down the road, I chose to add this sealed junction box up towards the front of the truck, closer to the accessories. The box is sourced off amazon, see end of thread for details.

This box can be mounted anywhere in the engine bay area, for easiest access I chose to mount mine beside the passenger headlight ( behind the rubber splash guard). I included above a template to make a bracket for holding your box, it bolts up using 2 of your factory headlight housing screws.


Bracket bare metal




Textured







Using the same type of distribution blocks as I used on the relay panel, I glued 3 in the box. 1 for the new switch block source powers (lights/accessories), 2nd for the factory switch block source powers, and 3rd is a shared ground for both switch block source grounds. The middle block is elevated higher for tiered wiring



Juncbox on bench




Shown with brackets installed






I drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the box for wiring IN & OUT, used some rubber grommets and barriers to keep elementns away from the distribution blocks

Open with first set of sources fed






Back side



Mounted open


Painted - cover



Covered box - top


Covered box






Conclusion:

Definitely a lot of work for “just a few switches”, but if you want the clean look this appeared to be the best route to me. If there is another way to save time, do something better, or more efficiently I absolutely encourage any opinions/comments/feedback.

***Disclaimer - I am not an accredited electronics installer, electrician, mechanic, dentist, or superhero. This write-up is for recreational purposes, proceed at your own risk.***

That said, if you have any questions feel free to PM me, I’m happy to help out in any way I can.




Parts Used:
*Ford Upfitter Switch Panel (PN AL3Z13D730AA Switch Assy 11 F-Series Super Duty - $60)
(AL3Z13D730AA Switch Assy 10 F150 | eBay )
*Ford Wiring Harness for Switch Panel (PN 3U2Z14S411DLB Wire Assy 10 E150 -$35)
(3U2Z14S411DLB Wire Assy 10 E250 | eBay )
*Distribution/Terminal blocks – (6)x 30a (Avail at Local Parts Store -$4ea)
( Dorman® Conduct-Tite!™ 85685 - Junction Box | O'Reilly Auto Parts )
*Fuse Block (Avail at LPS -$10)
( Cooper Bussmann/6 position ATC fuse panel (BP-15600-06-2) | Fuse and Accessories | AutoZone.com )
*Relays (Bosch Type) & Relay Socket – (4)x 30a ( Avail at LPS - $5)
*Misc sheet of alum/steel/plastic/etc for relay panel
*Misc Wire
*Eyelets & Slip connectors
*Weatherproof Junction Box (Optional - for easy access front panel)
(158mm x 90mm x 46mm Waterproof Plastic Enclosure Case DIY Junction Box - Amazon.com )


Our very own CarStereoCompany & IceCobra made a DIY video of removing the dash panels, which can be viewed here:
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f170/nav-tv-install-radio-removal-directions-21732/

I’ve had my NAVTV in and out a handful of times so am happy to guide anyone through the dash removal or again, any steps to this DIY.

Tom

I gots a idea, why dont you make these panels and sell em!

Ive had many requests, but i'd feel bad charging what i think my time is worth Im always here to guide others in making one though

Awesome write-up!

Sitdown said:

Ive had many requests, but i'd feel bad charging what i think my time is worth Im always here to guide others in making one though

Click to expand...

Great write up. I may need this soon.

Ill make you 2 for that

Great write up Tom.
Nice job!

EXCELLENT Work!


I'm an electrical engineer, and clean/meticulous wiring is one of my biggest OCD habbits and pet peeves when it comes to vehicles, you did a stellar job, especially with the writeup!

Wow. Great thread!