Which speakers with these old amps?

[goblues38]

Check out the thread from @goblues38 , it’s pretty good write up on the Jen Too B&o upgrade

After 5 years. Planning on refreshing the system this summer. New components up front. New coax in the doors. May and squeeze in 2 12’s instead of 10’s

 

[smurfslayer]

After 5 years. Planning on refreshing the system this summer. New components up front. New coax in the doors. May and squeeze in 2 12’s instead of 10’s

If anything, I’d go to a single behind the seat 12, but honestly it’s not a need, I already have to roll the bass back on some tracks so unless I could improve the clarity by a lot, I’m likely going to leave it alone.

I don’t think I’ve read of anyone doing rear components, I wonder if there would be any tangible benefit ?

 

[Pyro3601]

@The Car Stereo Company might have some insight for ya. He seems to know his way around audio set ups.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

@The Car Stereo Company might have some insight for ya. He seems to know his way around audio set ups.

sure, im whóred out again.....

a sound processor will improve your system a whole lot more than you think. many of my customers were/are military and have been exposed to gunfire, helicopters, explosives, etc. even they hear a substantial increase in sound quality. dont rule out what a processor can do for you.

i run rear component speakers, but it is not necessary. i have the focal flax components but they are run off the crossover that came with them. i have the focal 165 wxp in my front stage in an active setup powered by a mosconi as200.4. so i have 200 watts to each tweeter and 200 watts to each door woofer. keep in mind power loss, so probably 150watts each after all said and done. the more power gives more dynamic headroom which equals better sound quality, especially for those demanding notes that occur in music. not just hard hitting bass, but the midrange and high range need the power too. take nora jones for example, her voice is so strong and piercing, that on elevated volumes can become distorted or fluttered when she hits her high notes. basically, dont worry about too much power. as long as the crossover points are set correctly, you wont have issues. if you use a processor, you can adjust eq, curves, filters, and frequecies to your liking.

i have never been a fan of downfiring boxes. over the 24 years i have been in the car audio industry, i have seen so many subwoofers fall out of their enclosures in downfiring boxes. i have always made upfiring boxes just because the weight of the woofer is now supported by the box, rather then 8 screws in the downfiring position. generally not a noticable difference in sound when comparing the two.

if i were to use all of what you have, this is how i would do it. i would use a 4 channel for the tweeters and rear speakers. and bridge the other 4 channel for the door woofers, and then the sub amp needs no explaination. i would also lookinto the nav tv zen module. it is more expensive than the pac, but its a better piece in my opinion. either will work though.

 

[goblues38]

I don’t think I’ve read of anyone doing rear components, I wonder if there would be any tangible benefit ?

it may help for back seat passengers. It is just rear fill for the front seats. I have never asked my kids how it sounds in the back.

have not given any thought yet to what I am gonna do.....just that I am gonna do it.

 

[BHook]

@The Car Stereo Company

Thanks for taking the time to give me some advise, very much appreciated.

Your speaker selections are way out of my league, but will consider a DSP at a later date if I'm not satisfied with the sound.

Leaning towards Polk MM 6502 components for front, DB 652 for rear and dual JL Audio 10" subs under the seat.

Just don't know which two JL subs to get?

Wow, never heard of a sub dropping out of a down firing enclosure, guess I'll go up firing (Bonus - much less complicated build for the box).

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

@The Car Stereo Company

Thanks for taking the time to give me some advise, very much appreciated.

Your speaker selections are way out of my league, but will consider a DSP at a later date if I'm not satisfied with the sound.

Leaning towards Polk MM 6502 components for front, DB 652 for rear and dual JL Audio 10" subs under the seat.

Just don't know which two JL subs to get?

Wow, never heard of a sub dropping out of a down firing enclosure, guess I'll go up firing (Bonus - much less complicated build for the box).

you can fit 2 10s under the rear 2/3 side seat, but they need to be shallow. and a fiberglass box. just a basic box will do, unless you want to do all the fancy shit with led and lettering. but just about all my customers like the plain look

 

[BHook]

When you've seen a sub drop out of a down firing enclosure, was it due to the MDF failing where the screw went in? Would bolting the subs in (self-locking nuts and washers on the inside to spread the load) solve the issue?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

When you've seen a sub drop out of a down firing enclosure, was it due to the MDF failing where the screw went in? Would bolting the subs in (self-locking nuts and washers on the inside to spread the load) solve the issue?

yes. the weight, vibrations, potholes, etc all add up to wear on the mounting points. you can probably use t nuts and be ok, but i much prefer upfiring boxes.