XLNDR Go Fast Overlanding Raptor

[Deleted member 17706]

So I’m looking to go to Deavers or Ikons in the rear. I want to mainting ride quality. Thinking of going to a +2.

I’ve lost clearance in the front. Any recommendations from n how to get lift on the front without losing ride quality. I think I’ve lost 1-2” up front.

Lol you lost clearance in the front because you added a ton of weight: three light bars, a steel bumper, a heavy winch, and a FMIC. The front coilovers can’t handle that.

For the front, I wouldn’t screw with Eibachs or Geisers springs. Spend the money and get the Fox Factory Series 3.0 Live Valves. Fox designs those shocks right alongside the OEM shocks on the Raptor except it has a better coilover spring to handle the weight of your bumper/gear, better cooling with the bypass reservoir, and you can adjust the dampening of the shock through a knob. Given COVID, these are tough to find in stock. https://svcoffroad.com/collections/...3-0-live-valve-internal-bypass-piggyback-pair

You know how much weight you are running in the rear? At the minimum I would do +3 HD Deavers, but probably recommend the +4 HD Deavers given your weight. This will change the ride slightly, but in a good way: it will stabilize the rear from kicking and sagging. Personally, I am going to run ICON leaf springs. You can’t go wrong with either despite what you may read on the forum.

I had the same bumper as you, but decided to sell it. I couldn’t justify the extra weight of the winch with everything else. I would love to run a winch for recovery, but probably would only use it once a year (if that). Feel free to pm if you want to talk/text on the phone. My V2 GFC will be ready in a couple of weeks. So I am getting all my stuff prepared

 

[SS308]

Ditto on the Geisers in the front. You'll gain 2" in the front easy.

 

[Sgt Beavis]

Very very nice. I went with the KBVooDoo bed rack and an iKamper XCover for my overlanding rig. Except for it's size, the Raptor is an incredible platform for overlanding.

 

[Lilla Kharn]

What are you using for the electric blanket? I haven’t found any 12v solutions I’ve liked.

 

[XLandrJP]

Sunbeam blanket from Walmart, $19.99...running off my inverter. I’ve been below freezing and 3/10 heat setting gets too hot. Current draw is modest.

 

[JHamilton]

Can you share some thoughts on the SDHQ weld on rock sliders? Would you do them again if you were doing a new build? Do they still work well as a step? Thanks! Great build!!

 

[Reaper308]

I’m running Geisers up front and Deavers +3HD’s on the rear and I’m not carrying as much weight as you when your loaded out but I do load mine up pretty heavy at times. Ride is much better with the set up. icon or Deavers will work I went the Deaver route and glad I did. Jeff at Deaver is awesome to deal with and can’t do enough to help you out.

 

[paulywood]

Nice setup! Glad to see an overland setup on a Raptor.

I have a V2 on my Tundra and love it. Been debating on getting one for my Raptor as well.

FWIW, V2 lead times are FAST now...you can order one and pickup in Feb/Mar just in time for summer camping season!

 

[vanhack]

To the original post author, I am very interested in your Renogy 50amp installation, are you able to get stable 50amps from the start battery, which is ofcourse fed by the alternator. I just installed a 50amp DCDC renogy, same as yours into a gen 3 with 2 X 100ah Lifepo4 in parrallel again renogy. I have the ignition sense wire connected to the engine bay fuse box, and confirm a 12V+ signal when ignition on and engine on for 5 minutes or more, but we thought that tap accessory was switching off. I have the bluetooth transmitter hooked up, and I can get stale 20amps, but from the renogy DC home app, I can change the amps of the charger in steps of 10, so 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 and anything above 20amps setting, the amps fluctuate, so I cam curios if you are getting the full 50amps all the time, ofcourse they will taper as the battery nears full capacity, which is what the DCDC charger is supposed to do, but my batteries were at very low, both around 20% and the amps were fluctuating.

How have your connected the ground on the renogy charger, is it to body ground near the start battery, or on the start battery negative post, have you done anything to the ford battery management systems, ie. configured it off, or disconnected the sensor.

Thus far I notice that the alternator is fluctuateing voltage, almost 0.8V at times, and when renogy charger is configured via bluetooth to charge at higher than 20amps, the amps fluctuate, I am testing this with a clamp style ammeter on the postive wire used to connect to the renogy charger, I do get too 50amps, but only for 1-2 seconds, then it drops to 0 for 5-8seconds and then again climbs rapidly too 50 for 1-2 secs at 50amps, but then drops again. Not consistent 50amps, like I have seen in other's trucks.

 

[vanhack]

To the original post author, I am very interested in your Renogy 50amp installation, are you able to get stable 50amps from the start battery, which is ofcourse fed by the alternator. I just installed a 50amp DCDC renogy, same as yours into a gen 3 with 2 X 100ah Lifepo4 in parrallel again renogy. I have the ignition sense wire connected to the engine bay fuse box, and confirm a 12V+ signal when ignition on and engine on for 5 minutes or more, but we thought that tap accessory was switching off. I have the bluetooth transmitter hooked up, and I can get stale 20amps, but from the renogy DC home app, I can change the amps of the charger in steps of 10, so 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 and anything above 20amps setting, the amps fluctuate, so I cam curios if you are getting the full 50amps all the time, ofcourse they will taper as the battery nears full capacity, which is what the DCDC charger is supposed to do, but my batteries were at very low, both around 20% and the amps were fluctuating.

How have your connected the ground on the renogy charger, is it to body ground near the start battery, or on the start battery negative post, have you done anything to the ford battery management systems, ie. configured it off, or disconnected the sensor.

Thus far I notice that the alternator is fluctuateing voltage, almost 0.8V at times, and when renogy charger is configured via bluetooth to charge at higher than 20amps, the amps fluctuate, I am testing this with a clamp style ammeter on the postive wire used to connect to the renogy charger, I do get too 50amps, but only for 1-2 seconds, then it drops to 0 for 5-8seconds and then again climbs rapidly too 50 for 1-2 secs at 50amps, but then drops again. Not consistent 50amps, like I have seen in other's trucks.

Just for the knowledge of others, we found the issue with flickering amps, was due to a faulty circuit breaker on the output of the DCDC charger connected to the battery terminal positive, this was causing the charger to think that there is no battery to charge. Replacing the circuit breaker with a ANL fuse gave us the 50amps continuos.

Also note that we managed to figure out that the FORD BMS system is used in many fords of today, and has been changing in details over the last 10 years, and Australia where the Ford Ranger is popular, has an option for the ranger to be configured on the body control module to have a higher state of charge for the start battery, default seems 80%, and also configure it to dual battery system, not sure if they mean a auxilliary battery system or 2 start batteries such as an F250 super duty, anyhow this raptor is now configured to have 90% state of charge, so charging voltage is pushed up to 14V plus, and dual batter with single sensor.