Won't shift out of 4 low

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phydough

phydough

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Amazon.com: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube: Automotive

You can pick it up at any hardware or auto parts store too.

Just undo the connector, clean/dry, pack one side with the dielectric grease and re-connect. Done.

Arizona, it's a dry heat. All desert wasteland. No water in sight. I was going to go get some photos of the plug location for you, but........it's raining.
 
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phydough

phydough

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^id like to do this mod so when it stop's raining thanks' should just to all of them.

Here you go;
12184-potato-salad-masses.jpg


I forgot that I also wrapped the hell out of the harness with waterproof tape.
 

602Raptor

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I got the dielectric grease and found the connector. I was not able to get it apart. Any tips? I can't figure out why these connectors are so damn hard to get apart.
 

Yukon Joe

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I got the dielectric grease and found the connector. I was not able to get it apart. Any tips? I can't figure out why these connectors are so damn hard to get apart.
Got to slide a small flat screw driver in along the one side with the clip. It will release the plug.

Be sure to push it back together til it clicks. Give it a test pull to be sure it is locked in. Otherwise, it will come apart while you're driving.

Yes, they are a pain.
:specialed:

@Yukon Joe :baby: :baby:
www.runraptorrun.com
 

kidkotic2001

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Hey guys/gals,

We took a trip this week to elephant butte a lot of sand. I don't recall going through any water but Iwas getting stuck in the deep sand. Put it in 4 low everything was good until I went to put it into 4h. The truck gave me the shift delay move forward when I tried I got the truck just reving and then a loud clickand the truck felt like I had just gotten hit from the back. It threw the wrench sign but then went away. This is the first time this happens. Anyone with the similar issue and what might be the issue? I'm out of warranty but I am taking it to the dealer to see what they can tell me.
 

Dblex

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I had similar issues over the weekend. I put the truck in 4 lo to crawl a loose and rutted hill and was unable to get it back to 4HI or 2wd. I would shift to neutral and move the selector to 4HI or 2wd and the drive train would stay in neutral. The display was showing the SHIFT DELAYED PULL FORWARD message and attempting to pull forward, just made the engine rev. At one point the speed-o indicated 75mph with the truck idling! I got to perfectly flat ground and was then able to get it back in 2wd. I have no wrench or any type of code being thrown and the truck seems to be fine now.

I'm hesitant to go to the dealer with out some type of code showing. Any advice?
602, you ever fix this issue? I have the exact same problem!!???
 

Ruger

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@Dblex you may not get an answer because this thread is six years old, but maybe my experience will help you. With 85,000 miles on my GEN1, my truck experienced the same kinds of failures reported here. It was a surprise to me, because I had changed the transfer case and differential fluids several times before this started to happen. I tried all kinds of things to get the system to reset, but it eventually became necessary to take it to the Ford dealership.

While diagnosing the problem the dealership managed to get the transfer case irretrievably stuck in 4Hi. They went to rather involved lengths to get it back in 2WD and failed. So they ordered me a new transfer case and told me not to exceed 50 mph until it came in. The transfer case cost me $1,155.82, labor was $540.00, and replacement bolts were $24.00 for a total of $1,719.82. I asked for and received the failed transfer case and took it home.

As I had done much more maintenance on the failed transfer case than was required, I was curious as to what caused it to fail. So I split the case, and doggone if it didn't look brand new inside. There was no metalic debris in evidence at all. Nothing. So I loaded it up in the truck and took it back to the dealership. The service manager got some tools and took it apart a little further and found the problem. There is a ring-shaped electromagnet that locks the transfer case in whatever mode you've chosen, and there was visible evidence that it had failed. The metal parts that are locked in place by that electromagnet were scored, which indicated slippage.

So the failure of my transfer case was not mechanical, it was electrical. And rebuilding the transfer case would have cost more than a whole new replacement transfer case if the parts could be made available from the manufacturer (which isn't Ford). I haven't had any trouble since.
 
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Dblex

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@Dblex you may not get an answer because this thread is six years old, but maybe my experience will help you. With 85,000 miles on my GEN1, my truck experienced the same kinds of failures reported here. It was a surprise to me, because I had changed the transfer case and differential fluids several times before this started to happen. I tried all kinds of things to get the system to reset, but it eventually became necessary to take it to the Ford dealership.

While diagnosing the problem the dealership managed to get the transfer case irretrievably stuck in 4Hi. They went to rather involved lengths to get it back in 2WD and failed. So they ordered me a new transfer case and told me not to exceed 50 mph until it came in. The transfer case cost me $1,155.82, labor was $540.00, and replacement bolts were $24.00 for a total of $1,719.82. I asked for and received the failed transfer case and took it home.

As I had done much more maintenance on the failed transfer case than was required, I was curious as to what caused it to fail. So I split the case, and doggone if it didn't look brand new inside. There was no metalic debris in evidence at all. Nothing. So I loaded it up in the truck and took it back to the dealership. The service manager got some tools and took it apart a little further and found the problem. There is a ring-shaped electromagnet that locks the transfer case in whatever mode you've chosen, and there was visible evidence that it had failed. The metal parts that are locked in place by that electromagnet were scored, which indicated slippage.

So the failure of my transfer case was not mechanical, it was electrical. And rebuilding the transfer case would have cost more than a whole new replacement transfer case if the parts could be made available from the manufacturer (which isn't Ford). I haven't had any trouble since.
Thanks for the feedback! I have a certified warranty for 4k miles so I am hoping to get this covered.
 
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