Phyguy
FRF Addict
I have my tried and proven Wouxun KG-UV3D that worked well at TRR, the CO meetup and other runs.
I decided to get a mobile dual band radio. I decided on the Icom ID-880H because of the removable and relocatable controller for the transceiver. I got [what I think was] a good deal on the radio so I got it even though it's more technology than I'll ever need for the truck.
The day I bought this was the day Trey decided to do a group deal on the 5120, but I decided to go with the 880 anyway.
I got a lot of ideas for the install from various people on here. I've yet to program the radio, but I got the programming cable for it and that will be the next step after the antenna is done.
Here's most of what I got:
Decided to mount the transceiver under the passenger seat, so I started with power first. Figuring out how to run the power through the firewall and to the battery (so I can use the radio when the truck is off or on) wasn't too hard. I did spend some time trying to fish the power cables through the small grommet in the middle of the picture. Don't waste your time with that as it enters the cab right behind the blower. Use the bigger grommet to the left that the loom of wires is already coming through. There is a nipple at the top of that grommet that can be cut off and the wires run through that existing hole (thanks ford. it's almost like they meant to put an extra hole in that pass through for times like these).
Here are the 20A fuses that are inline to the battery. They are protected in plastic housings, but you can take them apart and tape the ends to make passing through the firewall easier.
And here's everything all wrapped up in flex tube and routed semi-decently.
I ran the power behind and under the molding and kick plate on the passenger side. I came up under the carpet but above the padding, forced the connector under the passengers seat (that's a tight squeeze), cut a small slit in the carpet and pushed the connector through. Seemed to work great and no extra length of power cables were needed other than what came with the radio.
Power is done!!!!
Next I needed to run the phone cord looking cable from where the transceiver will be mounted to the sunglass compartment. I liked the idea of hiding the controller when not needed and got the idea from someone else on this forum. I also had experience running cables up there from the install of my dash camera and alarm system antenna.
The sunglass compartment/map light/moonroof controller fixture pops right out. Use your fingers to gently pop each corner and it falls right down. Two existing connections exist...one for the map lights and the other for the moonroof controllers. I disconnected both of those so I could pull the fixture down to figure out how to get the wire into the sunglass compartment without drilling.
Once the fixture is out, you can pop the map light unit half way out which leaves a slight gap into the sunglass compartment. I ran my controller cable through that gap and then popped the map light piece back into the fixture. Works great!!!
Here's the fixture removed with the map lights swung out a bit.
Here's the gap that goes into the sunglass compartment.
Here's the connector fished into the headliner just to get it started and then in the fixture itself.
I popped the fixture back into place. then I removed the passenger oh-shit-handle (7mm) and ran the controller cable up through the headliner as close to the moonroof as possible (trying to stay out of the way of the side curtain airbags), and then down the pillar between the passenger front and rear doors. That put the controller cable out very near where the power cable goes up through the carpet and under the seat, so I used that same path for the controller cable.
I knew I wouldn't get to the antenna today (more on that later), so I snapped everything back together and decided to mount the transceiver. I used self tapping screws to screw the mount to the floor of the cab of the truck and hooked up the transceiver. The first picture of it mounted is with the seat all the way forward. the next picture (where you can't see the unit) is with the seat all the way back. With the seat back, the unit can't be kicked (at least by my testing while sitting in the back seat).
Everything snapped back together:
Here's some shots of the controller mounted to the sunglass door (with very heavy duty velcro) and powered on. The controller actually has two very strong magnets on it to use with the supplied mounting hardware. I like this technology. If I ever decide to relocate the controller, I'll use the supplied hardware and put it somewhere near the dash.
Door closes just fine to conceal the controller.
I haven't done the antenna yet. I did the planning for it tonight and started fabricating the mounting bracket. I hope to finish that up tomorrow. I'll post pictures when I do. I got two antennas I can interchange...a shorty to use around town that doesn't scrape on my garage and a long one to use when out running with friends, etc.
I also need a mic cable extension to reach under the console over to the driver's side. I also got a small external speaker for the unit, but I don't think I'm going to use it for now. The speaker that's built into the 880 seems super loud even under the seat. Not sure how it will be with a helmet on, though.
