GEN 1 Wheels Questions (Brand, offset, size)

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elMechanic

elMechanic

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Offset number is essentially a measure of how many mm from the center of the wheel to bolts mount to. The further in the negative direction you go from stock offset (which is +35) the further out your wheels/tires will stick out compared to stock. So for example, a wheel with +15 will stick out 20mm more than stock. A 0 offset will stick out 35mm from stock.

The issues you have to deal with if you go away from the stock size width and offset is primarily potential rubbing (since the wheel well was designed for stock, not your custom wheel/tire) and potentially slinging rocks/dirt/ etc down the slide of your truck. Probably others that I'm not aware of.

I see thanks for the info.
really appreciate it

and regarding the weight of those wheels
refering to their website a wheel is 29lbs, and I think the stock SVT wheel is 31.5lbs (not totally sure), so 2.5lbs per wheel = 10lbs per set, that a good reduction of weight there
 
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elMechanic

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Bad reviews I seen were:
Quality issues that's why they have no warranty.
People getting bent rims directly from the factory.

Before I get crucified. In my defense I read this online so it has to be true. I have zero experience with these rims other than window shopping.
I see .. well , I have several dealerships where I live that provide BR wheels, will definitely check if they provide any warranty, and any reviews from locals in here
 
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elMechanic

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Yes, 0 offset wheels will throw a little more dirt down the side than factory......
View attachment 163079
I see , thanks for sharing

well, a 9inch with 0 offset would mean 40.7mm poke than stock (got it from online offset calculator), hmmm .. gotta re-check it on my truck and see if thats too much of a poke or a small one (flush view) .. which I think its not a flush view haha
 

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Ok.
wheel_dimensions.jpg

Offset is how far from the centerline of the wheel they mount to the "WMS" - wheel mounting surface (brake rotor in the case of these trucks) + offset means the wheel face is further from the center line, so the wheel will stick out less. So how far a wheel sticks out from the face of the rotor is half the width of the rim, minus the offset.

Width is the distance between the two lips in the wheel for the tire to mount, not overall rim width

Backspacing is the distance between the back of the rim and the WMS

Diameter is the tire diameter the rim will take

Center bore has to match your hub bore, since this is what takes the load

Bolt pattern is the vehicle bolt pattern, raptor are 6 on 135
 
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elMechanic

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Ok.
View attachment 163128

Offset is how far from the centerline of the wheel they mount to the "WMS" - wheel mounting surface (brake rotor in the case of these trucks) + offset means the wheel face is further from the center line, so the wheel will stick out less. So how far a wheel sticks out from the face of the rotor is half the width of the rim, minus the offset.

Width is the distance between the two lips in the wheel for the tire to mount, not overall rim width

Backspacing is the distance between the back of the rim and the WMS

Diameter is the tire diameter the rim will take

Center bore has to match your hub bore, since this is what takes the load

Bolt pattern is the vehicle bolt pattern, raptor are 6 on 135
Thanks for sharing, I did a more detailed searched, and I think with a mid perch with 9” width 0-offset I will be good.

Will share once I install them


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Avoid spacers when possible.

Remember when you push the wheel out you are changing the sweep of the wheels. For instance I have stock size Duratraks on my truck (noisy garbage do not buy) with a +12mm offset and get rubbing at mid lock.

Also, the further out you push the wheels the harder things are on the wheel bearings and ball joints. Were not talking about an overnight failure or anything, but will reduce component life. The more extreme you go the worse it gets.
 

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