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hamster

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Thanks! Did you set the beam pattern even/level with the headlights, or how some other way at 30ft?

Appreciate it in advance :)

Here is what worked for me. My set up. Flex - outter most position (only place it will go), Flood - middle position, Spot - inner most position. Running 1.5" RPG collar and did not adjust my OEM headlights down. Using a nerf dart makes it easier, but can be done without it. I am guessing you already learned that you have to adjust the inner most light first to be able to get to the side adjustment bolts. This assumes your truck is on level ground all the way to the wall. If not, you can adjust some of your measurements.

1. Check level of truck. With low beams on, measure from ground to center of low beam light at the truck. Now measure ground to center of beam at the wall. If the same (or pretty close), then you should be level enough for this to work.

2. Set inner most light first. Turn on Spot light. Measure ground to Spot light at truck and let's say it is 24" (don't recall all my numbers). Now measure distance at the truck between the center of the two Spot lights and le't say that is 48". Now play with the adjustments until you have about the same measurements on the wall. Snug up the adjustment bolts, but do not fully tighten. I then adjusted the Spots so they were just slightly above the 24" number....like maybe +1". But I set the width between the spot beams to the same on the wall as on the truck....the appox. 48" number. Fully the adjustment bolts on the spot light....but you will notice that the lights will most likely move if not held with the other hand real good. Double check the aim of the Spots. I had to play with it a bit to get them fully tight and in the position I wanted.

3. Set center Flood light. Same basic procedure, but given they are a Flood it is harder to see a beam center. But if move lights around a little, you will notice a large almost square pattern. I centered that pattern on the center of the Floor light beam.

4. Check at night. To save you some time before doing the Flex and then having to undo / redo, wait until night and check the Spot and Flood to make sure it is what you want. Mine were just what I wanted so I was good.

5. Set outer Flex light. Used the same basic procedure as for the Spot, but set them about -1" or -2" down from the "24" inch number. I run the Flex in White during the day and wanted them down to be more fog-like and not be in anyone's eyes.

Again, this worked for me. Even used same procedure to set OnX6 bumper light.
 

ChevTillNow

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Here is what worked for me. My set up. Flex - outter most position (only place it will go), Flood - middle position, Spot - inner most position. Running 1.5" RPG collar and did not adjust my OEM headlights down. Using a nerf dart makes it easier, but can be done without it. I am guessing you already learned that you have to adjust the inner most light first to be able to get to the side adjustment bolts. This assumes your truck is on level ground all the way to the wall. If not, you can adjust some of your measurements.

1. Check level of truck. With low beams on, measure from ground to center of low beam light at the truck. Now measure ground to center of beam at the wall. If the same (or pretty close), then you should be level enough for this to work.

2. Set inner most light first. Turn on Spot light. Measure ground to Spot light at truck and let's say it is 24" (don't recall all my numbers). Now measure distance at the truck between the center of the two Spot lights and le't say that is 48". Now play with the adjustments until you have about the same measurements on the wall. Snug up the adjustment bolts, but do not fully tighten. I then adjusted the Spots so they were just slightly above the 24" number....like maybe +1". But I set the width between the spot beams to the same on the wall as on the truck....the appox. 48" number. Fully the adjustment bolts on the spot light....but you will notice that the lights will most likely move if not held with the other hand real good. Double check the aim of the Spots. I had to play with it a bit to get them fully tight and in the position I wanted.

3. Set center Flood light. Same basic procedure, but given they are a Flood it is harder to see a beam center. But if move lights around a little, you will notice a large almost square pattern. I centered that pattern on the center of the Floor light beam.

4. Check at night. To save you some time before doing the Flex and then having to undo / redo, wait until night and check the Spot and Flood to make sure it is what you want. Mine were just what I wanted so I was good.

5. Set outer Flex light. Used the same basic procedure as for the Spot, but set them about -1" or -2" down from the "24" inch number. I run the Flex in White during the day and wanted them down to be more fog-like and not be in anyone's eyes.

Again, this worked for me. Even used same procedure to set OnX6 bumper light.

Hamster this is really nice of you to do, very detailed write-up! Thanks a bunch, this will definitely help me get these dialed in.

I've got them kind of close now just by going out to a pitch black street getting out of my truck and adjusting them LOL

But I'm going to do this to dial them in and tighten them down... Again thanks!
 

smurfslayer

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Hamster’s plan is good.

What you are using the lights for is something to consider. If you’re using any of the lights as driving lights/fogs ( on with low beams ) it’s a good idea to keep the lights close to the low beam level. Also, for us folks in the oldest practicing republic, stealing freedom since 1607, only 2 can be on with the headlights on public highways.

now, if you’re setting any of them up for off road use, your aiming may not need to be as strict as with the headlight low beams.

We’re seeing more and more NoVA Raps here. we should get together.
 

Bluehinder

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I have the FRL BD kit, and the BD Onyx 6 light bar, and I used an inclinometer to set them all to 0 degrees ie, calibrated to be totally level to within 0.1 degrees. Placed the gauge on flat surface of lens surface and then adjusted.

Not that I wanted or needed that kind of precision, it was just the easiest way to set them up. amazon has several inclinometers priced between $25-50. Most instruments come pre calibrated to absolute zero. Plug and play.
 

hamster

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I have the FRL BD kit, and the BD Onyx 6 light bar, and I used an inclinometer to set them all to 0 degrees ie, calibrated to be totally level to within 0.1 degrees. Placed the gauge on flat surface of lens surface and then adjusted.

Not that I wanted or needed that kind of precision, it was just the easiest way to set them up. amazon has several inclinometers priced between $25-50. Most instruments come pre calibrated to absolute zero. Plug and play.

Good option to start for up/down, but when I first installed my spots and eyeballed the alignment it turned out both pointed left of the headlights. It was odd looking. :ROFLJest:
 

4x4TruckLEDs.com

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I just aimed them till the idiots in the Prius couldn't see :) Granted my method isn't exact science, works though
 
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