Fun project all in all. I got the programming cable for the radio, so I'll figure out the good frequencies from Trey and others and get them programmed in.
I decided to get a mobile dual band radio. I decided on the Icom ID-880H because of the removable and relocatable controller for the transceiver. I got [what I think was] a good deal on the radio so I got it even though it's more technology than I'll ever need for the truck.
The day I bought this was the day Trey decided to do a group deal on the 5120, but I decided to go with the 880 anyway.
I got a lot of ideas for the install from various people on here. I've yet to program the radio, but I got the programming cable for it and that will be the next step after the antenna is done.
Here's most of what I got:
Decided to mount the transceiver under the passenger seat, so I started with power first. Figuring out how to run the power through the firewall and to the battery (so I can use the radio when the truck is off or on) wasn't too hard. I did spend some time trying to fish the power cables through the small grommet in the middle of the picture. Don't waste your time with that as it enters the cab right behind the blower. Use the bigger grommet to the left that the loom of wires is already coming through. There is a nipple at the top of that grommet that can be cut off and the wires run through that existing hole (thanks ford. it's almost like they meant to put an extra hole in that pass through for times like these).
Here are the 20A fuses that are inline to the battery. They are protected in plastic housings, but you can take them apart and tape the ends to make passing through the firewall easier.
And here's everything all wrapped up in flex tube and routed semi-decently.
I ran the power behind and under the molding and kick plate on the passenger side. I came up under the carpet but above the padding, forced the connector under the passengers seat (that's a tight squeeze), cut a small slit in the carpet and pushed the connector through. Seemed to work great and no extra length of power cables were needed other than what came with the radio.
Power is done!!!!
Next I needed to run the phone cord looking cable from where the transceiver will be mounted to the sunglass compartment. I liked the idea of hiding the controller when not needed and got the idea from someone else on this forum. I also had experience running cables up there from the install of my dash camera and alarm system antenna.
The sunglass compartment/map light/moonroof controller fixture pops right out. Use your fingers to gently pop each corner and it falls right down. Two existing connections exist...one for the map lights and the other for the moonroof controllers. I disconnected both of those so I could pull the fixture down to figure out how to get the wire into the sunglass compartment without drilling.
Once the fixture is out, you can pop the map light unit half way out which leaves a slight gap into the sunglass compartment. I ran my controller cable through that gap and then popped the map light piece back into the fixture. Works great!!!
Here's the fixture removed with the map lights swung out a bit.
Here's the gap that goes into the sunglass compartment.
Here's the connector fished into the headliner just to get it started and then in the fixture itself.
I popped the fixture back into place. then I removed the passenger oh-shit-handle (7mm) and ran the controller cable up through the headliner as close to the moonroof as possible (trying to stay out of the way of the side curtain airbags), and then down the pillar between the passenger front and rear doors. That put the controller cable out very near where the power cable goes up through the carpet and under the seat, so I used that same path for the controller cable.
I knew I wouldn't get to the antenna today (more on that later), so I snapped everything back together and decided to mount the transceiver. I used self tapping screws to screw the mount to the floor of the cab of the truck and hooked up the transceiver. The first picture of it mounted is with the seat all the way forward. the next picture (where you can't see the unit) is with the seat all the way back. With the seat back, the unit can't be kicked (at least by my testing while sitting in the back seat).
Everything snapped back together:
Here's some shots of the controller mounted to the sunglass door (with very heavy duty velcro) and powered on. The controller actually has two very strong magnets on it to use with the supplied mounting hardware. I like this technology. If I ever decide to relocate the controller, I'll use the supplied hardware and put it somewhere near the dash.
Door closes just fine to conceal the controller.
I haven't done the antenna yet. I did the planning for it tonight and started fabricating the mounting bracket. I hope to finish that up tomorrow. I'll post pictures when I do. I got two antennas I can interchange...a shorty to use around town that doesn't scrape on my garage and a long one to use when out running with friends, etc.
I also need a mic cable extension to reach under the console over to the driver's side. I also got a small external speaker for the unit, but I don't think I'm going to use it for now. The speaker that's built into the 880 seems super loud even under the seat. Not sure how it will be with a helmet on, though.
Fun project all in all. I got the programming cable for the radio, so I'll figure out the good frequencies from Trey and others and get them programmed in.
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