We have to talk about CV Axles.....

[GCATX]

When we bought our Gen 1, my nephew delivered it to TX from Ohio. It came with a brand new cv shaft with a torn up boot. It was mid perch. We put new shaft in and went back to stock height, no issues in 2 years.

 

[MTF]

There will always be a few that have issues for whatever reasons but that is not the norm.
I could say I was on mid-perch for 13 years still have original shafts and boots.
Now, I never went off-roading or drove through water that could get into the IWE if the seals were compromised.
I Never blasted down a gravel road or through brush that can damage anything underneath.

When driving in the snow I would never lock the steering and just keep doing donuts or drift in 4X4 at full throttle.
Keep in mind that turning the steering full to left or right, will put the cv joint at a greater angle then the hub going up and down.

Like I stated before the Raptor was supposed to be on mid-perch.

 

[downforce137]

I just did my buddies 2020 150 (non raptor) he would only get noise on Long drives. he did the solenoid and the check valve. didn't help. pulled a vacuum on the entire system it passed... just barely. Swopped out his IWEs. he just got back from an 8 hour road trip no noise.

That was going to be my next move but honestly I can not tell a difference from disengaged so I'm going to leave them or possibly put the deletes in..

I mean think of all the fwd cars that use CV axles all the time.. except for tree branches or cactus, there really shouldn't be a reason for boot failure other than inadequate material choices.

 

[Nesc204]

I'm at 193 thousand miles and some change on original CV axles and boots and still perfectly fine. Live in CT. Like dsiggi said, go with OEM

 

[Augster]

Are you running IWE deletes? if I have said it once. I have said it 100 times. IWE delete is not a smart decision. IMO especially on a daily driver. it is way easier to matin the IWE system. Than repair all the stuff delete can cause. I been doing mine while I rotate the tires. pull a vacuum on the entire system while you rotate. So easy
Of course it could be just a one off situation. LOL

You may have said it "100 times" but this is the first time I've read anyone stating to KEEP the IWE system. I, for one, have always been a proponet of the IWE, despite the sea of others declaring it all "junk" and to remove them entirely, even if there are no issues. It's rather a simple system of an electrically operated solenoid valve, vacuum lines, and IWE's. Sure, a failure at the most inoportune time of any of these components can make an otherwise fabulous outing a bummer, which so happened to me last year out in the desert: solenoid valve failed and stayed in the 2WD "vacuum" setting whenever powered. If I'd known at the time it was the solenoid valve, I would have simply disconected the electrical connector (or vacuum line from brake booster) to the solenoid to get the IWE's engaged into 4WD.

This the first and only time I've experienced any failure in the IWE system over the 25 years I've owned 4x4 F-150's/Raptors, but I'll still always keep my IWE's intact on current and future Ford trucks.

 

[downforce137]

You may have said it "100 times" but this is the first time I've read anyone stating to KEEP the IWE system. I, for one, have always been a proponet of the IWE, despite the sea of others declaring it all "junk" and to remove them entirely, even if there are no issues. It's rather a simple system of an electrically operated solenoid valve, vacuum lines, and IWE's. Sure, a failure at the most inoportune time of any of these components can make an otherwise fabulous outing a bummer, which so happened to me last year out in the desert: solenoid valve failed and stayed in the 2WD "vacuum" setting whenever powered. If I'd known at the time it was the solenoid valve, I would have simply disconected the electrical connector (or vacuum line from brake booster) to the solenoid to get the IWE's engaged into 4WD.

This the first and only time I've experienced any failure in the IWE system over the 25 years I've owned 4x4 F-150's/Raptors, but I'll still always keep my IWE's intact on current and future Ford trucks.

i thought the same thing, and ive had good luck over the years, but since disconnecting the connector, i havent once waited, or thought i hope the hubs are fully engaged before applying power in 4WD..

ive heard plenty of pops and bangs over the years, and ive had to replace 1 or 2 also... now, im not concerned at all when turning that knob from 2 to 4

it does not seem any different driving in 2WD with everything spinning, no NVH, no noises, no heavy steering..

time will tell, but i dont see a benefit to trucks that are being used in both on/off road situations where you might switch back and forth from 2WD to 4WD for keeping it intact...

thats where most of the IWEs are broken in my opinion...

not fully engaged, partially engaged is what is breaking them...no doubt...

 

[wrthompson45]

So I replied on another post about the cv axles and I'll post again. I just did a raptor suspension swap on my f150 (factory lca's) factory spindles, alum uppers, iwe delets, and trackmotive cv axles. Only 2weeks after installing my truck is sitting 2hrs away from my house with both cv's (both drivers and passenger sides) broke at the diff end at the same time. Not sure why or what could have happened but will update once I can find a trailer wide enough to fit on and get it home. I had no noises prior, only put in 4wd high for 5miles going over a pass while it snowed then went back to 2wd and about 15miles later... boom. I thought it was just the pass side but when I tried stock f150 wheels to try to get narrower noticed the drivers Side as well.

 

[TomDirt]

So both cv axle splined ends broke simultaneously, while you were in 2WD?
A seized up front diff might be responsible, but not in 2wd. And you'd definitely know if you were in "burnout mode".